broke where the oil filter screws on

[mymax04]

that sucks. its a good looking bike. Chrome Kerker and stage 7, but I may have to pass it up. guy wants 1500 for it

 

[Traumahawk]

1500 isnt a bad price even if you have to fix it. If you put 1000 into it...then you have 2500 total....and I think the bike is worth that (Assuming it runs, doesnt have 2nd gear issues...etc)

 

[mymax04]

im thinkin im thinkin.....a guy would thimk he could get his money back for that price...:hmmm:

 

[mymax04]

Did somemore digging and found what someone may have mentioned. so this would fix that? http://www.cycleoneoff.com/Vmaxspin-onkits.html

of course the brace would need changed

 

[marsmax85]

I put one on my bike very simple came with cross bar .I dont see why it wouldn't work unspin adapter and clean clan behind it at oil changes unless its cracked further back . Nice looking bike and a 1500 would look kinda nice in there !!

 

[mymax04]

Cycle one said something about having to weld it in.... I havent got an answer back on why or what yet

 

[Fire-medic]

Yeah, that's this bike: http://desmoines.craigslist.org/mcy/3980451333.html
If you had a beater, then you could probably make this work. Too-expensive for a non-runner, my opinion. He does leave the door-open for some wiggle-room on price. Not knowing how the engine was affected, I would still want it at a non-runner price lower than his asking price, say 1/2.

When I bought my '92 in '93, and made friends with the dealer's resident VMax mechanic, one of the first things he told me was, "be careful of loading your bike into a vehicle or trailer!" Why? Because of this! He said he had seen it happen multiple times.

 

[sdt354]

wonder what it would take to fix this on an 89 motor

I've seen this fixed before by welding it. You can use a spin-on adapter. If it were me, I'd have the adapter welded in place. It should be able to be fixed in the frame with the cross member removed. a late model cross member will be needed with the spin on adapter. There is an adapter on E-bay for $65.00 or Tom from Cycle One off has them all the time. All is not lost. I'm thinking total cost under $400.00 to fix this and be riding again.
Steve

 

[sdt354]

Duplicate post.

 

[one2dmax]

it's not that easy of a fix to simply put the adapter kit on there. You have to have a good sealing flange for the adapter kit to seal all the way around the original oring mounting location. Welding up the block is not easy either since it is saturated with oil (as has already been mentioned).

 

[Rusty McNeil]

it's not that easy of a fix to simply put the adapter kit on there. You have to have a good sealing flange for the adapter kit to seal all the way around the original oring mounting location. Welding up the block is not easy either since it is saturated with oil (as has already been mentioned).

+1, adapter has to have a seating surface.

If it was me I'd go with the hose connectors screwed straight into the block. and remote filter route like in Sean's other post.

Or replace the lower case.

 

[mymax04]

Thanks for your help guys. we pictured having to put that adapter on there & we came up with the same answer. (mounting surface)

For anyone that does wanna tackle it, the guy said he might take a grand for it

 

[sdt354]

I've got a bottom case. Guess where it's repaired? lol. The weld is too ugly to take a picture of, but it's strong. Passed a hammer test. My question is, is the motor ok? I'd buy it cheap enough where if I had to replace the engine it'd still be worth my while. $1000-$1200.
Steve-o

 

[sdt354]

+1, adapter has to have a seating surface.

If it was me I'd go with the hose connectors screwed straight into the block. and remote filter route like in Sean's other post.

Or replace the lower case.

Probably the best fix Rusty. I don't feel comfy with welding done to critical areas, but that just me. Like Rick and Sean pointed out, the oil contamination would make most welders turn it away.
Steve-o

 

[Miles Long]

wonder what it would take to fix this on an 89 motor

Yikes! Seeing that, and now knowing it's not a rare injury, makes me want to install a skid plate.
But as far as the injury.....I'd get a machinist's opinion. How difficult would it be to construct a new sealing surface out of thin -wall steel plate, and mechanically attach it to what remains of the original casting? No welding needed - use bolts or screws with o-ring seals. Of course the new piece would have to be dished out and drilled to fit the oil passages.
Any of our resident machinists care to comment?

 

[one2dmax]

Keeping a seal that will prevent leakage at over 70-80psi is not easy.

 

[Fire-medic]

I think if you looked at the bearing code and found another case half w/the same code, you might have a better chance of having the bore for the crank match. I have always thought you needed to replace both as pairs, but Sean also has said not necessarily-so.

As said in another thread block it off & change the oil more often or put a remote oil filter on it. I have seen plenty of lower cases changed with out matching them up & had no problems but to each there own.

 

[silverado6x6]

I know this is an older thread but still it has very useful information, my Vmax has the same problem, PO dropped it off a trailer and broke the lower boss off, happened 15 years ago, no pieces available, bike was abandoned to a relative put in storage and now I have it.

I like that idea of the plate and tube, I wish I had a milling machine. I have bought the lower case from the same year, its in the mail but I'm not ready to tear down the motor just yet, meanwhile I will try to just do a bypass with some fittings, trick is how to get and keep a fitting in the return, its rather too shallow to get a tap in it, but I might have some aluminum tube that will press fit and with my alum wire feed put a tack weld or two to retain it, just so I can start bike and see what shape the motor is in.
Makes a person really consider an armored skid plate to prevent this from happening in the first place.

 

[Fire-medic]

It's pretty unusual for it to happen in normal use. When I first bought my '92 in '93 from the Yamaha dealer, my mechanic friend who still is working as a line Yamaha mechanic told me to avoid catching the oil filter housing on a trailer lip when loading/unloading, just to prevent this from happening. I am sure a machinist could whip something up to get around this, and it may have the added benefit of relocating the oil filter for easier service.

I know this is an older thread but still it has very useful information, my Vmax has the same problem, PO dropped it off a trailer and broke the lower boss off, happened 15 years ago, no pieces available, bike was abandoned to a relative put in storage and now I have it.

I like that idea of the plate and tube, I wish I had a milling machine. I have bought the lower case from the same year, its in the mail but I'm not ready to tear down the motor just yet, meanwhile I will try to just do a bypass with some fittings, trick is how to get and keep a fitting in the return, its rather too shallow to get a tap in it, but I might have some aluminum tube that will press fit and with my alum wire feed put a tack weld or two to retain it, just so I can start bike and see what shape the motor is in.
Makes a person really consider an armored skid plate to prevent this from happening in the first place.

 

[silverado6x6]

Well after an hour of tapping and adapting I made an oil bypass, BUT.......


Took the stator cover off and was cleaning it out and tried to turn motor over by hand, crankshaft is broken.
So next step is to get all the info of taking an 83 1200 engine and putting it in, that motor has 17,000 miles on it and runs, rest of bike was in a house fire so body is kinda crispy.
I believe the heads have different cams and valves and everything on up? Lighter flywheel?
Will start a thread on this.