Bike running super rich-spark plug chek

[customizedcreationz]

You do not need to go through 4 gears just 1-
I use iridium plugs before and after i installed cops and they make a difference either way.
I lowered the gap to from 35 to 27 when i made the cops and i run vboost open at all times.
122 mpg at sea level.
If your throttle is crisp and strong then your idle mixture is probably NOT off.

I was referencing your comment above. Which was a reference I assume to the statement I made about running the bike under load in 4th gear.

The same reason they run the dyno in 4th gear ( or 5th gear if you have a 6 speed ) for power runs.

 

[Born2Ride]

I was waiting to know how many miles I am doing now before the fuel light to come here and put an end to the thread but since I have that thick-thick noise from the engine I try to avoid unnecessary miles, and since bike still not runs fine so I will post later how many miles I am reaching.

Okay, so I had the bike giving me 65 miles until the light and I had no clue about what was inside the carburettors.
So one day, I started the bike had to go with open choke as normal and once I closed it later the bike tend to lose rpm and die if I would open the throttle to move forward, so had to ride like this:
open choke a bit otherwise would rev like crazy when stopped
hit first gear
lift up a bit clutch
and rush my right hand into the left side to open the choke and used it as my accelerator, lets say open fully was giving me around 60 miles per hour and could wave my right hand away that looked like I have cruise contol.

So I thought, well this is telling me that its time to do a carburettor service real urgent.
So I found on the internet this guy 18 miles from my house http://www.devmaxspecialist.nl/vmaxeng/indexeng.htm
he does this as his hobby, perfect, here I go.

I asked him to see which set up is there by the previous owner and to put them everything back as stock.

So he did, found out that I had stage one needles and springs, fine, replaced for stock, also new spark plugs, he advised and I agreed. I knew my v boost wasn't working, so I asked him also to see it, after he told me that the servo box was broken so he disconnected it.
So when I went to pick up the bike, at first I found strange that he had to use choke to start it when it was in a garage and not cold, but fine, every bike has his way.
Then I started to ride home, happy of my life, when I reached the highroad I closed the choke, felt no difference, but when I started to enter my city I noticed that when I was blipping the throttle from the response wasn't that fast and crispy as before, well I thought this must be the difference from the stage one needles, something I could live with.

After around two months, riding almost every weekend.
Now went to ride the bike, once I got the right temperature, closed the choke, and rpm immediately start to go down until bike dies, if I close the throttle fast it will idle, but that gives me the time to pull clutch in and reach the choke to open it. I also noticed sometimes a clicking sound from the carburettors, at least I think it was coming from there.
Lets say that bike only runs through gears and moves forward with the choke open until a position where when I stop it idles at 2k rpm.
This sounds a bit as the older problem, but in a smaller scale.

I contacted the guy he said he doesn't know, he would have to see...

Not much big of a service client, but that is very typical in Holland.

Do you guys here, ever experienced this problem?

 

[Dragmaxster]

I was waiting to know how many miles I am doing now before the fuel light to come here and put an end to the thread but since I have that thick-thick noise from the engine I try to avoid unnecessary miles, and since bike still not runs fine so I will post later how many miles I am reaching.

Okay, so I had the bike giving me 65 miles until the light and I had no clue about what was inside the carburettors.
So one day, I started the bike had to go with open choke as normal and once I closed it later the bike tend to lose rpm and die if I would open the throttle to move forward, so had to ride like this:
open choke a bit otherwise would rev like crazy when stopped
hit first gear
lift up a bit clutch
and rush my right hand into the left side to open the choke and used it as my accelerator, lets say open fully was giving me around 60 miles per hour and could wave my right hand away that looked like I have cruise contol.

So I thought, well this is telling me that its time to do a carburettor service real urgent.
So I found on the internet this guy 18 miles from my house http://www.devmaxspecialist.nl/vmaxeng/indexeng.htm
he does this as his hobby, perfect, here I go.

I asked him to see which set up is there by the previous owner and to put them everything back as stock.

