2004 ran fine until parked, wouldn't restart, slow to turn over..

[Corrugated]

Hi guys, happened on my last ride of this season a day ago..

Left me stranded, waiting for tow truck now. No start, slow to turn over, rode great until stopped and turned off. Battery is 2 years old(?) I think. Waiting 2 hours now, almost got started, but no. Tried 2 jump starts and no success either. Bloody hell...will diagnose further once home...

Sitting voltage on battery yesterday morning, 11.9volts, on charger now, cleaning some grounds, will check charging voltage tomorrow...

OK sitting / charged battery voltage today is 13.1, voltage while running cool is 13.4, 13.8 after warmed up from a quick ride. Seems like this problem is more sensitive when the bike is hot. What should I consider next?

 

[Fire-medic]

Standing voltage, running voltage is OK. 'Slow to crank,' still? Maybe take a look at the starter? You should have a 4 brush starter. That should help things. How many miles on the odo?

 

[Corrugated]

Standing voltage, running voltage is OK. 'Slow to crank,' still? Maybe take a look at the starter? You should have a 4 brush starter. That should help things. How many miles on the odo?

Previous owner did supply a starter when I bought from him last year, turned out it needed the starter clutch replaced, which I've done and that works well. Still have the starter though if I need to try it. 40,000 kms on the odo.

 

[Corrugated]

Standing voltage, running voltage is OK. 'Slow to crank,' still? Maybe take a look at the starter? You should have a 4 brush starter. That should help things. How many miles on the odo?

Just seen the links to the charging diagnosing steps now..I'll go over those to start with. Thanks!

 

[Corrugated]

OK, so further testing done. Voltage to battery at 3000 rpm = 13.5, not dropping. When stopping the bike from running (ignition on, start switch to run or off, standing voltage slowly drops to 12v over 30 seconds or so (led headlight still on). When I turn ignition key off, voltage returns to apx. 12.3 volts or so. Voltage doesn't fluctuate when switching run switch on or off, only when turning ignition key from off to on... Checked a few more connections / grounds under the seat area and they seem good. Ignition switch the problem, or a draw somewhere? Will plan to get the battery load tested next as well....

Thanks!

 

[Fire-medic]

Did you see the post I made recently about overhauling/reconditioning the switch pods?

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/how-to-recondition-the-clutch-side-switch-pod.20783/
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/h...ts-of-the-throttle-side-switch-housing.17272/
Thanks to ninjaneer.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/stuck-start-switch.29226/#post-314743
Thread the above are shown: Slow '96 VMax??

 

[Corrugated]

Did you see the post I made recently about overhauling/reconditioning the switch pods?

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/how-to-recondition-the-clutch-side-switch-pod.20783/
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/h...ts-of-the-throttle-side-switch-housing.17272/
Thanks to ninjaneer.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/stuck-start-switch.29226/#post-314743
Thread the above are shown: Slow '96 VMax??

I see them now, I've bookmarked and will check them out next...Thanks!

 

[02GF74]

It does sound like the battery is fine but.....

....... you say it's 2 years old - did you fit it yourself and is it correct capacity?

There was a post recently where a bike had starting issues, turned out the previous owner fitted an undersized battery sitting on some padding to be at same level.

Also worth removing the battery leads and cleaning up the connectors with fine abrasive paper.

 

[Corrugated]

It does sound like the battery is fine but.....

....... you say it's 2 years old - did you fit it yourself and is it correct capacity?

There was a post recently where a bike had starting issues, turned out the previous owner fitted an undersized battery sitting on some padding to be at same level.

Also worth removing the battery leads and cleaning up the connectors with fine abrasive paper.

I'll be taking the battery out tomorrow to see exactly what it is and it's condition, load test, etc...The battery connections look perfectly good from what I can see, but will clean them regardless when I take the battery out...I'm hoping it's just a failed battery, but there is a .5v draw occurring as I found during my testing earlier today, so will continue my checking...I've got a bunch more information to work with from the site here..

 

[02GF74]

there is a .5v draw occurring as I found during my testing earlier today,

?????

Battery voltage will drop when not being charged, also when ignition is on as headlamp + other components draw power.

To measure if the battery is being drained, you connect the meter between battery and lead to measure current.


Going back to your first post, the engine turned over slowly after the bike was left sitting for a while after being ridden? You say this seems to be worse when engine is hot.... but if left standing, surely engine had cooked down? I'm not quite getting this.

 

[Corrugated]

?????

Battery voltage will drop when not being charged, also when ignition is on as headlamp + other components draw power.

To measure if the battery is being drained, you connect the meter between battery and lead to measure current.


Going back to your first post, the engine turned over slowly after the bike was left sitting for a while after being ridden? You say this seems to be worse when engine is hot.... but if left standing, surely engine had cooked down? I'm not quite getting this.

The .5v drop will occur when I switch the ignition key from off to on / run, within a minute or so. I can turn the ignition on and off and the voltage change will continue to occur as I test it. I have an LED headlight and tried switching it to high beam to see if the voltage would drop alot, but only changes apx .1 volt, so doesn't seem like the light is drawing too much (I can't recall if the headlight is switching off during cranking, like it should, but will confirm that next as well). I will check the battery drain next too, as you have mentioned. Yes, rode the bike on the highway for about 30 minutes, stopped / shut bike off while going to the store, came back 1 minute later, then the slow crank / no start occurred. Had it act up a month ago, again when warm / hot, the bike stalled and was again slow to turn over. Pushed myself off to the side, retried starting it a moment later and it was good to go then...that was the only other time it's done this...

 

[MrMAX1985]

Last year I had an issue the same as you describe-after riding for a 1/2 hr it did not want to restart. Traced it to being the rectifier not charging (had it on a battery tender when parked). Replaced the rectifier and checked charging voltage 14.2@ 3-4000 rpms. rode it for a month and same issue-checked charging voltage-14.3, battery would not hold charge. Replaced battery with recommended Odessy battery and every thing was fine for 1 month. Go to ride it one day and won't crank over, check battery voltage and it was at 12.1-dropped off as soon as hitting starter switch. Charged up battery and it fired right up-checked voltage again and it was 14.2 @3000 rpms-looked for a draw-no amperage draw when shut off. Took for an extended ride, checked voltage after and it was at 13.8. Next week go to start and same situation-no start. checked voltage again-12.3vts. I pulled the "new battery" out, charged it with a trickle charger overnight and tested in morning-showing 13.9 vts. Hooked a headlight to it and immediately voltage dropped to 7 vts. Bad Battery! Took it back and got another one and no issues at all this year. I think you have a battery failing.

 

[Corrugated]

OK, quite sure I see my problem. Took battery out (that was fun), battery is about 2 years old (installed from previous owner), 16AL-A2, but most of the cells where low of electrolyte. I also noticed the vent tube was not connected, so who knows what was happening there. I'll have it assessed today and replace if needed with something more awesome.

View attachment 20220925_110723.jpg

Upon removing the 2 coils and bracket, I noticed the coils were cracked on the undersides. I know this is a common problem, should I replace them with stock units, or goto the COPS mod now?

View attachment 20220925_105431.jpg

Thanks!

 

[Fire-medic]

Yes, I agree that it could be a bad battery, as MrMax1985 had. A load test is indicated.

Cracked ignition coils are very-common. If they're dry, you could slather some JB Weld onto them to close the cracks, but they probably aren't the cause of the issue, if you tested them against the values in the service manual.

The main benefit of COP's is ease of swapping one out if it's bad. They aren't necessarily better than OEM traditional coils. They aren't 'hotter,' if that's what you want, get a set of Dyna green coils of proper resistance.

 

[Corrugated]

Yes, I agree that it could be a bad battery, as MrMax1985 had. A load test is indicated.

Cracked ignition coils are very-common. If they're dry, you could slather some JB Weld onto them to close the cracks, but they probably aren't the cause of the issue, if you tested them against the values in the service manual.

The main benefit of COP's is ease of swapping one out if it's bad. They aren't necessarily better than OEM traditional coils. They aren't 'hotter,' if that's what you want, get a set of Dyna green coils of proper resistance.

View attachment 86023View attachment 86024

I am a master JB Welder (owner of a mid 80's Mustang, so that's a given lol) so I've got some JB Weld ready to go, I will check the resistance first of course (thanks for attaching the specs!). If they're still in spec, I'll repair and reuse them for now I suppose...

To be continued...will update tomorrow..or so..

 

[Corrugated]

Topped up battery electrolyte levels and load tested, it was marginal at best, so I wont reuse this battery, I'll purchase a new one. What suggestions to use?

Thanks

 

[Fire-medic]

Traditional lead/acid is inexpensive, but not longest-lasting.

AGM is more-expensive but should last longer than the lead/acid.

Lithium-ion is most expensive, lightest, and powerful.

What are your priorities? If price is an issue, I'd go AGM for longevity and price. Lithium-ion if you have the $$$.

If you're willing to cut up the battery box, (search on here for Sean Morley's directions) you can fit a battery for a Honda Gold Wing. Easy to find and more amp/hour rating than OEM size.

 

[Corrugated]

Traditional lead/acid is inexpensive, but not longest-lasting.

AGM is more-expensive but should last longer than the lead/acid.

Lithium-ion is most expensive, lightest, and powerful.

What are your priorities? If price is an issue, I'd go AGM for longevity and price. Lithium-ion if you have the $$$.

If you're willing to cut up the battery box, (search on here for Sean Morley's directions) you can fit a battery for a Honda Gold Wing. Easy to find and more amp/hour rating than OEM size.

I'd be looking for better / best for sure, I'm already into this for a $300 tow, so don't want to cheap out or have a repeat of a break down again. I've used a lithium battery on my RC-51 in the past, I'm pretty sure my current battery tender was compatible with that one. I'll check my local battery shops out during this week to see what they have available and price decide from there..

Thanks!

 

[putin]

I'd be looking for better / best for sure, I'm already into this for a $300 tow, so don't want to cheap out or have a repeat of a break down again. I've used a lithium battery on my RC-51 in the past, I'm pretty sure my current battery tender was compatible with that one. I'll check my local battery shops out during this week to see what they have available and price decide from there..

Thanks!

Had the same issue with electrolyte levels. I think battery too close to hot engine. Bought Odissey online, and ride without problems for 2 years now.

 

[MadMaxMan]

I put a lithium in my 05 in 2013 and still going. It is kept on a maintainer though.