Blown Ignition Fuse

[MaxMidnight]

Wow that is a wake up call, thank you. You're right I should have been using resistance from the beginning instead of continuity testing the harness,

'Fraid I disagree.

As the fuse is blowing that would suggest a short somewhere.
The resistance between two points is not relevant. Besides, do you know what the correct resistance should be?

To establish which circuit has a short I would disconnect the circuit in question from it's components, set my meter to ohms (or continuity if you have that function), black probe to an earth point (e.g. frame) and then probe each of the contacts.
The meter will show open circuit if the wire is intact and show a small resistance if there is a short.
If you are blessed with a third hand also wiggle the loom to see if that makes any difference.

Print out a copy of the wiring diagram and work along the ignition circuit starting at the fuse.
Note which circuit you have checked on the diagram.

The key to successful diagnosis is to work through in a logical manner, resist the temptation to dive in or follow a hunch.

 

[02GF74]

Wow that is a wake up call, thank you. You're right I should have been using resistance from the beginning instead of continuity testing the harness, I've redone my tests.

I was going to add, but deleted it, that if there are semiconductor devices e.g. diodes/transistor in the circuit, then that will skew resistance values.

I will need to look at the wiring diagram out to see if I can make sense of your readings but usually when there is a fuse blowing type condition, the way to find the culprit is to unplug everything then start to plug items in one by one until the fuse blows. I need to review the thread as you may have already identified the part responsible.

 

[SquatchTech]

As the fuse is blowing that would suggest a short somewhere.

I need to review the thread as you may have already identified the part responsible.

Yes, I have found why the fuse blows as stated b4

Well I found the culprit, it's a coil. However, the coil failed via an internal short.

Besides, do you know what the correct resistance should be?

This is why I included cylinder 2

the way to find the culprit is to unplug everything then start to plug items in one by one until the fuse blows.

That's how I found the bad coil.

The question at this point is

What's up with this location and it's desire to burn up coils??? LoL

What I found today is that the red/white wire seems to be connected to ground, however, this is not true. It is simply back feeding through the splice from switched 12v, keeping that in mind the red/white is healthy. Comparing cylinder 2 and 4 together, keep in mind that #4 burns coils #2 does not nor does #3 & #1, looking at my readings I'm 85% confident that I fried my TCI.

 

[Screwloose]

Just a small addition; if comparing resistance values against a written specification, you need to take away the resistance of your test leads, as the written specification will have done that already.
Touch the leads together on ohms, and your now reading your specific leads resistance. It should be low at about 0.1, but if your comparing low values it can bring your readings into range.
Also you can test a diode with a basis multi-tester as current flows in one direction, but is blocked in the opposite direction, some meters have a basic diode test on them.

 

[SquatchTech]

Thank you to all who responded, I have gone ahead and bought the Ignitech TCI from Sean. I'll post back when it's installed.

 

[Parminio]

Thank you to all who responded, I have gone ahead and bought the Ignitech TCI from Sean. I'll post back when it's installed.

Got any hair left at this point?

 

[SquatchTech]

Got any hair left at this point?

Lol I'm about to get the rest of it taken care of

 

[SquatchTech]

Got the Ignitech TCI hooked up, wow this thing is tiny. Now I don't know why it won't start.

This is the email I sent to Sean.

I can't get the bike to start. I've noticed that the wires for the coils were in the wrong location so I change them around in the adapter harness. I tried starting the bike b4 & after doing so, I found that the bike is more cooperative with the correction. I've reconnected everything back up. The servo, fuel pump, map, crank position are all functioning.

I need help.

 

[SquatchTech]

I'm fairly certain that I have taken care of the bigger bugs now, I mean I did put about 85 miles on the bike yesterday with no problems.

I think this is... Was my issue. However, I'm still not sure if that jumper plate should be there. It looks factory but causes problems and non of the wire diagrams show a splice between the lug & the red/white wire.

Anyway so far so good!

 

[desert_max]

Cool! You sure earned it!

 

[SquatchTech]

Cool! You sure earned it!

It's about time too lol. This bike is a HUGE hand full not only am I getting roughly three times the power, then my 400 HondaMatic, I'm also getting 3 more gears plus a clutch. Also with all the work I've put into this thing it has a lot more features to play with as well, mostly do to the Ignitech I got from Sean.

.... OHH, I keep forgetting the v-boost is currently disabled

You mean there's more lol

 

[Fire-medic]

I doubt the 400cc Honda parallel-twin makes more than 30 RWHP, and you still don't have a functional VBoost? Well, you haven't begun to experience a VMax!

I was just up in Palm Coast to pick-up a Kamado Joe grille with our son. He's already cooked us two delicious holiday meals, one for Noche Buena and one for New Year's Eve.

Let me know when you get stuck on the repairs, and take it to my friend's shop in Ft. Lauderdale.

 

[SquatchTech]

I doubt the 400cc Honda parallel-twin makes more than 30 RWHP

Agreed

Let me know when you get stuck on the repairs, and take it to my friend's shop in Ft. Lauderdale.

Thx I'll keep that in mind, FM. Yeah, last night going home I did a full throttle pull in 5th gear... I now know what a slipping clutch feels like, it also slips in 4th. Time for more upgrades.

 

[one2dmax]

Here's the different starter relay types (pictures are named).

 

[Fire-medic]

I recommend the PCW 'extra OEM friction disc' and heavy-duty diaphragm spring, and case gasket set. It's the OEM friction discs, plus one-more, to replace the innermost half-width friction disc and spring which rides on the clutch hub, acting as a sort of slipper clutch. The heavy-duty diaphragm spring provides more clamping power, and is easier on your hand than the double-diaphragm spring modification. It contains the case gasket too, just add oil., and rough-up the surfaces of the 'steelies,' after checking them for bluing and warpage.

I suggest a call to PCW to order, instead of trying to do it online. I am a customer.

PCW Racing Home Page (artedelstein.com)

 

[SquatchTech]

You still don't have a functional VBoost? Well, you haven't begun to experience a VMax!

I replaced my clutch today & enabled the servo in the Ignitech, OH MY GOODNESS!!! Man you are right when that servo opens it's night & day, it's soo dramatic. It has changed the entire character of the bike.

Ok, Ok, I might be overly dramatic on purpose here but still, I need to get use to this bike once more. I've put ~1100 miles since the new year with 3 Ignition fuse blown in that time. As long as I have spares I'm good... So far