Carburetor idle circuit cleaning

firefly · Apr 25, 2006

A very detailed step by step idle circuit cleaning, I haven't tried it but others say it works.
For others who tried it please comment about it and how successful clearing your problem.
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
firfly

Buster Hymen · Apr 25, 2006

I've done it and it works great. it is also a good time to check your slide diaphragm for any rips or tears. 2 of mine had small rips in them which I was able to repair with a little bit of silicone. They are pretty expensive to buy.

firefly · Apr 26, 2006

Buster Hymen said:
I've done it and it works great. it is also a good time to check your slide diaphragm for any rips or tears. 2 of mine had small rips in them which I was able to repair with a little bit of silicone. They are pretty expensive to buy.

If I just remove the A/F mixture screws,can I blow air through them without having to do the whole procedure? and when you blow though the A/F holes where does the air come out from?
Thanks
________
Ferrari FXX

maleko89 · Apr 26, 2006

Ibrahim, if you blow through the mixture screw hold air will blow out from PAJ1 at the top of each carb and also PAJ2 behind the slide diaphragm. I would remove the slides, mixtures screws and get carb cleaner in each oriface. That includes the main air bleed, 3 holes for the purge jets, mixture screw hole, and both PAJs.

Something else you can try is a fuel additive called Seafoam. You can get it at O'Reilly's or any other auto store. It comes in a which can with red lettering. I put a 3rd of a bottle in the tank and it'll clean your entire fuel system including the carbs and combustion chamber. Idle seems a bit more crisp.

Take care,

shawn kloker · May 1, 2006

Mark,I'll second that seafoam cleans them out real good.carbs,valves,I even use it for stabilizer over the winter.I run about a 1/3 bottle through mine every 3-4 tanks.The quality of the gasoline nowadays is very questionable anymore.Summer is coming,corngas is on the way.Techron is supposed to do well too. Shawn

one2dmax · May 9, 2006

maleko89 said:
Ibrahim, if you blow through the mixture screw hold air will blow out from PAJ1 at the top of each carb and also PAJ2 behind the slide diaphragm. I would remove the slides, mixtures screws and get carb cleaner in each oriface. That includes the main air bleed, 3 holes for the purge jets, mixture screw hole, and both PAJs.

Something else you can try is a fuel additive called Seafoam. You can get it at O'Reilly's or any other auto store. It comes in a which can with red lettering. I put a 3rd of a bottle in the tank and it'll clean your entire fuel system including the carbs and combustion chamber. Idle seems a bit more crisp.

Take care,

SeaFoam is a great product and so is Techron additive. If you can't find the seafoam the Techron works just as well.

Sean

shawn kloker · May 9, 2006

firefly said:
A very detailed step by step idle circuit cleaning, I haven't tried it but others say it works.
For others who tried it please comment about it and how successful clearing your problem.
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
firfly

try it Mikey likes it!

firefly · May 13, 2006

I always use chevron 87 ,the problem I have is that the bike doesn't fire up instantly from the first turn like it use to:a014: when cold and even after the dealer adjusted the A/F mixture with a sniffer , synced the carbs and changed fuel filter the idle looms around the 500 rpm AFTER one minute of choke at 1200 RPM. After the bike is warmed up it is very crisp and responsive.
These symptoms make me suspect the idle circuits need some cleaning, it also happened suddenly but the bike runs great when at operating temperature.
I use the bike 7 days/wk so its not gummed out but I tinkered a lot with the air /fuel mixture screws ( gently but a lot ) while trying to make the colortune work

What do guys think?
________
Yamaha Artist

firefly · May 13, 2006

maleko89 said:
Ibrahim, if you blow through the mixture screw hold air will blow out from PAJ1 at the top of each carb and also PAJ2 behind the slide diaphragm. I would remove the slides, mixtures screws and get carb cleaner in each oriface. That includes the main air bleed, 3 holes for the purge jets, mixture screw hole, and both PAJs.

Something else you can try is a fuel additive called Seafoam. You can get it at O'Reilly's or any other auto store. It comes in a which can with red lettering. I put a 3rd of a bottle in the tank and it'll clean your entire fuel system including the carbs and combustion chamber. Idle seems a bit more crisp.

