Backfire and popping out of right side exhaust

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The culprit was and I still think just debris in the fuel system. Vmax carbs are very sensitive to debris... If you own one of these beasts you have to be able to turn a wrench. I honestly think that I may do the shotgun one more time for good measure. The Cops do make a huge difference in the idle quality. I suspect that weak coils can make the bike's idle quality poor. I have noticed on my bike that when I was checking to see if certain cylinders were firing by removing the plug wire, I had one or two cylinders that seemed stronger than the others...


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If there is arcing from them then what?


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Not arcing from the cops because I have his set right now and I sent him a set yesterday. He sent me a photo showing 1.9 ohms on his multimeter. I asked him how many showed that reading and he said all 4. I told him to send them back and I sent him 4 that showed 2.8 on my multimeter. His arrived today and all 4 show 2.8 on my multimeter. His needs new batteries.
 
Not arcing from the cops because I have his set right now and I sent him a set yesterday. He sent me a photo showing 1.9 ohms on his multimeter. I asked him how many showed that reading and he said all 4. I told him to send them back and I sent him 4 that showed 2.8 on my multimeter. His arrived today and all 4 show 2.8 on my multimeter. His needs new batteries.



That's good, at least you are on top of your product blax. And still, I was asking it as a general question. If they are arcing, what does that mean?
Hypothetically speaking

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Update:

Well. After several attempts
To diagnose my issue I went ahead and went back to square one. My issues arose after installing cops, plugs, and doing the shotgun procedure.

Well, first thing is I removed the cops and reinstalled the stock coils and wires. Then I drained the bowls again and performed the shotgun procedure. I then took of the fuel line after the new fuel filter and placed it in a can of sea foam. I cycled the fuel pump a couple of times to fill the bowls with sea foam and let it set for 24hrs. I then drained the bowls and let the pump refill the carbs with fuel. I set my A/F screws to 2 1/2 turns. I hit the button and it sounded good. I just finished and 40 mile ride and so far so good. I'll keep you all posted.


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I did a full service on my 2002 in June including fresh fluids, filters, plugs and COPS. I noticed the bike ran great for a week then just as your bike did, mine developed that popping noise, but on the left side. After checking the gaps and making sure the COPs were seated on the plugs. Tbe bike is no better and is actually worse. I have tried the pea shooter. Do you think the first set of COPs contributed to the issue? I ask because you mentioned that you exchanged yours for another set.
 
I did a full service on my 2002 in June including fresh fluids, filters, plugs and COPS. I noticed the bike ran great for a week then just as your bike did, mine developed that popping noise, but on the left side. After checking the gaps and making sure the COPs were seated on the plugs. Tbe bike is no better and is actually worse. I have tried the pea shooter. Do you think the first set of COPs contributed to the issue? I ask because you mentioned that you exchanged yours for another set.


Well, I had the chance to install the new set of cops yesterday. After install I also made sure that the carbs were in sync. The bike starts and sounds good. I hope to have a chance go for a test ride today or tomorrow. I will keep you all posted. As I said in an earlier post I installed plugs, performed a shotgun procedure, and installed a set if cops. The popping started about 3 miles into my test ride.. After removing the cops and a couple of procedures I explained in previous posts there was no popping at all. I'm hoping all is well this time. The bike starts easy and is a lot more responsive with the cops. Nice and snappy.


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So I just did a peashooter fix and the popping from the left side of my bike has stopped. So when applied cleaner to the pilot screws on the left side carbs the bike sputtered and stalled. I repeated the clean until the bike would just sputter when cleaner was applied. When I did the right side the bike did not sputter or stall. Does this mean the carbs on the left needs service? Thanks
 
That's good, at least you are on top of your product blax. And still, I was asking it as a general question. If they are arcing, what does that mean?
Hypothetically speaking

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When the connection to the spark plug opens or the plug becomes un-fireable, the voltage from the coil will rise. Oftentimes this will create a breakdown in the insulation of the spark plug boot or wires. This results in an arc that passes through the side of the boot and nails the nearest point at ground potential. Once an arc has occurred, the pinhole created by the arc represents permanent damage to that boot.

The next high voltage pulse will pass more easily through the pin hole further damaging the boot. When it gets bad enough, the arc will occur first even though the spark plug has been restored to normal firing condition. The solution is to replace the damaged boot and damaged spark plug. The coil has really not failed.
 
So I just did a peashooter fix and the popping from the left side of my bike has stopped. So when applied cleaner to the pilot screws on the left side carbs the bike sputtered and stalled. I repeated the clean until the bike would just sputter when cleaner was applied. When I did the right side the bike did not sputter or stall. Does this mean the carbs on the left needs service? Thanks

Certainly sounds like it.

