cant change gear

[abalus]

hello,
so i have a question because i read hole section on clutch and got lost. i have a problem that my clutch doesnt work properly. i cant change gears it gets stuck while motorcycle is cold. after some time it gets better but still changing gears is really hard, so my season is over and im thinking where to look for problems? my initial thought was changing clutch friction disks but now i got doubt could it be friction disk problems or should i check somewhere else?
sorry for my language, english isnt native for me.

 

[Damon]

Abalus,
The first thing I would be doing is to flush & bleed the hydraulic clutch system. If that doesn't solve your issue next I would rebuild the clutch master cylinder & clutch slave cylinder. Good Luck & keep us posted as to what resolves your issue.

 

[abalus]

thanks for the response ok ill try that and will post if it did help :thumbs up:

 

[sdt354]

hello,
so i have a question because i read hole section on clutch and got lost. i have a problem that my clutch doesnt work properly. i cant change gears it gets stuck while motorcycle is cold. after some time it gets better but still changing gears is really hard, so my season is over and im thinking where to look for problems? my initial thought was changing clutch friction disks but now i got doubt could it be friction disk problems or should i check somewhere else?
sorry for my language, english isnt native for me.

How does it shift up on the center stand while turning the rear wheel, clutch
engaged? Even if you have to back off the slave to make sure. I'm getting at the segment possibly being an issue.
Steve

 

[putin]

you can also try change/check oil, or experiment with different types of oil. I switched to Rotella, now it's hard to find neutral when bike is cold.

 

[one2dmax]

Difficulty finding neutral MIGHT be this remedy.

 

[abalus]

cant be oil everything was fine did about 2000 kilometers on it with clean new oil and just then everything started to go wrong. at first it was just hard to swicht gears but after couple more runs it got impossible while the engine is running. you can swich from neutral to first or second but cant go after that to any gear. also while motorcycle is cold even when i swich from neutral to first or second and the clutch is still pushed motorcycle starts to move and i have to use brakes to hold it .
i hope i will find some time tomorrow to look at hidraulic system and maybe to disassemble clutch for friction plates inspection.
dont think i will find someone to help me spin a wheel but ill try. what should i look doing it and what should it mean?
thanks for ideas if you have more please share. have couple months till season is open. dont want to miss it

 

[putin]

Interesting. Keep posted how you will fix it.
Thank's one2Dmax for neutral pic.

 

[Dorney]

cant be oil everything was fine did about 2000 kilometers on it with clean new oil and just then everything started to go wrong. at first it was just hard to swicht gears but after couple more runs it got impossible while the engine is running. you can swich from neutral to first or second but cant go after that to any gear. also while motorcycle is cold even when i swich from neutral to first or second and the clutch is still pushed motorcycle starts to move and i have to use brakes to hold it .
i hope i will find some time tomorrow to look at hidraulic system and maybe to disassemble clutch for friction plates inspection.
dont think i will find someone to help me spin a wheel but ill try. what should i look doing it and what should it mean?
thanks for ideas if you have more please share. have couple months till season is open. dont want to miss it

Does the clutch lever feel normal when you use it ?

 

[abalus]

Does the clutch lever feel normal when you use it ?

was feeling a little lose till i added some fluid and checked before removing master cylinder.

so was doing some stuff today...
master cylinder was allmost empty :bang head: filled it up bubbles and dirt showed up from the lines.... so i took master cylinder out will be cleaning it and rebuilding it. thinking of taking out slave cylinder to. there was so much dirt that even master cylinder check window is half covered. looks like i got a really dirty vmax :blink000: i hope ill have some time tomorrow to take a look at friction plates...

 

[Fire-medic]

If you recently bought this, you need to change all fluids, including front forks, both brakes, and clutch. Look for info in the website search function on the 'reverse bleed' process as it will make your time to bleed hydraulics much faster.

I would also suggest taking a look at the factory manual which is also on here, and re-torquing, after loosening, all fasteners. Sounds like someone ignored basic maintenance, and now you have to protect your life by assuring your fasteners are properly done. I suggest the brake discs just be checked for being torqued without loosening, as they frequently need heat and an impact driver or air wrench and the proper Allen wrench to loosen. And, NEVER heat a wheel which has a tire holding pressure! It can explode and kill you! If you want to do work like that, 'hot work,' then remove the valve stem completely first, if not the tire from the wheel. Also check wheel bearing grease, and you might consider cleaning and re-greasing them. Test them for excess wear by grabbing the wheel at the top and bottom, and trying to wiggle them from side to side, any play, and it's time to replace bearings.

