can you still get these?

[huskyman510]

I am chaseing the control unit (black box) where the vboost runs through.

Does anyone have one or can you buy them new, or where to pick one up from. Im in Aus with very little spares available.

After much testing I believe this is my problem that im not able to get my boost going.
Not experience enough to re-solder anything in there.

Also does this box run anything else?

Thanks in advance

 

[KDIMD]

I live in the Philippines. I got mine from Sean Morley. You can also find off of ebay. Will have to forward it to Aus.

Only runs the vboost.

 

[fullhouse]

Where In aus mate? In Sydney? Ill come have a look if ya like

 

[Tex85]

Looks like Perth, not exactly around the corner from Sidney. I think that's about as far as you can be from each other on the big ol' island of yours.

 

[huskyman510]

Yeah Perth, found one on ebay wants $40 + Shipping so prob $100
No way of knowing it works though
Part shark has em new for $278 + shipping, but would like a cheapy just to confirm this is the issue

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Should be less in shipping. you still have the option of first class USPS. i should say it should be in the vicinity of 25 USD. Better option is to pack it himself and ship on weight rather than getting a prepaid box.

 

[Miles Long]

Mr. Huskyman, if you are sure it's an internal problem in the unit, why not just take it to an electronics repair shop? The problem may be obvious once the unit is opened (such as a broken connection), and repair cost would be minimal.
If it was something else, if you had a schematic of the wiring associated with the v boost system, the shop could most likely fix it.
Cheers!

 

[huskyman510]

Mr. Huskyman, if you are sure it's an internal problem in the unit, why not just take it to an electronics repair shop? The problem may be obvious once the unit is opened (such as a broken connection), and repair cost would be minimal.
If it was something else, if you had a schematic of the wiring associated with the v boost system, the shop could most likely fix it.
Cheers!

opened it up myself and checked, all seemed or looked visually ok but 12v going in and only 3v coming out. electronics shop said anywhere from $100-$200 to look at and fix- thats if there was anything outa place?

Servo works(tested), 12v running through all wires except on the way from box to servo, have tboost installed and tested with and without.
No whirr at key turn and no opening of butterflys at any revs.
Is there anything else I havent checked??

 

[95spfldmax]

A lot of times you can squeeze & twist the vboost control box while power is on and the servo will respond if there is indeed a "loose connection" inside the box or with the harnessing. That would usually indicate a bad solder joint or cracked PCB issue.

 

[Miles Long]

opened it up myself and checked, all seemed or looked visually ok but 12v going in and only 3v coming out. electronics shop said anywhere from $100-$200 to look at and fix- thats if there was anything outa place?

Servo works(tested), 12v running through all wires except on the way from box to servo, have tboost installed and tested with and without.
No whirr at key turn and no opening of butterflys at any revs.
Is there anything else I havent checked??

Have you joined the British site http://www.vmaxchat.co.uk ?
Huge amount of archived info, and with a lot of active members. It is administered by our own Maxmidnight, a Peter Sellers lookalike, and Shakespearean scholar.
Another active member is Wolfmax, who by all accounts is an electronics whiz, and has many posts dealing with repairs and alterations.
I wouldn't give up on the box just yet. Probably something very simple.
Another idea, completely "out of the box" (in fact, there IS no box!) would be to do away with the electronics, and hook the server up to a handlebar mounted choke cable. Manual boost, at any engine speed.
Cheers!

 

[[email protected]]

micromachine sells a aftermarket vboost controller. Sean is a dealer and I'm sure would ship to you.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

 

[huskyman510]

Have you joined the British site http://www.vmaxchat.co.uk ?
Huge amount of archived info, and with a lot of active members. It is administered by our own Maxmidnight, a Peter Sellers lookalike, and Shakespearean scholar.
Another active member is Wolfmax, who by all accounts is an electronics whiz, and has many posts dealing with repairs and alterations.
I wouldn't give up on the box just yet. Probably something very simple.
Another idea, completely "out of the box" (in fact, there IS no box!) would be to do away with the electronics, and hook the server up to a handlebar mounted choke cable. Manual boost, at any engine speed.
Cheers!

I was thinking that, instead of a manual choke cable a push button directly wired to servo, problem is i was wondering where to put that switch, I was thinking of connecting it to the horn button ie:instead of toot toot--vroom vroom. Not sure what it would be like trying to hit that button at speed.
I have also tried the squeeze and bend method with the box with ignition on and nothing.

 

[9.nub]

I was thinking that, instead of a manual choke cable a push button directly wired to servo, problem is i was wondering where to put that switch, I was thinking of connecting it to the horn button ie:instead of toot toot--vroom vroom. Not sure what it would be like trying to hit that button at speed.
I have also tried the squeeze and bend method with the box with ignition on and nothing.

The first problem with the horn button is that it cannot control both ways. You could wire it to either open or close the butterflies, but not to do both.

I've got a stage 7 carb kit with the Vmax guts removed and transplanted to a Max across the big pond. But I've sourced the butterflies in manifold and the servo motor. My plan is to mount a double throw momentary toggle which I will use to open or close the butterflies at my option. I don't envision location will be a concern because I'm not looking for the elegance of a RPM activation. Rather, I expect to open butterflies when I want to optimize power and close them when I'm putting along conserving fuel.

I don't know if this will meet my expectations, but I plan to give it a go. The problem is see is that my stage 7 kit is jetted to charge each cylinder with a pair of carbs. When I close the butterflies, I'm not certain how the jetting will respong. I am certain it won't be optimized and am hoping for a semblance of economized. I expect I have some carb tuning and compromising inherent in my experiment, but I look at the stage 7 kit as a different sort of compromise.

 

[fullhouse]

Sorry doesn't show locations on tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I was thinking that, instead of a manual choke cable a push button directly wired to servo, problem is i was wondering where to put that switch, I was thinking of connecting it to the horn button ie:instead of toot toot--vroom vroom. Not sure what it would be like trying to hit that button at speed.
I have also tried the squeeze and bend method with the box with ignition on and nothing.

If thats the way why not one of these from mountain bikes? It has steps to open the Vboost crossover. I think you may even be able to use a choke assembly from an early eighties venture1200? Am i correct? Isn't there a version of the left switch assembly with a choke lever underneath?

If you want to elaborate further why don't use a potentiometer just like on the RC kits to use the servo as a continuous step motor like it is supposed to work, instead of being slaved to the rpms just to a manual input or even regulated by a vacuum sensor.

 

[one2dmax]

The Venture used a mechanical choke lever and it bolted to the bottom of the switch housing. If you look on the bottom of the Vmax housing it's still got the provisions for it.

 

[Redbone]

If thats the way why not one of these from mountain bikes? It has steps to open the Vboost crossover. I think you may even be able to use a choke assembly from an early eighties venture1200? Am i correct? Isn't there a version of the left switch assembly with a choke lever underneath?

If you want to elaborate further why don't use a potentiometer just like on the RC kits to use the servo as a continuous step motor like it is supposed to work, instead of being slaved to the rpms just to a manual input or even regulated by a vacuum sensor.

+1 Fred, Mike aka Maxcruiser has had one of these mt bike vboost setups for a few years and it looks pretty slick. He's able to control both open and close settings with his left hand.

 

[maxcruiser]

The manual vboost is easy to install, either with a grip shifter from a mountain bike or the Venture choke lever.

I prefer the grip shifter, but that depends on what type of grips you have.

Here's a link to the old thread on that mod; http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=2198&highlight=manual+vboost

Mike

 

[Rusty McNeil]

A switch is going to be way more complicated than a single pole double throw. The polarity has to be reversed on the P & N to go open or closed, and the limit switches inside the servo aren't set up to be very useful for manual operation (as in cutting power when it's done opening or closing like you would need for a non momentary switch) so you need a DPDT spring return to center off position with momentary open or closed operating positions, then you just hold the switch till the motor stalls when it goes all the way open or closed and then release it to return to the center position ( the switch not the servo )

I ran this for a while and it worked fine, but honestly it's just easier to put the whole assembly back to normal with controller and use one simple switch to "trap" the servo wherever you want it while it's cycling.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

If you want to elaborate further why don't use a potentiometer just like on the RC kits to use the servo as a continuous step motor like it is supposed to work, instead of being slaved to the rpms just to a manual input or even regulated by a vacuum sensor.

I thought it was a stepper motor too until I took one apart and played with it, it's a conventional DC motor with limit switches to indicate full open or full closed, and if I remember right the open limit switch CLOSES at full open and the close limit CLOSES at full close making them not very useful for manual DC Reversing switch operation without complicating the circuit with interposing relays...