one2dmax
Well-Known Member
OK, I don't know if I told my dad to make sure they don't blast that area? We are used to putting in new after we get done with a build.
Broken parts and shrapnel
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[email protected]
Well-Known Member
No worries, blast away! The good race was removed. I can't see replacing the good one. It only has a few hundred miles on it.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
I'm finally getting around to putting the bike back together. Thanks goes out to Sean with help on swingarm surgery.
Rebuilt the output shaft last night. The OE one felt a little rough once I put the new yoke on. Not sure if I tightened up the pinion nut a bit too much or what. I figured a I should not install something that I did not feel good about. I decided to dissect the donor output shaft to see how this thing works. I was expecting it to be a major PIA but really, was not too bad at all.
I pressed the pinion out of the donor carrier, removed the crush collar, then did the same with the OE unit. I put the OE pinion in the donor carrier, measured the crush collars and used the longer of the two and reassembled. Put it back together so now I have OE pinion in the donor carrier with the yoke assembly. I was thinking about doing this from the beginning because I was unsure of the condition of my output shaft seal and the carrier looked like it had been thru hell. Now, it looks like new. I used a thread file on the pinon threads as the end of the threads were distorted from being staked and filled with thread lock. Cleaned it all up and slowly torqued while tigtening the nut. I was able to hit the torque spec and still rotate the bearings. Everything felt right, the bearings turn with little rotating torque and I could not detect any play.
I staked the nut, installed a new spicer u-joint, installed the second half of the yoke, then put the output shaft back into the bike and shimmed it up.
Hoping to get the rest of the bike back together soon so I can test it out!
Rebuilt the output shaft last night. The OE one felt a little rough once I put the new yoke on. Not sure if I tightened up the pinion nut a bit too much or what. I figured a I should not install something that I did not feel good about. I decided to dissect the donor output shaft to see how this thing works. I was expecting it to be a major PIA but really, was not too bad at all.
I pressed the pinion out of the donor carrier, removed the crush collar, then did the same with the OE unit. I put the OE pinion in the donor carrier, measured the crush collars and used the longer of the two and reassembled. Put it back together so now I have OE pinion in the donor carrier with the yoke assembly. I was thinking about doing this from the beginning because I was unsure of the condition of my output shaft seal and the carrier looked like it had been thru hell. Now, it looks like new. I used a thread file on the pinon threads as the end of the threads were distorted from being staked and filled with thread lock. Cleaned it all up and slowly torqued while tigtening the nut. I was able to hit the torque spec and still rotate the bearings. Everything felt right, the bearings turn with little rotating torque and I could not detect any play.
I staked the nut, installed a new spicer u-joint, installed the second half of the yoke, then put the output shaft back into the bike and shimmed it up.
Hoping to get the rest of the bike back together soon so I can test it out!
95spfldmax
Well-Known Member
Good news Mike...........
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
Good news indeed
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Got it all back together this morning and did a shakedown run. So far its all good!
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[email protected]
Well-Known Member
It was a big relief to get it back on the road. For a brief moment I thought I may be looking for a new motor or parting it out.
probably the same thought that went thru my mind when i snapped a bolt off on my hawk on the drum shift selector. either way very glad to hear it buddy.
what clutch did you have? maybe a less grippy one this time?
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
DD clutch. Half friction, spring, spring seat, and retaining wire eliminated. Installed one barnett friction in their place.
do you think a PCW, barnet or even stock setup woulda saved your output yoke?
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
Anything that would have allowed slippage may have helped.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
I would say, yes.
I honestly think that the weight of a passenger is the straw that broke the camels back so to say....
I was on the same road, riding in the same manner the day before. Difference was, I was getting some wheelspin when banging the gears solo. When I was 2-up, there was no wheelspin. It just hooked up like a motherf*&ker!
Guess between the extended arm, extra weight, good tire and DD clutch there was a lot of grip and something needed to give. I was really surprised that it was not the driveshaft that broke.
I guess its not a good idea to speedshift at 9800 rpm with a passenger. I will quit doing that. I'm sure my wife won't mind too much.
Again, big thanks to Sean for direction on how to weld it up and for swingarm repairs!
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
Interesting thread, and I'm glad you were able to get the case repaired. That welding job looks like it's bulletproof! It surprises me too that the driveshaft held up and the UJoint took the hit. Good fix for a potential catastrophe, you're lucky something from the busted parts didn't jam and lock the wheel.
