39mm Flat Side Carbs - how to improve the look

[MaxMidnight]

If offering an alternative opinion is being rude then so be it - it wasn't intended to be.

My point is centered on the assumption that the cooling system is adequate for the job.
On that basis then as the motor heats up the thermostat will open further to allow more coolant to flow through the radiator.
If the coolant temperature continues to rise then the fan would cut in to reduce it.

IMHO removing the rear shield would have little effect on the overall operating temperature of the motor.
I'm also curious to know why it is only the rear shield that is removed - why not the one at the front as well?

Indeed if your assertion is correct it then removing the shield will allow additional heat to be convected to the fuel lines, pump and carbs - is that really a good idea?

Over the years I have learned that the 'experts' don't always know best and that it is not unreasonable to query views that seem at odds with your own understanding.
I am not immune from the above and I am quite happy to have any points I make challenged.
Contrary to your statement I know I don't know everything.

Of course you may have actual temperature readings to back-up your argument in which case will not hesitate to withdraw my statements.

Until then we are both offering opinions which all and sundry are at liberty to accept or reject.

 

[Fire-medic]

"1967," Mr. Midnight is never rude on here, not in my experience, he does have useful knowlege which he shares, freely, and he is not 'full of himself.' I think you may have taken it a bit too-personally.

If your Tourmaster motor runs hot, then exactrep can sell you a $1400 custom radiator and at extra expense, oil cooler for more $$. BoxenstoppDaytona may have something too and Sean can probably find something as-well. Heat shields were placed there for a purpose. I may not install them at first when reassembling a motor into the frame, but they will go in after things are squared-away. A proper thermostat and a new radiator coolant system cap of proper psi will also help to ensure the system works correctly. You don't have to spend $40 for the OEM Yamaha part, a NAPA replacement is discussed under the threads.

We all have opinions, and feelings, I do not think Mr. Midnight was trying to belittle yours or to hurt yours, respectively. I enjoy reading all ideas, it's like politics, believe in what you want and set-aside the others.

 

[srk468]

As long as it doesn't get below freezing I'd try a 75% water 25% antifreeze with a full bottle of Redline "water wetter" and I gotta agree with the other guys on leaving the heat shields in place. If the water wetter doesn't work and your thermostat is working right I think you can swap out the fan for one that draws more air (thought I seen one on here before) and if it still doesn't stay cool your probably gonna have to get a bigger radiator. Hope the cheap options work for you...

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[1967vmax]

Ok maybe i did take it the wrong way sorry. I dont have any overheating issues or fuel issues and i think the front rubbber shield is left in place to dirrect the air from the fan to the front cylinder, The 1500 is sleeved which is a thinner cylinder wall and comes up to temp faster than a stock motor and in traffic this can cause the temp needle to creep into the red the best thing i have found is engine ice and fan over ride switch.

 

[t0lkien]

My bike definitely runs hot in traffic, though I guess most bigger bikes do that. I use the manual auxiliary fan a lot to keep the thermostat out of the red. It's fine when riding. I just have to remember to switch it off before moving again as apparently it could burn out.

It's summer here though, and Oz summers are no laughing matter. The winter it will be fine I bet.

 

[t0lkien]

If your thinking of something to mimick the stock look of the carbs maybe a cover could be devised that would mount off the mainifold bolts? You could have a facsimile of the two factory diaphragm covers say as 2 tuning forks cut into a piece of stainless steel. Below the 2 tuning forks you could do any number of designs such as: "1500", "Vmax", "V4" or even "PCW 1500". It would most likely need another bracket at the top but not sure where you would mount to as I've not that familiar with FS carbs.
I'm sure you'll or someone else will come up with a better idea, just throwing it out there for ideas. Look forward to seeing what you end up with.
Also, welcome to VMF. I'm sure you'll find just about anything you want to know about your Vmax on here. In case you don't find what you need in a search, or need clarification on a point just ask and an answer will be posted to help you out. We also like pictures of your Vmax, any rides you go on, or any work you undertake. Beware there is a mod monkey that likes to use your bank account to further mod your Vmax, he is lurking in the most likely and unlikey places, hopefully you will be wary, you may not get much warning.

I have had a think about this too Redbone... the flat side carbs stick out a bit too far though. Also, I was ambivalent about creating a faux look. It's a shame because I really like the stock look (the two circles under the scoops).

