Carb Cleaning for Free...sort of =)

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Tom
Your carbs are back together. All pretty and clean. One last step I need to recondition your diaphragms. Sitting out this last couple of weeks has caused them to stiffen up. They have been siliconed with a small dose of spray silicone for the last 24 hours.
Every single one of your float levels were off by over 2 mm. That was the longest part of the rebuild as I am meticulous. They have been set right in the middle of the band. Between that and your pilot jets being clogged I am confident your bike will be a whole new beast when you get them back.
Oh yeah you had a couple of mud wasps nest inside some of the unused screw holes. So as a precaution I cleaned them out real well and re-dipped them in the tank for 90 minutes. I am glad I did. There was some dirt left...No More:biglaugh:


Dave
Your carbs are going back in the tank tonight as a precaution from all the rust in them. While I am finishing up with Toms yours will be getting one last bath. I will have them together tonight.

Give me a call if you guys have any questions.
Cheers
 
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I didnt see the original post....guess I missed out.
will you be doing this again anytime soon?

This is on going. The first charity was all done but still raising money for an interperter for my Girl Friends Deaf son. He is going on a field trip to Washington DC, NY, Boston for a week in the summer and needs an interperter with him.

So anyone else that needs their carbs cleaned pretty damn cheap get them to me.
Takes about a week turn around. It took longer this time because I didnt have any parts in stock. I am stocking some up after christmas so for future jobs it is faster.
 
Tom
Your carbs are DONE:eusa_dance::eusa_dance::eusa_dance:
I know you are anxious to get them. I am sending them out this morning priority mail. I am confident you will be happy :biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

Dave
Your carbs are going back in the tank again. Some of the passages are still clogged. Need to pull out the extra strength heavy duty cleaner. No more Mr Nice Guy. If I have to I will use my SCUBA tank at 3000# of air to blow that **** out of there. :punk:

Cheers
 
Haha - glad you're doing this and not me!

Ha Ha. No worries, I just dip them while I am at work and walk away. The biggest culprit has been the drain port. All the others are fine but the rust set up in there pretty tough, it is coming but slowly.

Hope you cleaned that damn tank of yours cuz next time I wont be so nice.:biglaugh:

Cheers
 
New tank, freshly coated with POR15:

IMG_7688.jpg
 
Got the carbs back a couple of weeks ago (my thanks to Fargo) put the carbs on and haven't had a chance to reply until now ( too busy shoveling snow).
First of all, the carbs look great all nice and shinny. I have no doubt that they are as close to new as I could get.
I installed the carbs, pulled the choke, cycled the ignition off and on twice to get fuel to the bowls, hit the switch and the bike fired right up at 20deg temps. I had to set the idle screw up to get it run after backing the choke down. It didn't want to take a bunch of throttle at first but that improved as it warmed up. After about 3 minutes I was able to shut the choke down completely. The bike idles really well.
The problem I had was that when warmed up completely when I rev it the idle takes a long time time to return to idle. it doesn't matter if you bring the rev's up gently or WOT. I had the cables hooked up and I even put closing tension on the throttle plate to make sure that something wasn't sticking in cables or linkage. This is similar to how it was running before the rebuild. It did have a stumble while coming out of the idle cuircut before which is all but gone now. While doing the initial testing of the carbs I did not have the airbox or the breather installed. I have not set the a/f and have not tried to sync them. Obviously have not ridden it with all the snow on the ground and cold temps.
Any ideas what might cause the to return to idlee so slowly?

Thanks
 

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isn't that usually indicative of slides not retuning fast enough? what kind of condition are the springs in...?
 
If it is doing the same thing as before the rebuild then I would suggest taking off the air box, starting it up and shutting off the throttle and seeing if any of the needles dont return as quickly as the others.
When I did the rebuild all the springs were good, none of them were damaged.
The diaphragms did need some reconditioning so maybe one or more of the do need replaced.
Sorry about the weather out there it is 75 here today =)
 
I finally got a chance to work on the bike yesterday as it was a whole 40deg. out.
It fired right up on full choke. After about a minute I had to drop the choke down. It idled O.K. but would not take much if any throttle. It was popping back intermitently through the left front carb. After about 8 minutes I had the choke backed down all of the way. It still would not take much throttle without threatening to stall. I had to slowly pull back the throttle until I got the rev's up to 3-5k. I watched the slides and they seem to respond quickly and all returned back to idle position at the same time. I then hooked up my gauges to syncronize the carbs. They were out quite a bit. I finally got them close so and the idle stabilized at 1k. then I started cracking the throttle and the rev's would go up and either stay elevated or come down very, very slowly. Then it would drop to a stall and then I would have to set the idle back up and when I would rev it up it would drop slowly again and then be elevated at idle. Then took carb cleaner and sprayed completely around all of the boots on the carbs and around the boost plumbing and it did not seem to have any effect on idle. Also at no time could I get the rev's up above 5k. Any idea what I might check next? (in between snow storms and temp's in the teens?) Thanks Again.
 
Are you running it without the air cleaner/lid on? THAT will cause all sorts of issues.

You DID purge the lines of bad fuel or replaced them all right?



Chris
 
My first thought was sync. but u took care of that. second thought was air box possible but not to probable. hope he doesnt need shotgun those carbs were just completely tore apart and ultrasonic cleaned by urs truly. also use starting fluid to find a vacuum leak. not carb cleaner. check rubber covers over intake ports for small cracks. very common and often over looked
 
Yes, I was running it without the box so that I could watch the slides.
The tank and lines where flushed and filled with fresh fuel in October. I also added fuel preservative at fillups after that.
 
Doesn't a hanging idle suggest a lean condition with the pilot circuit? Which would make sense considering the temperature this time of year compared to Summer.
 
They will not run for **** without an airbox intact and in place. They will not rev. Once you modify it with air correctors for my kit or stage seven then it will rev up but still not run it's best until the filters are back in place and you even need to have the faux tank cover on.

Sean
 
Went to put the airbox back on and found that the flanges outside the box that conect to the carbs are hardened up so that I can't really get them onto the carbs completely. I'm sure that the cold tempuratures aren't helping. I took the box inside and noticed that the boot fit loosely into the box. Obviously the intake air is not being completely filtered.
Is there anything that will soften up or "recondition" the boots? are new ones available for a reasonable price?

Thanks
 
I'd try warming them first but you can seal the boots onto the box with some silicon.

Chris
 
If you need/want to replace them shoot

[email protected]

(that's his username and also his email address I think) a PM - I know he has some off a newer bike (in great condition) he was trying to sell.
 
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