#3 Cylinder Issues (Video)

[sdt354]

This is a common issue. Next time I get one stripped I'll do a write up, doing it with common hand tools. Caps on the screw tunnels are a good idea.
Steve-o

 

[blaxmax]

Well, I dropped off the bike at the local mechanic today. I showed him the idle mixture screw that was broken. He was very upset, and said he will try to work on it, but I may need a new carburetor if he cannot remove it. I also told him I needed the bike by Thursday evening, because I plan to drag race on Friday and Saturday. He said he would do his best. His prices are very good. A couple years ago, he rebuilt a set of forks on an FJ1200 for about $45. That would have taken me all day.

I went on a long ride with a group on Saturday. My bike was popping and sputtering, and running mostly on 3 cylinders for the first 50 kilometers. Then it cleared up and worked fine for the rest of the day. I tried applying the choke again while riding, but no improvement. Seems very spontaneous, but happens once about every 3 days of consistent riding.

If your a/f mixture screw "head" is stripped and will not turn I took a dremel with a pointed tip and went horizontal across the top making the standard screw slot deeper. Cleaning it with a q-tip and wd-40 as i went along. The a/f screw is pretty deep and plenty of room to rebuilt it.

 

[sdt354]

If your a/f mixture screw "head" is stripped and will not turn I took a dremel with a pointed tip and went horizontal across the top making the standard screw slot deeper. Cleaning it with a q-tip and wd-40 as i went along. The a/f screw is pretty deep and plenty of room to rebuilt it.

Another good method, tks.
A tight fitting screw driver is essential when turning an A/F screw. Best way to get one is to grind one yourself, trying it in a needle you have out. Also, dig the crud out of the slot first if you can.

 

[maleko89]

I recommend getting those plastic caps and plugging the mixture screw tunnels. I've done this with both of my Vmaxes and never had a mixture screw problem.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[liptoss]

Usually the two opposite the side stand that I've observed to seize up. All four can, but those two like to pool any moisture and not drain it away from the brass. I squirt a wee bit of Rust Check in the holes every once in awhile to keep things moving. Wiping away the excess.

 

[Hellboy]

Before I got rubber inserts for my A/F screw holes, I would always blow them out with an air compressor and then spray a little inox or wd40 in them after washing the bike. now with the plugs I still spray them and then plug them.
I also blow out the top of the cylinders at the spark plugs after every washing especially on the high side. Water will sit in there for days, corroding and seizing things.

Matt

Matt