Take care,

Where are the 3 holes of the purge jets and the main bleed? sorry I never looked at the carburetors, can you provide a photo or two?
Thanks
________
teen vids

mikemax04 · May 13, 2006

Ibrahim, if the bike idles good at 1K when warm, your idle circuits are fine. Mine is a bit finicky too when starting it cold because it wants only a certain amount of choke. I apply my choke about half way, hold the throttle barely at the closed position and when it fires one time give it just a tiny bit of throttle.......hardly anything, just enough to keep it going over 1K. I adjust the choke then to idle at 1K-1.2K and leave it on for a mile or two while riding. Works for me. 3 turns out from lightly seated should be OK for the idle screws. The more you tell us, the more we can focus in on the problem. See if you can get a de-smogger, living in the LA area. Those smoggers are hard to get rid of.

firefly · May 13, 2006

mikemax04 said:
Ibrahim, if the bike idles good at 1K when warm, your idle circuits are fine. Mine is a bit finicky too when starting it cold because it wants only a certain amount of choke. I apply my choke about half way, hold the throttle barely at the closed position and when it fires one time give it just a tiny bit of throttle.......hardly anything, just enough to keep it going over 1K. I adjust the choke then to idle at 1K-1.2K and leave it on for a mile or two while riding. Works for me. 3 turns out from lightly seated should be OK for the idle screws. The more you tell us, the more we can focus in on the problem. See if you can get a de-smogger, living in the LA area. Those smoggers are hard to get rid of.

That is basically what I do to, what is a de-smogger?
At operating temps the bike is very crisp and responsive, but just the sudden change makes me think about it and try to find out what is it

________
Suzuki Bandit Series

maleko89 · May 13, 2006

Ibrahim, you got mail. I sent a couple of pics for you.

firefly · May 13, 2006

maleko89 said:
Ibrahim, you got mail. I sent a couple of pics for you.

Thanks so much, Do you think it will cure that problem?
________
cannabis collective

maleko89 · May 13, 2006

Ibrahim, I would do the shotgun, re-sync the carbs and then adjust the idle thumb screw. Other things to check are air filter, float level, compression and for a weak spark. HOw old are your spark plug wires? Get a multimeter out and check the resistance of the secondary coils, plug wires and boots. Stick the (+) lead up in the boot and the (-) lead on a clean engine bolt.

firefly · May 13, 2006

maleko89 said:
Ibrahim, I would do the shotgun, re-sync the carbs and then adjust the idle thumb screw. Other things to check are air filter, float level, compression and for a weak spark. HOw old are your spark plug wires? Get a multimeter out and check the resistance of the secondary coils, plug wires and boots. Stick the (+) lead up in the boot and the (-) lead on a clean engine bolt.

Spark plug wires are 23k old
________
buy cannabis seeds

maleko89 · May 13, 2006

Whoa, check them out definitely. You may have a weak spark.

shawn kloker · May 13, 2006

Ibrahim,The wires come apart just be unscrewing the ends off.Sometimes there is green corrosion in there.The wire can be cut back a 1/4 inch or so to get to new clean wire again.Measure all four with an ohm meter too.It will show you if any are real bad. Shawn

firefly · May 14, 2006

Plug wires are fine, iridium plugs new, used the sea foam cleaner nothing helped.I guess I'll have to do the shotgun cleaning thing .
________
Ford E-Series

firefly · Jun 5, 2006

maleko89 said:
Ibrahim, if you blow through the mixture screw hold air will blow out from PAJ1 at the top of each carb and also PAJ2 behind the slide diaphragm. I would remove the slides, mixtures screws and get carb cleaner in each oriface. That includes the main air bleed, 3 holes for the purge jets, mixture screw hole, and both PAJs.

Something else you can try is a fuel additive called Seafoam. You can get it at O'Reilly's or any other auto store. It comes in a which can with red lettering. I put a 3rd of a bottle in the tank and it'll clean your entire fuel system including the carbs and combustion chamber. Idle seems a bit more crisp.

Take care,

I am pleased to say that seafoam finally worked after 3 tanks, I definitely feel the difference, the bike starts right up when cold and is smooth at very low RPM. thanks Mark & Sean for suggesting seafoam, I used chevron additive but could not feel any difference, seafoam made a big difference using 3rd of a bottle per full tank 3 consecutive fills.
I guess it needs time to clear everything.
________
Kawasaki KX60

Marky_max · Oct 18, 2006

I am new to the forum and have a similar rough running problem.
Funny thing is the bike just came back from a big service that cost me 500bucks. But that is another issue.

I think I want to also check my fuel filter.
Can anyone tell me where to look to find it?

Carburetor idle circuit cleaning

Help Support VMAX Forum:

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Similar threads

Join the conversation!

Join today and get all the highlights of this community direct to your inbox. It's FREE!