Sounds like oil and air filters need to be replaced because of the lack of maintenance. An air filter can appear OK but is clogged beyond its normal service life. Better check the brake pads, replace them w/ an HH compound for better stopping, and clean as-much grime as you can off the pistons before using a c-clamp to puch them back-into the caliper. You may find it easier to clean the pistons by leaving the hose hooked to the caliper, but by removing the caliper from its mounting point, to make it easier to remove the grime. Spray brake cleaner and scotchbrite green pads, or narrow strips of wet & dry fine sandpaper, and perhaps a toothbrush retired from normal duty can get into tight places. You can remove the dust covers from each piston, do the cleaning, and after cleaning the dust covers, replace them onto the pistons and caliper.

 

[sdt354]

cant be oil everything was fine did about 2000 kilometers on it with clean new oil and just then everything started to go wrong. at first it was just hard to swicht gears but after couple more runs it got impossible while the engine is running. you can swich from neutral to first or second but cant go after that to any gear. also while motorcycle is cold even when i swich from neutral to first or second and the clutch is still pushed motorcycle starts to move and i have to use brakes to hold it .
i hope i will find some time tomorrow to look at hidraulic system and maybe to disassemble clutch for friction plates inspection.
dont think i will find someone to help me spin a wheel but ill try. what should i look doing it and what should it mean?
thanks for ideas if you have more please share. have couple months till season is open. dont want to miss it [/QUOTE

In a situation like this, I'd make sure the clutch is fully engaged. No issues with the components(master, slave, fluid, lever). Take the screws holding the slave out. Pull the slave free. Now you know it;s not a less than full clutch engagement issue caused by anything external of the clutch basket . Turn the wheel while shifting through the gears. If shifting is troublesome pull the clutch cover and basket out. You'll be able to access the segment in the pic Sean posted. This is the easy stuff to eliminate. After this if still an issue it becomes involved.
Clutch disk do stick sometimes on a bike that is sitting for long periods. I've had to rock my bike back and forth to free them up. That's all I can think of before cracking the cases open for inspection.
Steve-o

 

[Fire-medic]

Clutch disk do stick sometimes on a bike that is sitting for long periods

Back in the mid-1970's when the Z-1 had just been released, I had a Kawi 500 two-stroke triple that I loved running hard, and beating up on as-many H-D's as I could. My roommate had a first-year 1000 cc Sportster he bought new, and he never could beat me, except on resale value. I'd leave him in a blue haze of Klotz whenever he tried to 'pull the trigger.'

The Mach III had a Barnett clutch disc set I installed, and those durn things would always stick-together overnight. You'd better be holding onto the front brake when you put the bike into gear after kick-starting it (yes, grandchildren, no 'electric foot!') because the stuck-together plates would cause the bike to jump forward the first time you put it into gear. After that, it would release fine but there was no 'pulling in the clutch and selecting first gear, without it trying to jump forward out of the gate,' the first ride of the day.

I haven't heard of such things happening to modern bikes, but it could happen, and I think a lack of proper oil changing would probably make that worse.

One of my firefighter friends had his own shop, and was always wheeling & dealing. He did mechanics and bodywork, and he did me well over time. I bought a few things off him and had a lot of stuff painted or serviced. He was a die-hard H-D guy, and was always ribbing me about running whatever 'jap crap' I happened to be riding. He never did pony-up and run heads-up against anything I had, though after I bought a year-old FZR1000, I tried to get him to commit-no dice. Anyway, he had a Lotus Elan he acquired somewhere, and that had not been run in years. That had a clutch which was stuck to the pressure plate, and he theorized it had been in a flood and rusted together. I don't know if it was a 'weed line' or what on the car or possibly tadpoles in the floorpan that made him think that. Anyway, clutch plates can and do stick, so that's something to consider.

 

[abalus]

so finally got some time and changed brake fluid in all brakes and clutch it was nasty... then disasebled both master cylinders did clean up and put all together. then disassembled clutch. friction plates are all black and clutch plates also has burned marks so i ordered new set waiting for parts to arrive and hope it will solve all my problems. also found oil leaking from rear cylinder. looks like gasket below cylinder headcover did its job and now have to replace it. so yea looks like i got really beaten Vmax

 

[blaxmax]

I haven't heard of a newer model's segment going out on this site but that sound like it. Anyone every heard of a newer one going out? It would be a good idea tho check while waiting for the clutches.

 

[maleko89]

No, not since it's one piece.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[one2dmax]

Only issue i've ever seen with the newer segment is with a bolt backing out that held the segment in. That was on a brand new shift drum as well. Must have been made on the morning after a Japanese Holiday!

 

[abalus]

what segment your talking about?

 

[blaxmax]

what segment your talking about?

abalus, I wouldn't worry about your segment as it is the newer model.
I can send you some info if you want it though.

 

[blaxmax]

This is an upgrade for the older models, I believe yours is the newer one.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10938