" Do you think the first set of COPs contributed to the issue? I ask because you mentioned that you exchanged yours for another set."

I sent him another set and when his original set arrived back to me I put a multimeter on them and they all checked out at 2.8-I wrote him back and said he should put a new battery in his multimeter.
 
Maybe his connectors? Mine went thru that issue


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When the connection to the spark plug opens or the plug becomes un-fireable, the voltage from the coil will rise. Oftentimes this will create a breakdown in the insulation of the spark plug boot or wires. This results in an arc that passes through the side of the boot and nails the nearest point at ground potential. Once an arc has occurred, the pinhole created by the arc represents permanent damage to that boot.



The next high voltage pulse will pass more easily through the pin hole further damaging the boot. When it gets bad enough, the arc will occur first even though the spark plug has been restored to normal firing condition. The solution is to replace the damaged boot and damaged spark plug. The coil has really not failed.



Ok, that's good info. I guess that's something that can make the check list when the bikes in the garage.


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After the PeaShooter cleaning and a 203 mile ride to Winnipesaukee today the bike no longer pops. After finishing the PeaShooter both carbs on the left still sputtered when cleaning fluid was applied to them although not as bad as they did on the first few applications and as I mentioned before both right side carbs did not sputter at all when cleaner was applied.
Any suggestions on what to do to get those left side carbs to NOT sputter? The bike is not popping and is running strong now. I didn't go all out and drain the bowls and use air.
 
After the PeaShooter cleaning and a 203 mile ride to Winnipesaukee today the bike no longer pops. After finishing the PeaShooter both carbs on the left still sputtered when cleaning fluid was applied to them although not as bad as they did on the first few applications and as I mentioned before both right side carbs did not sputter at all when cleaner was applied.
Any suggestions on what to do to get those left side carbs to NOT sputter? The bike is not popping and is running strong now. I didn't go all out and drain the bowls and use air.

If you run a few tanks with sea foam added and it is still not right your pilot jets in the jetblock are hard clogged and need to be taken out and cleaned.
 
Well folks... About 80miles today and no issues. I'll keep you guys posted.


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Installed cops and synced the carbs FYI


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Ok guys. I performed a little maintenance on the max and installed new plugs, COPS, and a shotgun procedure. My max ran fine before the work. After initial startup idle was fine. All was good until the ride to work. After about 2 miles the popping began. Nursed it home after work "discouraged." Tore into it a couple of days later and preformed the shotgun procedure. Idled up the road. Road a little and then ran it through the gears and low and behold the popping came back. I did get a little of sediment t out of one carb when I drained the bowls. I checked the inside of the tank and it is shinny and clean. I and going to drain the bowls one more time and shotgun again... Any suggestions???


More than once I've gone on a service call, where a problem like this developed after changing plugs. It's easy to crack the porcelain while swapping plugs. Especially if you use a long automotive socket. My own bike, when this happens, I look back at what I just did. The socket in the factory tool bag is perfect to get them loose, and tighten them. A piece of hose is best for taking them out and starting them in. You'll never cross thread a plug this way. If your problem persist, it may be the case. Or it may not be. Running fine BEFORE is a tip off. I hope it's fixed and running fine. A Vmax doesn't start too bad on 3 cylinders.
 
If you run a few tanks with sea foam added and it is still not right your pilot jets in the jetblock are hard clogged and need to be taken out and cleaned.
I run Star-tron almost every time I fill my tank. Is SeaFoam more effective?
 
Ok guys. I performed a little maintenance on the max and installed new plugs, COPS, and a shotgun procedure. My max ran fine before the work. After initial startup idle was fine. All was good until the ride to work. After about 2 miles the popping began. Nursed it home after work "discouraged." Tore into it a couple of days later and preformed the shotgun procedure. Idled up the road. Road a little and then ran it through the gears and low and behold the popping came back. I did get a little of sediment t out of one carb when I drained the bowls. I checked the inside of the tank and it is shinny and clean. I and going to drain the bowls one more time and shotgun again... Any suggestions???


More than once I've gone on a service call, where a problem like this developed after changing plugs. It's easy to crack the porcelain while swapping plugs. Especially if you use a long automotive socket. My own bike, when this happens, I look back at what I just did. The socket in the factory tool bag is perfect to get them loose, and tighten them. A piece of hose is best for taking them out and starting them in. You'll never cross thread a plug this way. If your problem persist, it may be the case. Or it may not be. Running fine BEFORE is a tip off. I hope it's fixed and running fine. A Vmax doesn't start too bad on 3 cylinders.
The popping has stopped since I cleaned the jets, but I will keep your advice in mind and check my plugs if the problem arises again.
 
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