Any mechanic recommendations around NYC or NNJ?

[Stephan D]

I'm interested in some upgrades and repairs for my 88 Vmax with 50K miles, but need to keep the price within reason. I should probably buy a new one, but I'm a bit sentimental.

Any recommendations for experienced Vmax-savvy mechanics in the NY/NJ area? Maybe someone trustworthy who needs a winter side-project and might agree to a pre-arranged price? Otherwise, is there a shop with sufficient expertise and won't rip me off?

Coolant hoses are leaking a bit (just replaced them, still leaking a bit), the gas tank floater is stuck (probably some rust in there, cleaner hasn't helped), need to service the brakes, suspension, carburator, and overall tuneup.

 

[Fire-medic]

Put your location under your screen name, it will help identify resources local to you.

I admire your loyalty to the bike, how many miles have you done, of the 50K? Your maintenance schedule is a good idea, you need to understand that you're likely going to be dropping $XXXX into it, depending upon the extent you go-to.

Coolant hoses: why are they leaking? Replacement with OEM hoses/clamps should have solved most issues, though places like the water pump and the L-pipe, and its O-rings needing disassembly/replacement of the O-rings, maybe a new pressure cap, and whatever-else to set things right, then a re-charge with aluminum-friendly coolant, is going to involve more in labor than parts.

"Gas tank floater is stuck," sounds like a gas tank removal, cleaning, and possibly a sealing, or a replacement ($309), and replacement of the sending unit ($37), could be $400+ 2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Fuel Tank | Ron Ayers

Brakes: two HH compound pad sets from an aftermarket source, probably $45 pair, HH pads aftermarket, $41 OEM compound (I recommend the HH aftermarket from Vesrah, EBC, SBS, or another quality supplier) 2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Front Brake Caliper | Ron Ayers OEM rear brake pads $37 2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Rear Brake | Ron Ayers and seals (front OEM 2@ $26=$52; rear OEM $27) for the f & r brake calipers, necessitating disassembly/cleaning, labor, front brake master cyl rebuild kit $38; hydraulic clutch master cyl rebuild kit $30
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500456acf8700209bc793153/front-master-cylinder-1https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500456acf8700209bc793154/front-master-cylinder-2
then a complete flushing of the f&r brakes, and the clutch, and don't forget the clutch slave cylinder rebuild (piston seal kit OEM $26, pushrod oil seal OEM $5) I don't have a flat-rate book for labor, but I'd say brakes and clutch, 5 hours minimum.

Then do you want to install new clutch friction discs (OEM recommended, ~$11 apiece)? 2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Clutch | Ron Ayers
Assuming you can re-use the 'steelies,' with a roughing-up, probably all else you would need is the clutch case cover gasket (OEM $9)
2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Crankcase Cover 1 | Ron Ayers

Now, the suspension: are the fork seals leaking? Fork seals (OEM 2@ $27) and dust seals (2 for $30 total); some fork oil $20 or you can use ATF, (cheaper) call it 2 hours labor.

Assume the rear shocks are OK, if not, a decent set of aftermarket rear shocks is probably ~$300 and you can spend $1,000 for some Penske shocks, though 412 Progressive Suspension shocks should get you by. Rear shocks are pretty-quick to R&R.

Carburetors: to remove disassemble, ultrasonic clean and replace parts, and reassemble/install, you could easily spend $800 if you needed new slides & diaphragms, a gasket set, new float valve seats and valves, and replacement of the rubber plugs in the jet blocks, etc.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042e2cf8700209bc78a2cc/front-fork
Changing engine oil (oil filter), differential oil, and spark plugs; gas filter (aftermarket canister is OK, call it $8, or a Russell replaceable element one $20), an air filter (OEM, $25) 1989 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12W) Air Filter | Ron Ayers could run nearly $100 in parts.

You see that to perform a complete and thorough go-through could run you close-to $2,000. However, that's the kind of service that should allow you to experience many thousands of miles after that expenditure. Hopefully your second gear dogs aren't rounded-off, that's probably $2,000 minimum, if you could find a Yamaha dealer willing to-do it, and they might require half-down.

Faced with your situation, I'd consider a call to CaptainKyle in TN and a road-trip to get the bike down there before the snow starts. If you were in the Midwest, I'd say visit Sean Morley in Derby KS.

Yes, it's a big expenditure, but there's no-point in doing some stuff, and then facing a lay-up because you developed a problem in one of the systems I mentioned, and we haven't mentioned tires or a battery. Installed those are probably $300.

What do you think?

 

[Stephan D]

Thanks for the very thorough info FM, much appreciated.

I put in about 42K of that 50K ... 10K of which in the last 6 months. It turns out that riding 300 miles a day is a great pandemic activity.

I need a little time to digest all the info you shared ... at first glance, it makes me think that buying a newer / better condition Vmax may be a wiser path. Which then leads me to think that I should buy a brand new bike instead.... slippery path

But I hadn't considered riding down to TN or FL ... That would make a lot of sense if I decide to do a complete revamp.

My most immediate problem is the coolant leak. I just got new hoses, new radiator (found a used one on ebay), and water pump installed, thinking that would solve any issues... but as it turns out, there's some metal corrosion/damage preventing a good seal (above the engine, on the right side, to the back). I was told I'd need a whole new cylinder head to do it right. Does that seem right to you? Any compounds/seals/heat-tapes you could recommend to jerry-rig a better seal temporarily?

 

[Fire-medic]

Sounds to me like one of these pipes, or other coolant fixtures are probably bad. try to use this to locate exactly where things are leaking.



https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042c84f8700209bc789c72/radiator-hose

 

[Stephan D]

Thanks again.

I replaced all the hoses, the radiator, and the water pump. There's corrosion/damage where one of the hoses meets the metal (maybe part 37 in your diagram).

The metal is essentially one and the same as the cyclinder head, and I was told I'd have to replace the whole cyclinder head, which I want to avoid for now. I'm hoping to find some sort of way to jerry-rig a better seal between my new (silicone) coolant hose and the slightly corroded/damaged metal edge. It's working for now, but there's a slight leak under pressure.

S

 

[KSRider12]

I replaced all of the coolant hoses on my 2002 this year. Both of the spigot fittings in the cylinder heads had some built-up oxidation around the top "lip". IIRC the front was worse than the rear and I just scraped the scale-like corrosion off and smoothed the surfaces with some fine scotch-brite. There was no loss of metal but if you are seeing serious corrosion far enough down the fitting to impair an adequate hose seal then replacement of the fitting is probably your only viable answer. I doubt that there is a jury-rig for compromised coolant fittings but, maybe someone here has a workable fix. Perhaps Sean could work his magic on the head and press a new fitting in for you?

 

[VMAXXIMUM]

Try Larry Fitzgerald, he runs LCR Performance. He modified a set of gixxer wheels for me and his work was absolutely top notch. Members that have used him for mechanical work all seem to be very satisfied.

 

[Fire-medic]

Try Larry Fitzgerald, he runs LCR Performance. He modified a set of gixxer wheels for me and his work was absolutely top notch. Members that have used him for mechanical work all seem to be very satisfied.

Larry is a great resource, but you'll need a long road trip to drop-off your bike in Rochester NY. He's very-good at anything VMax. Though I live in south Florida, I've been to his shop a couple of times. You will get your work done, at a fair price, and he won't try to 'up-sell' you.

Make a list of everything you think or suspect needs to be done on your bike, separate it into 'things I'm OK with doing myself,' and another, 'things I need-done by a competent VMax professional.' Then call Larry, and discuss your scope of work needing to-be done.