$650 1200 VMax Barely Cranks

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Today i removed the side cover and held the starter gears with my fingers and cranked it to see if the engine turned-over normally and it did. while i have this thing apart i might as well fix the starter clutch. is there a tutorial? Tips?

thanks
 
EXCELLENT, THANKS! I'm just glad that the starter clutch is easy to access. my SECA 750 had the same issue and it required splitting the engine cases.

that starter clutch tutorial is missing the images....https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/how-to-remove-inspect-replace-your-starter-clutch.16294/
 
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Use the search function and I'm sure that you can come-up with pics and info to help your repair.

Take your own pics and write-up your results.
 
is that flywheel bolt reverse threaded or just a pita to budge?

never mind....
 
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ok, i made two breaker-bars out of old tubing and rested one on the ground while i turned the other. worked great. when in doubt extend your moment arm...... my puller didn't have the right thread pitch. i had to find another bolt that works and now i have to go to the hardware store and buy three of them. it would be nice if the manual would tell us what bolts to use to pull the flywheel. the pic they show just has two short wrenches to remove the flywheel bolt. you can wrestle with it all day and not get anywhere like that. you MUST have at least one long breaker-bar.
 

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Like Mike said, the OEM stator cover gasket thickness is critical. I only use sealer around the wire grommet on the stator cover.After much slow cranking, I'd almost bet the bolts in the flywheel loosened up. The later model 4 brush starters are a good upgrade.
 
95 took starter out at 20,000 miles 33000 kil and cleaned it up. ordered new 4 brushes and found out the lenght were the same. Instead of putting new on the brush plate, used the original.
I would not look at starter until 50000 miles. Re the gaskets and O-ring as stated above just buy yamaha o-rings for the thermostat housing. Tried metric and standard niether worked cap would not go down. The manual shows the leak hole placement on thermostat. The problem was not thermostat but the head drain in the front of the engine was not placed in the right position (above oil filter). Did valve clearance all were to spec So I wasted all my time the these bikes are bullet proof and are best not touch just jump on and ride it to death
 
i wish that they'd be this meticulous with their starter clutch design.
Upgrades are available. I went to a 6 roller last change. It's held up for a few years and is still in service. The Lithium battery is a good starter clutch saver in itself. The bikes have got to crank and start easy or the starter clutch suffers.
 
sure, but Yamaha had this problem for a long long time and for some reason refused to fix it. i just ordered a new starter clutch for $30.00. i'll make sure that those bolts don't back out if i have to use JB Weld.
 
sure, but Yamaha had this problem for a long long time and for some reason refused to fix it. i just ordered a new starter clutch for $30.00. i'll make sure that those bolts don't back out if i have to use JB Weld.

Why-not just "blue" Loctite?
 
i might use blue loctite but JB Weld will hold them better and i want it fixed FOR GOOD.
Well 'red' Loctite will work even-better but you'll probably need heat to remove anything set with that in the future.
 
Loctite is just super-glue. I'll let you know how it goes. maybe this will turn out to be the permanent fix that everyone wants.
 
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