Adventures with Powdercoating

[PATMAX]

FMC, it will not have to be that hot as the candies are not neccessarily a "heavy coat". I found it more effective to dust on a lighter coat of the candy than the base silver which must have good coverage. The candies will get darker and darker with successive coats which one coat can be enough to give you the bright pop you want unless you are matching something and need a darker hue. I'm pulling multiple parts out one after the other which lets heat out so I'm losing 50-75 degrees easy but they right back in after the color.

 

[PATMAX]

Mike, the extra coating will aggravate you come time to install the rotor. There is just not enough clearance for the machined seat for the rotors with coating on there. I tape mine off and you can wipe on paint (rattle can srayed into a rag) around the raw or stripped seat to make it black without the build up. I'll go in the garage and see if I have a pic to share.
PATMAX

 

[PATMAX]

Here you go.


When in doubt...Gas it !!!

 

[PATMAX]

The talk about temps got me to ask if you guys are using an infrared temp gun to shoot a quick temp of a part anytime your curious. They read instantly and run the gamut of prices but a R/C model car might be cheap enough for everyone if they go to a high enough temp. I mentioned before to keep a notebook handy for notations and observations but I never saw any of these things at the "pro" shops I've visited. Maybe just for us newbies!


When in doubt...Gas it !!!

 

[bazwell]

My temp gun cost like $15 and it works pretty good, as far as I can tell. Go ebay china!

When I do second hot coats I pull them out for a while. They cool so fast it's unreal. Buy the temp gun and watch how quick some things get from 400 to 200'F! I usually try and hit them under 200. Maybe 180. Depending on the powder, it still flows initially and gives an idea of how it will look.

I wouldn't bother without an infrared temp gun. They are cheap as.

 

[[email protected]]

Mike, the extra coating will aggravate you come time to install the rotor. There is just not enough clearance for the machined seat for the rotors with coating on there. I tape mine off and you can wipe on paint (rattle can srayed into a rag) around the raw or stripped seat to make it black without the build up. I'll go in the garage and see if I have a pic to share.
PATMAX

Thanks for the tips and pics Pat.

I was pretty specific when I dropped my wheels off to be coated. I gave very simple directions. If it is bare aluminum now, it stays bare aluminum, mask it off. If it is a color right now, change it to black. I did not get what I asked for. I'm going to have to try and remove PC from the rotor seat....

 

[gamorg02]

Anyone have experience with removing powder coating? I was checking out my wheels today and the coated covered up the mounting points for the brake rotors on both sides of the front wheel. He says it shouldn't be a problem but I'd rather have it removed. I have heard permatex aerosol gasket remover is good for tight areas. Spray it into a cup and brush it on with a q-tip... Any thoughts?

i just saw this man. ****. devin (44magnum) had the same issue and has been fighting brake pulsations for a while too. i'd get it removed

i can completely agree that that stuff will strip freshly done p/c. ask how i know, heh.

also maybe try aircraft remover from walmart/HF. like u said, qtip it around. and let it sit. then mask and spray paint touchup.

i'd be pissed.

if you knew someone with a mill it could probably done too eh?

 

[fmcandrew]

Yeah...I have a laser temp reader...was really curious about the temp of the second coat...seems to be varying thoughts on what temp to shoot the translucent or clear coat at...I finally got everything shipped to me...guess I'll do some experimenting this weekend...I like the notebook idea...getting old...forget things easy!

 

[fmcandrew]

OK...started my first PC project last night. Yanked the rectangular cylinder badges off and let them soak in Eastwood's stripper last night...rinsed with cold water this morning and old paint/laquer fell right off...tonight will clean with PRE and bake for gas-out, the clean agian with PRE. My understanding is that the better the prep...the better the results. Will have pics posted tomorrow....soooooo excited!

 

[fmcandrew]

As promissed.... are my first attempts. The cylinder badge is translucent red over reflective chrome powder, the carb caps are high gloss black and the swingarm caps are translucent red over factory chrome. Curious if the cylinder badges hold up under the heat and I understand powder has issues over real chrome, but I preheated so hopefully it'll hold...:confused2:

 

[bazwell]

Pretty damn good for first attempt at anything really!

 

[PATMAX]

I only have my iphone so I can't see the pictures really well. I've done the chrome swing arm caps and had zero problems. I've done the cylinder covers and had zero problems. Your carb covers look great though. I hope you have inspired yourself to keep doing more!
PATMAX

 

[CaptainKyle]

Stuff looks good ! I would like to try some coating one day but I just dont have the time right now.

 

[fmcandrew]

Guys...Thanks for the words of encouragement...I really like doing it! I'll be doing a lot more!!!! My bud has a vrod and wants me to change it into a NightRod...I'll be doing my scoops soon...if the larger objects come out as good as the smaller parts I'll be pretty happy!

 

[fmcandrew]

Going Koo-Koo for PC'ing!!!

 

[[email protected]]

Anyone have experience with removing powder coating? I was checking out my wheels today and the coated covered up the mounting points for the brake rotors on both sides of the front wheel. He says it shouldn't be a problem but I'd rather have it removed. I have heard permatex aerosol gasket remover is good for tight areas. Spray it into a cup and brush it on with a q-tip... Any thoughts?

Well, turns out the the permatex gasket remover that supposedly removes powder coating is no longer sold. It was PN 80646. I bought the replacement version and it does nothing.

However, I did find out that there is certain chemical that removes powder. This chemical is contained in some paint strippers. The chemical is called methylene chloride. I checked the MSDS sheets on the stippers that I have in the garage. Turns out my favorite one, Tal-Strip II (aerosol form) contains this chemical as the main ingredient.

I sprayed it on the unwanted powder and it bubbled up in a couple minutes. Need to be really careful though as it does not leave a clean edge. Not the best idea for intricate removal. The powder does not melt off like paint. It lifts in sheets and comes off in rubber like pieces. Its takes some work but it did a great job.

 

[fmcandrew]

Got a sandblast cabinet for $100...should do the trick...I hate the chemicals, used Eastwood's stripper...it worked, but the fumes were brutal and the metal looked abused!!

 

[PATMAX]

In Florida I deal with high humidity and blast canbinets and guns get clogged even with an in line drier. Black Beauty abrasive is almost too aggressive for aluminum or sheet metals. Stick with playsand. Have not used walnut shell or other bio media but I would be sure to Phospate bathe everything after the strip so you don't get the dreaded fisheye!

 

[fmcandrew]

PATMAX, do you know of any issues using glass beads?? I blasted my scoops with beads...first coat of Chrome came out good...when I put second coat of transparant there were several holes down to the metal. Was this due to the glass beads or outgassing? I baked good & long @ 450 prior to PCing and used PRE. This hasn't happened on any other part, however the scoops are the only ones I blasted...

 

[PATMAX]

No I do not know of any problems related to glass bead media. Just as a precaution, I would wash or wipe down with Phospate bath just to make sure there are no contaminants on the surface.