So he did, found out that I had stage one needles and springs, fine, replaced for stock, also new spark plugs, he advised and I agreed. I knew my v boost wasn't working, so I asked him also to see it, after he told me that the servo box was broken so he disconnected it.
So when I went to pick up the bike, at first I found strange that he had to use choke to start it when it was in a garage and not cold, but fine, every bike has his way.
Then I started to ride home, happy of my life, when I reached the highroad I closed the choke, felt no difference, but when I started to enter my city I noticed that when I was blipping the throttle from the response wasn't that fast and crispy as before, well I thought this must be the difference from the stage one needles, something I could live with.

After around two months, riding almost every weekend.
Now went to ride the bike, once I got the right temperature, closed the choke, and rpm immediately start to go down until bike dies, if I close the throttle fast it will idle, but that gives me the time to pull clutch in and reach the choke to open it. I also noticed sometimes a clicking sound from the carburettors, at least I think it was coming from there.
Lets say that bike only runs through gears and moves forward with the choke open until a position where when I stop it idles at 2k rpm.
This sounds a bit as the older problem, but in a smaller scale.

I contacted the guy he said he doesn't know, he would have to see...

Not much big of a service client, but that is very typical in Holland.

Do you guys here, ever experienced this problem?

A few things i would check is carb sync-float height-cracked intakes under the carbs-holes in the silde diaphrams.

 

[Born2Ride]

Got finally more info to update. So I went back to the guy (Vmax specialist) with the bike and he did another carb service.
I picked up the bike back, filled the gas tank and counter on zeros, it seems to be running normal until now.
So yesterday I got for the first time the red light and it was marking 73 miles on the counter (very close to the 65 miles I was getting before with the stage 1 needles and springs), didn't ride it hard, no vboost since is disconnected because the servo box is broken.
The carb setting is stock as I asked the guy to do it and as the rest of the bike is, now my question is, is there still something wrong here with the fuel mileage for a 20.000 miles gen1 stock vmax?
If so, is there anything I can do that does not require the removal of the carbs?

Again, would appreciate a lot your expertise advise from you guys for this matter.

 

[Born2Ride]

A few things i would check is carb sync-float height-cracked intakes under the carbs-holes in the silde diaphrams.

By the way, he said that he did check and there was nothing wrong there.

 

[ga_max]

With my stock 94, not ridden very hard I get about 110 miles before the light comes on although I normally keep my tank full to prevent rust. Checking mileage when I fill up I normally get around 30 mpg.

 

[blaxmax]

I just read the 5 pages of this thread and never was there mention of the size of your main jets--Do you know what size they are?

 

[Born2Ride]

I just read the 5 pages of this thread and never was there mention of the size of your main jets--Do you know what size they are?

They are 152.5

 

[blaxmax]

Most likely the stock jets that came with it. Have you thought about dropping to a 150? The stock jets were a little rich and not only will you pick up some mileage it will probably pick up some hp. They do like to run a little lean.

 

[Born2Ride]

With my stock 94,not ridden very hard I get about 110 miles before the light comes on although I normally keep my tank full to prevent rust. Checking mileage when I fill up I normally get around 30 mpg.

That is quite some difference there.
Then for sure something must be very wrong with mine.
The guy who did the two carb services said that usually it's 85 miles until the light. ...
Is there some adjustment that I could easily check?

 

[Born2Ride]

[QUOTEblaxmax;422045]Most likely the stock jets that came with it. Have you thought about dropping to a 150? The stock jets were a little rich and not only will you pick up some mileage it will probably pick up some hp. They do like to run a little lean.[/QUOTE]

Never heard of it. when you say pick up some hp, you mean loose?

 

[davesax36]

No. Unburned fuel isn't giving you any power, but it is taking up space when compressed (at least that's how I think of it). A more efficient burn yields more power and better mileage. Also, 85 miles to the light is not normal.

 

[Miles Long]

Most likely the stock jets that came with it. Have you thought about dropping to a 150? The stock jets were a little rich and not only will you pick up some mileage it will probably pick up some hp. They do like to run a little lean.

03, completely stock engine, carbs, exhaust. No carb issues, other than the need to clean the a/f needle assemblies (once) Mileage is about 190 kilometers(118 miles) per tank.
It would be sooooooo groovy to be able to increase mileage, just by simply dropping the main jets down a size or two! Also, just as easy to go back to stock, if this didn't work out.
Has anyone else besides Mr. Blax been able to increase their mileage, by just changing the mains?
Cheers!