Can't draw fuel from tank...

[tugla]

float needles sticking, tap the carb bodies with mallet all around and see if it stops....but with all four stuck might have to get inside her and check it out

 

[david_the_greek]

OK time for an update. Well, I took the fake tank and scoops off and tried to start her up. Fuel was flushing out from the carb vent lines.

I took off the fuel line from the carb bodies (only the right side, left side is fine) and spray carb cleaner in, with the drain fully open on the other side. Saw this in another post, may have to try it a few times but it worked on the rear right carb (no longer seems to be spitting fuel) but not the front right carb. The bike started up and stayed running! Other than the fact that it was pissing all over, I'd say a step in the right direction. I tried whacking with a rubber mallet as well, but the front right is still spewing. After work I'm going to have another go at it with the cleaner.

On a side note, when I turn the bike on the oil in the sight glass disappears completely, is this normal? I'm assuming yes as the oil has to circulate around the engine etc, but was just concerned as I saw a little bit of smoke coming off the bike and smelled something, then saw the sight glass empty (I put in 4 quarts at the oil change)

 

[NHVmaxpower]

That is normal for the oil in the glass to disapear. If the bikes been sitting for a few months /years you will smell settlment burning off the motor that is also normal. If the smell/smoke doesnt go away after running to normal temp check for a oil leak.

 

[naughtyG]

Just out of interest, have taken a good look inside your fuel tank? If you see any rust, that's your problem: the rust dust particles will get right through the fuel filter and into your fuel bowls, and stop the needle valves from sealing. Then fuel will keep coming through from the pump as the pressure in the bowls won't build, it'll piss from everywhere..

Been there, done that. If your tank's rusty, get another one or treat it.

It's normal for the oil to disappear from the window while the motor runs btw. It should show between the two lines on the sight glass with the engine warm and turned off, and the bike upright (on center stand) to be correct.

 

[gamorg02]

OK time for an update. Well, I took the fake tank and scoops off and tried to start her up. Fuel was flushing out from the carb vent lines.

I took off the fuel line from the carb bodies (only the right side, left side is fine) and spray carb cleaner in, with the drain fully open on the other side. Saw this in another post, may have to try it a few times but it worked on the rear right carb (no longer seems to be spitting fuel) but not the front right carb. The bike started up and stayed running! Other than the fact that it was pissing all over, I'd say a step in the right direction. I tried whacking with a rubber mallet as well, but the front right is still spewing. After work I'm going to have another go at it with the cleaner.

On a side note, when I turn the bike on the oil in the sight glass disappears completely, is this normal? I'm assuming yes as the oil has to circulate around the engine etc, but was just concerned as I saw a little bit of smoke coming off the bike and smelled something, then saw the sight glass empty (I put in 4 quarts at the oil change)

don't smack the carbs go lightly at first. don't go too hard.

and yes thats normal.

 

[david_the_greek]

woops, I SMACKED the carbs good...

 

[david_the_greek]

I'm going to try to get a torx security bit tomorrow to get that dang carb cover off. Quick question guys, now I fully expect to have to rip the carbs apart this winter and completely go through them and synch them, BUT can I rip the cover off and clean the internals of 1-2 carbs and not have to synch them? Basically what I'm asking is, is it necessary to synch if I don't remove the carb from the bike? If I just take the cover off and clean what I find immediately in front of me

 

[alorio1]

Use a small needle nose vice grip pliers and lock onto the torx head screw and when you get it out toss it. Then take one of the other screws to the hardware store and buy 4 just like it and you want have to worry with that type of screw again.

 

[Ost85vmax]

My 2 cents would be that if you are going to clean them in any way that changes how they function, and in your case it sounds like you have one carb not yet functioning quite right then yes plan on syncing them. If you have the tool needed it really takes longer for the bike to warm up then it does to sync them. If you dont have the tool then might as well get one. Doing carb work, so your gonna need it anyways. From my experience it can really make a difference, and once you get it down its 10 minutes to do max.

 

[[email protected]]

Carbs wont go out of synch by opening the diaphragm covers, removing diaphragms, and cleaning up what is directly in front of you.

Do you know the last time they were synched? It takes about 10 minutes with the proper tool. If you don't have a proper tool, you can make a homemade manometer. Do a search here on the forum for some ideas. It is very cheap to make.

Based on what you are describing, I would think the carbs need to come off and you need to split the carb rack in half (not all the way down to individual bodies but, at least in half) and open the float bowls and see what is going on in there. If you do that, you need to synch.

 

[sdt354]

+1 to all. You can inspect the diaphrams though and get a plan in place if they're bad, and get rid of the nasty OEM screws on the covers. Most use allen heads to replace them.
Steve-o

 

[NHVmaxpower]

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
Try this