Carb kits questions

[Relic]

Hello. Here's a question. My 88 needs the carbs cleaned and rebuilt due to a severely rusty fuel tank and the carbs being full of rust. I took care of the tank and sealed it with good result. But the cheap carb rebuild kit off i bought off ebay was terrible. The float needles rubbers disintegrated immediately and all 4 float needles stuck shut even though I was using alcohol free rec 90 gas. So my question is are the all balls kits of good quality? I would buy the KL kits but the all balls kits include stock style slide needles as well as everything else needed as I want to get the carbs jetting back to stock. Then I can get rid of the cobra tips and put the stock exhaust system back on.
Any experience you can impart on me is greatly appreciated as I am in above my pay grade on this...
Thanks

 

[Fire-medic]

I've used All Balls bearing kits, never their carburetor kits. In that capacity, the A-B products worked well.

I would go with OEM for the jets you need. The K&L carb rebuild kits I like, but they only have the float needle/seat in 'em, for brass. They may have other, more-complete kits. I'd suggest looking at Parts Unlimited for options in K&L offerings.

We're on spring riding time now, so you may want to get on the road ASAP. You could order one of the A-B kits and compare them to the OEM brass for shape, size, orifices, etc.

 

[Relic]

Ok thanks man, I'll probably get the abbreviated K&L kits x 4 coming my way. I'll indentify if the jets etc. are original and then just see the yamaha dealer for the others if necessary. I wanted to get the parts coming so when I get back to Michigan I can get it done fairly quickly and go.🏍

 

[Fire-medic]

Brass jets & parts usually don't 'go bad,' unless it's because of ham-fistedness by an owner. The float needle jet can have a weakened spring or a worn Viton tip, and those are available separately. I've bought a 5-pack of them from my local independent shop.

 

[Relic]

I installed most of the o rings and gaskets from the cheapo ebay kit. The one whose float needle rubbers immediately failed. So I've got about just as much confidence in the bowl gaskets, O rings etc. as in the float needles. Some of the parts weren't near the same as what was originally in the carbs. They could never fit. The emulsion tube was one. So i reused all the original brass parts. And now i will put all new in place of the gaskets and o rings . I should have listened when you suggested k&l last summer. I'm a cheapskate sometimes I think... It astounds me how they can spend so much effort to reproduce these parts and they look real close to the originals but then use a cheap rubber or synthetic compound that won't last a week. Lesson learned...

 

[CaptainKyle]

Watch out when ordering K&L make sure they are in the Blue packaging like FM posted. I just received some with the same part number but they were in white boxes and not the same. I sent them strait back they are knock offs and the gaskets are different.

 

[Relic]

Thank you for your response. I'll inquire with supplier as to the packaging before buying. That's about 8 hours of wasted time pulling them and rebuilding them that I'll never get back. I thought I was doing good running redline fuel system cleaner through the machine but I think it just knocked alot of rust loose in the tank, fuel pump, etc. The fuel filter caught some of it but not all. The bike went down to running on two cylinders as I think two of the little screens in the float needle assemblies were plugged. Hopefully all will be well after this is reworked. I used the fuel system cleaner as the original problem was one cylinder was loping at idle and I thought it might clean it out and clear that up. It had ran fine above 2000 rpm.
Thanks again.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Here is the seller I usually by from they are very dependable. Yamaha VMX12 VMAX V-Max 85-07 Basic Carburetor Repair Kit K&L18-2879 | eBay

 

[Relic]

Thanks CK

 

[Semi239]

Anybody else had to trim the float needle to get it to seat around the float? This is from the K+L kit next to the stock one. Stock is only 3/4 closed and the K+L is boxed in fully. See attached images.

 

[Fire-medic]

If you don't have 5 thumbs on each hand, the full-loop ones should be easy to fit. I never struggle to get those on.

 

[Semi239]

If you don't have 5 thumbs on each hand, the full-loop ones should be easy to fit

I definitely felt like an ***** trying to get them the float to slide in. I couldn't make it happen tho.


Am I approaching it wrong? I start by putting the needle in and then try to slide the float down into the loop.

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

I definitely felt like an ***** trying to get them the float to slide in. I couldn't make it happen tho.


Am I approaching it wrong? I start by putting the needle in and then try to slide the float down into the loop.

Use a tiny screw driver or a pick (scratch awl) to open the clip and angle the float tab at the clip-spread the clip as you angle it through---you can also interchange the clip.

 

[dannymax]

If the wires are one upright piece and one upside down L piece nip the upright piece off. Or if you're replacing stock needles move the stock wires over to the new needles.

Be cautious with the aftermarket float needle seats...I've mic'd dozens of them that were .002" - .003" undersize. Oem are recommended.

 

[Semi239]

nip the upright piece off

Yep thats exactly what I was able to do. seems to work well testing it on the bench.

Be cautious with the aftermarket float needle seats..

I ended up not replacing any of the seats, only the needles. How do you get the seats out anyway?

 

[Fire-medic]

Press 'em out with a C-clamp and a socket larger in dia than the seat is.

 

[JannPedersen]

Press 'em out with a C-clamp and a socket larger in dia than the seat is.

Fire-medic The press direction goes from the inside towards the outside of the carburetor, right? It seems like a brass plug is on the outside, will that just be pressed out as well? And, can it be reused?

 

[JannPedersen]

If the wires are one upright piece and one upside down L piece nip the upright piece off. Or if you're replacing stock needles move the stock wires over to the new needles.

Be cautious with the aftermarket float needle seats...I've mic'd dozens of them that were .002" - .003" undersize. Oem are recommended.

Dannymax: What does it mean, that you've "mic'd" them?

 

[Fire-medic]

Use of a micrometer to measure the not-under tension, freestanding gas needle valve.