Ac voltage from stator

[Tattoo_Mike]

questions is when checking the voltage from the stator (3 white wires) do you test wire to wire? and what should the output A/C voltage be on each leg? Anyone know this? I though I read something here a while back but I cant seem to find it now. Any info or a link to what Im looking for would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys!

 

[maleko89]

Yes, wire to wire. 50-75 VAC at 2500 rpms.

 

[PATMAX]

A difficult test to run when the bike won't start

 

[sdt354]

Non running limits you to checking between the 3 stator wires for a grounded or shorted
pair with an ohm meter. Running a/c output is best imho. Corroded and burnt plug connection is common. Best test is on the wires themselfs before the plug.
Steve-o

 

[Tattoo_Mike]

well, the top voltage at 2500 rpm is almost a whopping 12 volts A/C. I'm pretty sure the stator is toast. the ohm's come in around 4 to 6 and no grounds are showing up. I got rid of the "crimp" late last year but it looks as though the damage has already been done. Guess I will get a new stator and rectifier and go from there. Thanks for the help everyone and any other suggestions on things to check is also welcome.

 

[sdt354]

A later model R/R is your best bet. A venture stator also fits and has a higher output.

 

[Tattoo_Mike]

I was Looking at R/R's this morning and noticed that the later model has what looks to be a 2nd ground wire maybe? I assume this is okay and works the same...I would be none to happy to toast a new stator..

 

[PATMAX]

Just speaking to SpecOps about this. Electrosport may be a better price option than factory Yamaha. Venture tip also a good idea.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

If you need a running stock stator let me know. I also have an early model RR if needed

 

[sdt354]

I was Looking at R/R's this morning and noticed that the later model has what looks to be a 2nd ground wire maybe? I assume this is okay and works the same...I would be none to happy to toast a new stator..

I'm running a later model R/R and like it. 13.8 volts with the fan on. The extra
ground wire is a blessing. There are othe options too, like Patrick mentioned.
Steve-o

 

[rollin thunder]

My stator is putting out 10-11 volts at 1000 r.p.m.Is my stator toast .Just afew days ago I was getting 14 volts off the bike now 11.9 .I think my rr is ok ,it still gets warm and all the conections are clean.I tested my meter to make sure it was at the right selection and put it into an a.c outlet and got 120 is this right?.Help!!!!.

 

[rollin thunder]

Ok I unplugged the stator at the three wire connector and tested all three terminals with each other and got 20v and 55 and more when I reved it so i think thats ok and the engine is slightly warm .BTW my rectifier got so hot after just TWO min I had to take my hand off!!!.Does it sound like a bad Rectifier?.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

That isn't supposed to happen... They supposed to get warm but grabable...

 

[Rusty McNeil]

If it's putting out 10-11 AC from the three white wires when plugged in to the r/r and 20-50 when it's "open" then I would guess your r/r is toast.

That excess r/r heat could be from the r/r dumping voltage more than it should. To the point where the input AC "looks" low when it's plugged into the r/r because the r/r is trying to dump ALL the voltage.

A shorted Zener would do this, and shorted is the typical failure mode of any diode. It failed a Zener will also drive the DC output sky high, overstress the bikes electrical system, can boil the battery and all other kinds of expensive stuff.

The r/r has a zener diode (different function and job than the rectifying diodes) that's supposed to bleed (shunt) off anything over about 14 or so, (give or take)....if it's trying to do it's best to bleed off at a whole lot lower level that could account for the heat......

The Zener diode is the "regulator" part of your r/r, it's made to break down and dump voltage by means of becoming conductive and adding load the stator to the point that output voltage is decreased.. The Zener can repeatedly perform this breakdown function and live to tell the tale, and can be built to breakdown at a specific voltage.....


In normal situations The Zener gets hottest when the battery is fully charged and load is low because at that point it is trying to get rid of most of what the stator is making. When load is at it's highest then it doesn't have to shunt off as much to keep the voltage down and it runs cooler......

You havent said what the DC output at the battery with everything hooked up and normal, and engine running is, or if you did I missed it...

If by chance your running the bike with the r/r not plugged in to the battery and seeing some load (is that even possible) then it's for sure the r/r is going to get very hot...

When checking the stator unplugged with engine running Is it 20-50 AC evenly across any possible combination of the three white wires? It should be even.

