1996 r/r running 18.08 volts at 2500rpm?

[wildweasel_pt]

The stator should give you around 50vac between phases (depending on revs). I'm betting on the RR to be faulty. The voltage output is too high. Should not be above 14.5/14.8. One cannot assume the the headlight bulb should burn as there's lots of losses in voltage along the harness and the headlight is on the opposite end and what burns a bulb is not voltage but current instead which is a consequence of applied voltage.

 

[blaxmax]

Thanks Fred, Mosfet is ordered. I will post the results.
I assume the 1996 r/r I hardwired was defective but all 3 wires showed 453 on the multimeter. The stock '85 r/r I pulled off a few days ago showed 543 on 2 wires and 011 on the 3rd wire.

 

[Fire-medic]

But you were reading on the stator side weren't you? So, excess voltage in the area of 18 volts going to the battery is indicative that the regulator isn't limiting the voltage to the in-spec value, far-below your 18 volts. Since the regulator-rectifier is two electrical components on a common chassis, one limiting voltage, and one converting AC to DC, the voltage regulating function is obviously faulty.

I remember learning about the R/R function on my Yamaha 360 two-stroke dirtbike when the regulator went out, and the headlight filament popped after becoming 'really-bright' for about four seconds. For a moment, I was thinking, "wow, I'll never complain about night headlight function again!" Then the headlight blew. This was back when bikes had headlight on-off switches still, and two-strokes punished the four-strokes daily on the roads, the trails, and the race courses.

SOunds like your troubleshooting will pay-off once the new MOSFET R/R is installed.

 

[blaxmax]

But you were reading on the stator side weren't you? So, excess voltage in the area of 18 volts going to the battery is indicative that the regulator isn't limiting the voltage to the in-spec value, far-below your 18 volts. Since the regulator-rectifier is two electrical components on a common chassis, one limiting voltage, and one converting AC to DC, the voltage regulating function is obviously faulty.

I remember learning about the R/R function on my Yamaha 360 two-stroke dirtbike when the regulator went out, and the headlight filament popped after becoming 'really-bright' for about four seconds. For a moment, I was thinking, "wow, I'll never complain about night headlight function again!" Then the headlight blew. This was back when bikes had headlight on-off switches still, and two-strokes punished the four-strokes daily on the roads, the trails, and the race courses.

SOunds like your troubleshooting will pay-off once the new MOSFET R/R is installed.

The readings in post #22 are both r/r's unplugged.
"SOunds like your troubleshooting will pay-off once the new MOSFET R/R is installed." I hope so, thanks FM.

 

[sdt354]

Not saying his stator is a problem,just that it's a higher current producing, now talking amps, unit than the vmax stator.

 

[blaxmax]

I would like to thank all you guys for taking the time you did to help. Volts are a steady 14.5 with the new R1 r/r on Ebay for $14.95 free shipping new.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201358295479?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT