Air in clutch line.

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Caleb_M

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
85
Reaction score
0
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Hi guys, I got air in my clutch line and have never dealt with a hydraulic clutch before. Where is the bleed at? I must be blind or something. I did some searching and read a lot about it being on the slave cylinder, so where is that. All my manuals say is take it to the dealer.

Thanks
 
Hi guys, I got air in my clutch line and have never dealt with a hydraulic clutch before. Where is the bleed at? I must be blind or something. I did some searching and read a lot about it being on the slave cylinder, so where is that. All my manuals say is take it to the dealer.

Thanks

Follow the clutch line down from the master cylinder, it'll be at the other end, under the rubber cover.
 
Yeah I found it I wasn't pulling off the rubber square, I was actually using the bleeder as the pivot point :bang head:

Thanks
 
Also, you may not know that this line is a SOB to bleed!

It does not bleed as expected like with a normal brake line. You have to either reverse-bleed it (using a syringe to blow fluid from nipple to reservoir) or use a MightyVAC in order to get the air out.
 
for the $30 for a mityvac thru bikebandit, or goto your local autozone and get the $35 one with the pressure guage, i think its well worth the headache i've heard from others! plus it pulls any gunk thru the nipple or anything, cleaning it as well!
 
I hooked a 10' length of plastic tubing from the bleeder screw (use a zip tie to secure it), then ran the tube up over the handle bars and down into a container.

Top up master, close master.
pull lever, open bleeder screw until you feels the cylinder almost bottom out, close bleeder and release clutch lever. Wait for cylinder to refill and come back, then repeat.

This is the process I used and it worked fine. Just make sure you keep topping up the master cylinder and don't spill and brake fluid on the paint or scoops. I wrapped my master with an old towel to soak up an spills. I was averageing about 5-6 level pulls before I had to open and top up the master. This allowed me to bleed the line without introducing any air into it. Mind you I was only trying to flush it, but this might work for you. All in all, it took about 20 minutes to complete.
 
I got it all taken care of, luckily no vac was required, and only took all of about 30 secs once I found that stupid bleed.
 
I hooked a 10' length of plastic tubing from the bleeder screw (use a zip tie to secure it), then ran the tube up over the handle bars and down into a container.

Top up master, close master.
pull lever, open bleeder screw until you feels the cylinder almost bottom out, close bleeder and release clutch lever. Wait for cylinder to refill and come back, then repeat.

This is the process I used and it worked fine. Just make sure you keep topping up the master cylinder and don't spill and brake fluid on the paint or scoops. I wrapped my master with an old towel to soak up an spills. I was averageing about 5-6 level pulls before I had to open and top up the master. This allowed me to bleed the line without introducing any air into it. Mind you I was only trying to flush it, but this might work for you. All in all, it took about 20 minutes to complete.
+1, this is the process I used to bled my clutch when i installed my SS clutch line. The mityvac probably would be easier but this works well too.
 
Back
Top