If there was
any gasoline in the carb bowls, and the bike was last on the road, or run four years prior, you need to disassemble the carbs and to clean them.
Mr. Midnight is very-optimistic! Sure, why-not, but in the end, they will need a disassembly and soak, a blow-job, and careful re-assembly with proper parts and care to setting things like the bench float level.
robmac is correct upon a thorough inspection of the gas tank; also include the fuel lines, and the fuel filter. The tank interior should be shiny-bright (assuming that it has-not been coated with some type of tank sealant), especially upon the bottom. Anthing less, and you need to determine why-not, and then undertake the steps to return it to good appearance and good operational condition. The gas filter should be replaced. Slit it open and study the media's 'captures,' what crud was in-there? That's a good clue as-to the condition of the fuel tank. That molded U-shaped hose on-top of the fuel tank? You do not need to spend $ for the Yamaha OEM molded U-shaped hose, just buy a foot of 1/4" I.D. reinforced gas hose from any auto parts store ($1.49/ft. at NAPA) and use that to form a U-loop to go from the gas tank tube to the gas filter. You'll see how-long it needs to-be, to make the U without collapsing/kinking, probably something like 7 or 8 inches.
Another 'save your $' tip: you do not need to buy a OEM Yamaha gas filter, get one like these, they fit perfectly in the allotted space under the frame bracket. Any auto parts store is going to have these, probably for ~$6. You should change yours once a year. The Russell anodized aluminum case, sintered-bronze filter is a good one, and you can disassemble it and replace the element, your local speed shop has those. Some people say, "red is the fastest color."
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I'd be changing-out all fluids in the brakes and clutch. The 'reverse-bleed' (pic #5) is for me the #1 quickest way to get a firm pedal or lever. Fluid in at any bleeder nipple causes any residual air to move upwards (bubbles rise, yes?) and you will notice 'fizzies' emerge from the holes in the floors of the master cylinders. When you have purged all the air, then you will see a geyser of brake fluid (pic #6) as you push fluid uowards from the bleeder nipple from your syringe. When you get to that point, fanning the lever a few times, and you should be rewarded with a furm lever, and restored function to your brakes and clutch.
Here's a shot (pic #4) of a carburetor interior, what do you notice missing?
The rubber plug for the jet block pilot jet. This bike, had it been capable of running (It wasn't) would have-run, 'like-ass,' as my Midlands U.K. mechanic says. Who-knows what abortions the prior owners perpetrated-upon your present ride? I just hope the idiot who 'worked' upon this recent arrival stayed completely-out of the engine.
Here's another pic (#2) of what the prior owner did to 'fix' a presumably-leaking master cylinder fluid level window. I don't know if it's epoxy or body putty. Before this bike is returned to the road, this will be fixed with a watch crystal epoxied in-place, after removing this crap.
I'm also including a pic (#3) of the underside of the carbs. This is how I split the carbs for a tank bath. You don't need to split them into-four.
The last pic (#7) shows a fuel tank/fuel reserve sender unit blank-off plate. I had a really disgusting gummed-up tank on another bike needing lots of attention (notice a pattern?) and I used vinegar after pressure cleaning the tank interior. I neglected to remove the fuel reserve sending unit and after days of vinegar soaking, I found this when I opened the fuel tank. Now I use a blank-off plate.