Ac voltage from stator

[rollin thunder]

Thanks Rusty.I sure hope my stator is ok too .It would save me money and work.

 

[Miles Long]

I recommend cutting that stator connector plug out. Its a freIf it's putting out 10-11 AC from the three white wires when plugged in to the r/r and 20-50 when it's "open" then I would guess your r/r is toast.

That excess r/r heat could be from the r/r dumping voltage more than it should. To the point where the input AC "looks" low when it's plugged into the r/r because the r/r is trying to dump ALL the voltage.

A shorted Zener would do this, and shorted is the typical failure mode of any diode. It failed a Zener will also drive the DC output sky high, overstress the bikes electrical system, can boil the battery and all other kinds of expensive stuff.

The r/r has a zener diode (different function and job than the rectifying diodes) that's supposed to bleed (shunt) off anything over about 14 or so, (give or take)....if it's trying to do it's best to bleed off at a whole lot lower level that could account for the heat......

The Zener diode is the "regulator" part of your r/r, it's made to break down and dump voltage by means of becoming conductive and adding load the stator to the point that output voltage is decreased.. The Zener can repeatedly perform this breakdown function and live to tell the tale, and can be built to breakdown at a specific voltage.....


In normal situations The Zener gets hottest when the battery is fully charged and load is low because at that point it is trying to get rid of most of what the stator is making. When load is at it's highest then it doesn't have to shunt off as much to keep the voltage down and it runs cooler......

You havent said what the DC output at the battery with everything hooked up and normal, and engine running is, or if you did I missed it...

If by chance your running the bike with the r/r not plugged in to the battery and seeing some load (is that even possible) then it's for sure the r/r is going to get very hot...

When checking the stator unplugged with engine running Is it 20-50 AC evenly across any possible combination of the three white wires? It should be even.

Is the Ohmic value between any combination of the white wires, unplugged, not running, the same value, I don't remember what that specific ohmic value is supposed to be but it should be close to the same for all three. This is basically checking the stator windings to see if they are shorted. (not grounded)

From white wire to ground, not running, and unplugged, the ohmic value between any combo of the three white wires should be very high, the stator shouldn't have any ground reference at all. This is basically checking to see if the stator is grounded. (not shorted)

Theres a difference between short and ground and it's important to know.quent failure point.
A matter of opinion but I think a quality compression butt splice taped up or heat shrinked is as good as soldering any day.

Perhaps you could check stator output "wire to wire" engine running, plugged in to r/r and take duplicate readings on the stator side and then the r/r side of that connector to check for a massive voltage drop across that stator connector when it has load on it.
Better yet and more accurate;
You can also read directly across the connector from one side to the other (AC) for the same wire and if good shouldn't read much if any volts, more than a 100 millivolts for this one would be the most I'd let slide. Every little bit counts.

If its dropping a bunch across the connector then maybe i'm wrong and its not the r/r. But based on what you said earlier about the r/r getting way hot i'm still guessing that's the problem.

You can also do that "across the connector" reading anywhere on the DC side to look for bad connections as well. Remember tho you need load in order to see voltage drop. Lights, fan on if possible to give you a worst case scenario.

Another proving method (once you have a good r/r) is to read DC volts (running, everything normal and plugged in) from the DC positive wire first connector from the r/r between it and the BODY of the r/r. (Dig in with that probe on the r/r body)

That's what the r/r is REALLY making.

If your not getting this same voltage across the battery terminals then you have a poor ground between the r/r body and the battery, or a poor connection between that positive wire and the battery. (Famous crimp fix, there's another way tho ill get to in a bit)

Straight path to point a to b in all cases, not relying on the frame or engine to get neg. to your battery or starter, and eliminating connector voltage drops is key here.

I still have the frame and engine grounded of course but buying some big monster wire (I think i used #6 or #8 awg, cant remember) and getting creative did the trick for me.

Ground wire directly from the r/r mounting bolt to the battery neg., straight ground wire from the battery neg. to a starter mounting bolt ( this is to address starting issues) and splicing into that first pos. wire coming out of the r/r and taking it straight to the battery pos. are things I did. (On the r/r positive I used an oversize butt splice when eliminating the connector and added a third wire straight to the battery, around the famous crimp, butt I also soldered that crimp as well a long time before)

Big wire from the r/r pos. lead to the battery pos. is kinda overkill though cause I think the factory wire coming out of the r/r is only #10 or #12 awg perhaps.

I did not eliminate any existing wiring, I just paralleled it with new wire skipping around all the ******** connectors, splices, and crimps. Except for the connectors on both sides of the r/r, I **** canned those and butt spliced them.

Buster - these two posts from Rusty would be great additions to the "sticky" by RaWarrior re diagnosing and fixing low voltage and charging problems... in particular the hints involving tests of the RR performance. These are not mentioned in the Electrosport chart.
Cheers!

 

[rollin thunder]

I noticed that my haynes manual says that a sign that the rr is bad is the lights flikering due to electricity fluctuating .mine doesnt do that .I just have a little over 12 volts running the system.If my stator is bad What else do I need besides a gasget for that side and to drain the oil before hand ?.I found good prices for a Stator on E bay.Thinking of going with a H.D. oem R/R. also .

 

[wildweasel_pt]

No need to drain the oil. Just tilt the bike to the right with some support not to be against the wall, the oil will go to the right allowing to access the cover and stator and loose no oil...

 

[rollin thunder]

How do I lean the bike to the right safely so it wont fall over and do I need Yamalube 4 to seal the gasget to the stator cover or some rtv type of sealer?.BTW I looked up pics in y Haynes manual and they take some rotor and stator apart at the same time and it looks labor intensive .

 

[Rusty McNeil]

If you have a center stand that's good enough. Won't lose hardly any oil.

 

[rollin thunder]

Ok ,I have a center stand.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

If you replace the stator you will need some silicon gasket to fit the rubber grommet where the 3 phase wires go through...

 

[rollin thunder]

Ok I am going to replace the rectifier with a ninja zx10 and see what I get for volts and if that doesnt do it then I will spring for a new stator .I probably need a new rectifier anyway.

 

[Buster Hymen]

How do I lean the bike to the right safely so it wont fall over and do I need Yamalube 4 to seal the gasget to the stator cover or some rtv type of sealer?.BTW I looked up pics in y Haynes manual and they take some rotor and stator apart at the same time and it looks labor intensive .

I have a step by step post in the How To section for getting to your stator. The post is here.

 

[rollin thunder]

Thanks !.I hope I dont need it .

 

[wildweasel_pt]

And in my thread (signature) you can find the values i got with the very same ZX-10R RR.

 

[rollin thunder]

I went out to the bike and put the meter on the various 3 stator wires and got 0 for resistance on the 200 setting .Then I put my neg lead to ground and checked all 3 wires again and got nothing .I started the bikeright up and was getting 25ac volts at 1000-1500 r.p.ms.

 

[rollin thunder]

And in my thread (signature) you can find the values i got with the very same ZX-10R RR.

I guess I have 3 spots to put this unit .Under the left scoop ,under the pass seat and, where the back coils used to be maybe ,if it will fit.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I've put the bigger ones under the passenger seat before. Don't know what bike it came off of though. It was for someone else's bike.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I guess I have 3 spots to put this unit .Under the left scoop ,under the pass seat and, where the back coils used to be maybe ,if it will fit.

Under the left scoop its great if you have removed your Vboost controller when using Stage 7...
You can always put it where the old front coils were (still are??) but the wiring will be longer... Over the battery will have you make a bracket of some sort to hold it in place

 

[rollin thunder]

well,I dont have stage 7 so I guess thats out ,but I do have rear coils removed .I may be able to make some type of bracket for it .These bike do not leave alot of room for extras.