The thing about the VMax is that all the lines - scoops, carbs + pipes particularly - were carefully designed aesthetically by Yamaha. Anytime these bits are changed it messes deeply with the visual balance of the bike, which is why so many available mods bamboozle me. They break all the very intentional lines of the bike (including the ones on my bike btw). Form and function should go together - but that's the designer in me speaking. I'm a very big fan of function and form syncronizing - the best designs are always like that. And that's why I'm also looking at the RAM scoop system. The iconic scoops not being functional irks me

 

[Redbone]

You may be interested in looking at what Rick Bachman did to make functional Vmax scoops. I'm think you may check out the Millennium scoops for the Vgas carbs.
http://ramair4vmax.com/photo_gallery/photo_gallery3.htm

 

[speedcostsmoney]

change your fan sensor so that your fan starts 20 degrees before the stock sensor check VMAXOUTLAW they got them for sell

 

[Rand-5107]

I think there is a Nissan sending unit that turns the fan on about 20 degrees lower. Maybe somebody has the part# handy. I think keeping your electronics cool may have something to do with the heat shields.

 

[you2low]

This looks cool and the webstite has more options i think:biglaugh:

 

[davidon]

Thanks for the info. The bike is already set up as much as I need mechanically a (long list of mods including new rims and radials, 39mm flat sides etc. - it was dynoed at 163bhp and it's already a beast; it's taken me a week just to get comfortable with the torque and power). It's basically 2003 running gear on a 1988 frame, with many power and handling improvements. The guy who did it is a performance car specialist and loves Vmax's. He knows his stuff, and this was the second build like this he did (he had two bikes, one in the US and one in Australia). The PCM 1500 Tourmaster engine has not much more than 9,000km on it, so is just run in. He's since moved to a 2009 Gen 2.

I'm really just concerned about some of the aesthetics - the flat sides and scoops particularly. Here's a pic (though I've since fitted a grab handle on the Ventura rack and removed the Garmin Zumo 550 cradle since I can't seem to find a replacement - the previous owner kept his 550). If I can't sell the original body work, I may remove the tuning fork badges and put them on the new carbon fibre tank shown here. I like the stock look, however, and don't want to move further away than the bike already has if I can help it:

For those interested, here's a list of mods. All work done to the bike was performed by PCW Racing in Schenectady New York:

• Big bore 1500cc engine with 39mm Keihin Flatslide carbs and custom intake manifolds

• Brand new 2006 Venture undercut transmission

• Tougher clutch to suit

• Whole engine and trans parts were cryogenically treated for longer life

• and strength

• Ohlins piggyback fully adjustable rear shocks

• Racetech emulators and springs in the front forks

• R1 front brake calipers (stops more quickly than most modern bikes)

• Braided brake and clutch hoses

• Fully braced and powder coated rear swing arm

• Lightcon lightweight custom 17" wheels with Michelin Pilot Power sport bike radial tyres

• Upgraded charging system with Venture voltage regulator/rectifier

• Rifle brand (California) easily removable touring windscreen

• FJR1300 clutch and brake master cylinders with fully adjustable levers

• Marks (California) 4-2 stainless exhaust system fully ceramic coated inside and out by HPC Coatings

• Heated grips

• Manual cooling fan switch

• Factory case saver crash bars fitted with Kuryakin billet alloy highway pegs

• Billet alloy front fork brace

• Custom rider and pillion seats for improved long distance comfort

• Fake tank and both mudguards are brand new factory Carbon Fibre colour items from a 1999-2001 model

• Ventura bag rack

• When the frame was changed every seal and bearing were replaced in the steering stem and swing arm

• Garmin Zumo 550 hard wired mount and bracket

• Brand new Odyssey gel battery

• Ancillary 12 volt cigarette lighter socket installed under the seat to plug in trickle charger, phone or other battery chargers or heated clothing

Cryogenically treated :ummm:

 

[Fire-medic]

Cryogenically treated :ummm:

Liquid Oxygen, Nitrogen, or Helium for days will treat the metal to make it wear-resistant compared to untreated material. It's been around a long time.

 

[Fire-medic]

Oops, sorry, double-post!

Cryogenically treated :ummm:

Liquid Oxygen, Nitrogen, or Helium for days will treat the metal to make it wear-resistant compared to untreated material. It's been around a long time.

http://metal-wear.com/

http://metal-wear.com/Sending Parts.html

http://metal-wear.com/racing prices.html