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Thanks for the info. I understand what its doing but dont understand why i could cycle the key on and off 100 times and the pump will cycle the same everytime as if the bowls are empty. I dont see any fuel anywhere either.

Sounds like things are fine then. Now ill drive it until shes empty ( or maybe siphon) and see if the light goes on.

Totally agree and a good way to check it out is to turn the key on but leave the off/run switch in the off position so the fuel pump doesnt run ect. Then you can push the start button (of course nothing happens) but the lights still come on. Either way when "starting" mine doesnt come on at all...

I have wired up the raptor shift light directly to the 3 wring running to the tach and have no problems without any sort of fuse. The circuit itself is all ready fused. Now if you were running a direct wire to the battery for instance then you would want an inline fuse but if your just splicing...

So I have read all the numerous issues regarding fuel pumps that never stop running during the initial start up. This is my issue also. I have taken the fuel pump apart and low and behold the rubber seal that is spoken about was out of place. I replaced it and it seems to help a little??? Maybe...

I have a scenario for the pros here. I actually have a preety good grasp of electrical diagrams and such but am having issues. I am hoping I can mention them and hopefully someone has some insite. First is that there has been chat on here, and a lot of verification I see from Sean that when...

Tank still needs its wet sanding but its all mocked up with its new custom gauge cluster. Now just a little polishing and some wiring tomorrow and its all done.

Agrred with all the comments. Possibilities are really endless. I am sure a professional setup would produce better results, or at least it should. For the do it yourselfer the results are amazing though! I wouldnt put anything on my bike that didnt look professionally done. Its all about...

Basically you just use there primer (its more of an adhesion promoter) one coat. Then apply your base coat ( color of your choice but it does affect final product), use as many coats as nessasary, 1 hour between coats, then let it dry for a couple hours an you then dip it. Rinse the slim off and...

Real nice! I entered mine in a show and didnt get crap. They would much rather vote for the guy that drove his new victory off the showroom floor and took it right to the show! WTF? Nice to hear a vmax got the peoples choice over all those HDs!

Yep right in the garage.

So i just wanted to post a pic of my new tank. I did a few trial parts that came out good, so in went the tank. I think it turned out pretty well. Still needs a good clear coat and the a nice polishing but after that it should shine real nice.

I had a pretty bad looking set for both front masters. The brake fluid had really done some damage. Mine, to find out only really affected the paint though. I sand blasted them and then powder coated them and they look brand new. Even better i think with the PC rather that wet paint.

Took off my stock tach/temp/light assembly and started planning on how to fet the new gauges in. Going to put aftermarket tach and temp gauges along with custom leds for the indicator lights. So far i got the tach mounted, but now have decided to make an entire new face plate to spread things...

Yes parallel would make sense. I can just check the difference with the led installed and solder on the nessasary one.

Shortened rear here for some comparison.

Yes that is what i will probably do. I also thought of wiring in series a resistor to compensate the difference between the led and the oem bulb since i think the entire circuit is based on resistance given from the sending unit in the tank? Does this sound plausible also?

Anyone have any exp with these gauges? Looking to customize my instrument cluster and have two large gauges and led indicator lights. Only light i should be concerned with is the fuel light which is involved with the entire reserve circuit correct?

I would assume you could just pull the fuse for it. I believe its the most front fuse under the faux tank.

So is there any advantage/disadvantage to having an 86 and up vboost because of the larger diameter? I have an 85 and am now wondering if i should look for a newer version?