2002 Vmax Electrically Dead

[bamboozer]

No horn, no starter no nuthin'. All fuses are good. Battery is not so hot but will take a full charge, that's not the issue. Jiggled key and wiring, still nothing. Happened suddenly, went for a nice long ride on Monday, went to start it Tuesday and it clicked and died completely. Any ideas?

 

[Fire-medic]

Do the lights work? Check your grounds.

 

[[email protected]]

The main 30Amp fuse is separate from the others. Did you check it?

Absolutely no power to anything? No idiot lights, no nothing?
I'd double check that battery and the cabling.

Is the engine start button sticking? This usually shows itself as idiot lights working but headlight not working.

 

[ga_max]

Also check that the starter switch is not stuck.

 

[sdt354]

Loose solenoid connection? Time to break out the multi-meter.

 

[bamboozer]

I'll look for the main 30 amp fuse and check the battery cable.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Check the main fuse first and if that is OK establish if you have power up to that point.

Can we assume that you have a wiring diagram?

Start at the battery, ideally with a multi-meter, but a test light will be OK and check that you have power. Red into a power lead connection black to earth.
Refer to the wiring diagram and follow the power (+12v) wires and keep checking for power.
This will be a red wire up to the ignition switch then blue for the lighting circuit and brown for all other circuits.

Do this in a logical manner and eventually you will come to a point where you no longer get a reading.
You will then need to check back to the last good point and will probably be looking for a bad or broken connection or wire.

 

[bamboozer]

Main fuse is good, battery reads 12.5 V (as stated a replacement wouldn't hurt), cables seem to be good. Electrical is my least favorite repair, may just concede defeat and send it to the shop.

 

[shicks16]

Try checking the voltage on the battery with the key on and maybe even with the starter button pressed in. If it has a substantial drop then a new one would be in order.

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[MaxMidnight]

Electrical is my least favorite repair, may just concede defeat and send it to the shop.

Then this is a good opportunity to learn provided you are open for the challenge.
You only need two items, a wiring diagram and a multi-meter. If you have 12.5v at the battery then you should have the former and the latter is available (Helpful hint: One on colour is helpful.)

First check: Have you got battery voltage at the battery side of the fuse?
If yes the wiring to that point is OK, if no you need to trace back through the loom.
Second check: Have you got battery voltage on the switch side of the loom. If yes the fuse is OK if no replace the fuse.
Third check: Move to the next component that the power goes to...you know what to do!

Follow a logical sequence of tracing the route the power takes will soon identify where the problem lies. I really isn't that difficult.

 

[Fire-medic]

Yes, follow the instructions offered, no-need to feed the shop rates on this. You can get a free digital VOM volt-ohm meter at Harbor Freight w/the right coupon, with another purchase. Then put it to-use.

 

[bamboozer]

No experience reading a schematic, do have a meter or two and will give it a shot. Total bummer as the goal was to sell the bike, previous to this the only problem was it needed new fork seals.

 

[one2dmax]

Remember that the main fuse box has a spare and one that actually completes the power circuit. Check BOTH though the one with the wires coming out of the back is the only one that works. Everything passes through it and if it's out you'll be completely dead.

 

[Specs95t]

I had a similar thing happen to mine a while ago. Arrived at an overlook area - and nothing.

When I started checking around, I found that one of the battery cables was loose (still connected, but not torqued down).

Simple check - maybe you get lucky like me...


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[one2dmax]

The other area to check is the two small ground wires on the RH side of the frame on the same bracket that the fuel pump is bolted to (opposite side of the key to get the faux tank cover off). With those loose or not grounded properly the whole thing doesn't work well.

 

[Fire-medic]

As 'ga max' mentioned, the starter switch can get stuck, which will not allow normal operation. I believe there are a couple of threads by people on refurbishing the switch pods. Sometimes you can jiggle it back-out to restore normal operation, but a minimum of some WD 40 will probably be necessary, and a quick disassembly (only 2 screws) will allow access to the copper contacts, where some burnishing, a bit of dielectric grease, and access to the button spring will probably solve your issues, assuming this to be your problem.

Sean's advice about the ground screw, and being sure to check the correct main fuse, sounds like one of the first things to check in a 'no-electric' situation. As I already mentioned, checking grounds is the first thing I check when electrical issues occur, assuming the battery is good, and charged.

 

[Fire-medic]

A suggestion from another member:

the problem could be the three-conductor Ignition Switch Connector, located under the faux tank. Several members have had failures like this.

Jumping across the brown and red wires should restore power (the blue is for the parking lights circuit). Could also be the switch itself, but more likely this connector is the culprit.

 

[MaxMidnight]

A suggestion from another member:

the problem could be the three-conductor Ignition Switch Connector, located under the faux tank. Several members have had failures like this.

Jumping across the brown and red wires should restore power (the blue is for the parking lights circuit). Could also be the switch itself, but more likely this connector is the culprit.

A reasonable suggestion but the best way to get the quickest diagnosis is to test for power in a logical sequence working away from the battery.
You may strike luky but you are more likely to waste time. :bang head: