Pissed off Veteran
Well-Known Member
I need a shift light Medic, anything you recommend? My friend still thinks the trident is quicker, but with the carb diaphragm repaired I can already hear the differance.
1988 vmax
- Thread starter Pissed off Veteran
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I think DYNA has them.
99YAMAHAVMAX
Well-Known Member
99YAMAHAVMAX
Well-Known Member
Fair comment if you intend to keep the bike long term but otherwise some JIS screwdrivers or bits would be a cheaper investment?
Should be under the rear seat in either a plastic or cloth bag.
Should be under the rear seat in either a plastic or cloth bag.
Pissed off Veteran
Well-Known Member
Right now I intend to keep the bike long term but it sure is a money pit right now. All the years of neglect is showing.
Pissed off Veteran
Well-Known Member
I was going to start painting some of the plastic pieces. I was going to wet sand them with 800 grit to get what is left of the shine off. Should I use a primer before painting? Also I want to remove valve covers to replace gaskets and paint them also they are just terrible looking, driving me crazy. I'm conflicted about it though from what I read it's going to be a pain in the ***, do I need to remove carbs or should I remove carbs? Also not outside working much on it when it's 100 degrees
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Zaos
Well-Known Member
I recommend to remove carbs, it’s super easy like 8 clamps holding the boots and then the fuel line and makes it a world easier
Pissed off Veteran
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What about throttle cables remove them too right?
Zaos
Well-Known Member
Oh yea, those are also easy thought, behind the left fake air intake cover, two screws and they can come out of their slide
Pissed off Veteran
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Going to do it tomorrow, 100 degrees today, 80 degrees tomorrow. WTF over.
99YAMAHAVMAX
Well-Known Member
They are behind the left scoop panel that is held on by 3 philips head screws. Black servo box also has 3 tiny screws.
Pissed off Veteran
Well-Known Member
Sounds good, alot of work to do tomorrow.
O.P.: What about throttle cables remove them too right?
I leave the cables connected at the carburetors and split 'em at the cable connector box (#10, below).
Be careful when you open the connector cable box (#10), as the box isn't available from Yamaha anymore. Snug-down the screws but be careful you don't over-tighten them. I believe Zaos is speaking of the same thing, where to remove the throttle cables, what he refers to as the 'slide.'.
Here's the paint I use for painting aluminum castings, it has a pleasing finish and is durable.
An example:
When you need to easily seat the carbs and airbox, take a tip from the show, Happy Days.
Use KY jelly or generic equivalent, works great. Also try my "sit on it Potsie" method, quick, easy, and no need for anything but...your butt! Certainly no 2 x 4 and jack!
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21303&highlight=seating
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=35378&highlight=Carbs+seating
Reply #6
I would be very careful about trying to use a prybar or anything else when attempting to get the carbs into/out-of their rubber 'boots.' You do NOT want to feel that sickening feel of your carburetor body collapsing as you attempt to pry on it.
I leave the cables connected at the carburetors and split 'em at the cable connector box (#10, below).
Be careful when you open the connector cable box (#10), as the box isn't available from Yamaha anymore. Snug-down the screws but be careful you don't over-tighten them. I believe Zaos is speaking of the same thing, where to remove the throttle cables, what he refers to as the 'slide.'.
Here's the paint I use for painting aluminum castings, it has a pleasing finish and is durable.
An example:
When you need to easily seat the carbs and airbox, take a tip from the show, Happy Days.
Use KY jelly or generic equivalent, works great. Also try my "sit on it Potsie" method, quick, easy, and no need for anything but...your butt! Certainly no 2 x 4 and jack!
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21303&highlight=seating
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=35378&highlight=Carbs+seating
Reply #6
I would be very careful about trying to use a prybar or anything else when attempting to get the carbs into/out-of their rubber 'boots.' You do NOT want to feel that sickening feel of your carburetor body collapsing as you attempt to pry on it.
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Pissed off Veteran
Well-Known Member
Hello Medic, Carbs came off EZPZ. I bought some of the alum blast paint and semi gloss black. My question is what about sanding, should I sand enough to remove clear coat and should I use primer?
I'm going to defer to a painting expert like CaptainKyle. I believe a primer will help to get a better job, as will the sanding prep you are doing, with fine # sandpaper. I bet he will answer your question soon.
Pissed off Veteran
Well-Known Member
Can the alum blast be used for the valve covers or should I buy something with more heat resistant? Alum blast is good for 250 degrees. uh is the frame gloss black or semi gloss black?
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I haven't used the Alumiblast on the engine yet, I think it would be best for engine side covers rather than the crankcase and cyl heads. I've wanted to paint an engine silver and black, like a SOHC Honda 750-4, where the upper case is painted black for the cylinders, w/the rest of the case (upper & lower) in silver, and the heads/valve/cam covers silver.
It would be interesting to see how an OEM silver engine paint compares to the Alumiblast silver.
You should just paint the frame whatever you desire. I think a semi-gloss black is the best look, unless you were going to do something like a complete frame re-do, where you grind-down welds, remove welding spatter, and use body putty to make things as-smooth as possible. Then painting it in a gloss black is a subtle way of showing the work put into the frame prep. It might not be noticeable to the casual observer, but anyone who has knowledge of what the mass-produced frames look like, will see the work put into the frame. This is not an easy build!
It would be interesting to see how an OEM silver engine paint compares to the Alumiblast silver.
You should just paint the frame whatever you desire. I think a semi-gloss black is the best look, unless you were going to do something like a complete frame re-do, where you grind-down welds, remove welding spatter, and use body putty to make things as-smooth as possible. Then painting it in a gloss black is a subtle way of showing the work put into the frame prep. It might not be noticeable to the casual observer, but anyone who has knowledge of what the mass-produced frames look like, will see the work put into the frame. This is not an easy build!
Pissed off Veteran
Well-Known Member
I want the paint I buy to match the rest of the frame, the frame just needs some touching up. I'm thinking gloss black is what it looks like. Any help would be great.
99YAMAHAVMAX
Well-Known Member
1985-2002 gloss black--2003-2007 satin black----motors also.
Pissed off Veteran
Well-Known Member
A little update on what is happening with 1988 vmax. Headlight housing is cracked so bought a new one on ebay. Valvecover gaskets leaking have new ones. All bolts for valve covers are rusted, rubber mounts dry rotted new ones on the way. Took carbs off and noticed all carb joints were dry rotted and cracked, have new ones. Vboost was all gummed up removed and cleaned have new rubber joints also. Removed radiator as it was held on by 1 bolt and removed all coolant hoses, going to replace all hoses with new stainless clamps. Have alot of new bolts coming as so many are just rusted so bad. Have valve covers painted as well as aluminum intake joints.