Is the Ohmic value between any combination of the white wires, unplugged, not running, the same value, I don't remember what that specific ohmic value is supposed to be but it should be close to the same for all three. This is basically checking the stator windings to see if they are shorted. (not grounded)

From white wire to ground, not running, and unplugged, the ohmic value between any combo of the three white wires should be very high, the stator shouldn't have any ground reference at all. This is basically checking to see if the stator is grounded. (not shorted)

Theres a difference between short and ground and it's important to know.

 

[rollin thunder]

Iam not sure if I checked the oms properly or not but when the engine is running I get 11.9 volts and when I rev it up I get 12.2 and two min running and the rr gets too hot to touch.Like I said before I get 20 to 50 ac volts with the stator un connected and1 0-11 with it connected to the rr.Do i really need to wire and solder the three stator wires to the rr or just clean up the connecters and use that to join them .

 

[sdt354]

I like to solder the stator feeds to the regulator and forget about them. A good clean,tight, plug connection is fine.
Steve-o

 

[Tattoo_Mike]

yep Toast!

 

[Bill Seward]

Looks exactly like the stator I pulled out of my Roadstar last fall. Yep, toast!!

 

[rollin thunder]

I'm running a later model R/R and like it. 13.8 volts with the fan on. The extra
ground wire is a blessing. There are othe options too, like Patrick mentioned.
Steve-o

Hey Steve o is your stator plugged in or crimped and soldered?.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Iam not sure if I checked the oms properly or not but when the engine is running I get 11.9 volts and when I rev it up I get 12.2 and two min running and the rr gets too hot to touch.Like I said before I get 20 to 50 ac volts with the stator un connected and1 0-11 with it connected to the rr.Do i really need to wire and solder the three stator wires to the rr or just clean up the connecters and use that to join them .

I recommend cutting that stator connector plug out. Its a frequent failure point.
A matter of opinion but I think a quality compression butt splice taped up or heat shrinked is as good as soldering any day.

Based on this last post tho I still think your r/r is fried.
Perhaps you could check stator output "wire to wire" engine running, plugged in to r/r and take duplicate readings on the stator side and then the r/r side of that connector to check for a massive voltage drop across that stator connector when it has load on it.
Better yet and more accurate;
You can also read directly across the connector from one side to the other (AC) for the same wire and if good shouldn't read much if any volts, more than a 100 millivolts for this one would be the most I'd let slide. Every little bit counts.

If its dropping a bunch across the connector then maybe i'm wrong and its not the r/r. But based on what you said earlier about the r/r getting way hot i'm still guessing that's the problem.

You can also do that "across the connector" reading anywhere on the DC side to look for bad connections as well. Remember tho you need load in order to see voltage drop. Lights, fan on if possible to give you a worst case scenario.

Another proving method (once you have a good r/r) is to read DC volts (running, everything normal and plugged in) from the DC positive wire first connector from the r/r between it and the BODY of the r/r. (Dig in with that probe on the r/r body)

That's what the r/r is REALLY making.

If your not getting this same voltage across the battery terminals then you have a poor ground between the r/r body and the battery, or a poor connection between that positive wire and the battery. (Famous crimp fix, there's another way tho ill get to in a bit)

Straight path to point a to b in all cases, not relying on the frame or engine to get neg. to your battery or starter, and eliminating connector voltage drops is key here.

I still have the frame and engine grounded of course but buying some big monster wire (I think i used #6 or #8 awg, cant remember) and getting creative did the trick for me.

Ground wire directly from the r/r mounting bolt to the battery neg., straight ground wire from the battery neg. to a starter mounting bolt ( this is to address starting issues) and splicing into that first pos. wire coming out of the r/r and taking it straight to the battery pos. are things I did. (On the r/r positive I used an oversize butt splice when eliminating the connector and added a third wire straight to the battery, around the famous crimp, butt I also soldered that crimp as well a long time before)

Big wire from the r/r pos. lead to the battery pos. is kinda overkill though cause I think the factory wire coming out of the r/r is only #10 or #12 awg perhaps.

I did not eliminate any existing wiring, I just paralleled it with new wire skipping around all the ******** connectors, splices, and crimps. Except for the connectors on both sides of the r/r, I **** canned those and butt spliced them.

Sorry to be so dang wordy....just trying to help with a little detail.