Carb Set Up, Marks Exhaust @ Sea Level???

[SpecOps13]

KosRider: I know what you mean about getting all the crap from the stock system off. I've got it bagged and piled in the corner of the garage. I hope to weigh it all some day. :rofl_200:

Good that your stand cleared without mod...:biglaugh:

I made up special tools to get to the rear inner exhaust nuts. Duh, should have just changed the nuts.. Oh Well.:bang head:

You are So Gonna Have a Blast Riding Now. The sound is intimidating to other riders. If yours is like mine, It'll rev instantly when it's warmed up. That alone has a High Fear Factor. I felt a big increase in mid range acceleration with mine.

I shimmed the needles to 0.029 ( from there to 0.040 ), others have said will work. I have my Air / Fuel screws 3-1/2 turns out, others said 3-1/4 would work.

I'm still looking at the info that adamax gave me too.

 

[Redbone]

KosRider: I know what you mean about getting all the crap from the stock system off. I've got it bagged and piled in the corner of the garage. I hope to weigh it all some day. :rofl_200:

Good that your stand cleared without mod...:biglaugh:

I made up special tools to get to the rear inner exhaust nuts. Duh, should have just changed the nuts.. Oh Well.:bang head:

You are So Gonna Have a Blast Riding Now. The sound is intimidating to other riders. If yours is like mine, It'll rev instantly when it's warmed up. That alone has a High Fear Factor. I felt a big increase in mid range acceleration with mine.

I shimmed the needles to 0.029 ( from there to 0.040 ), others have said will work. I have my Air / Fuel screws 3-1/2 turns out, others said 3-1/4 would work.

I'm still looking at the info that adamax gave me too.

I cut a ~2" section off a 8mm(?)allen wrench and used a 3/8" stubby socket with a deep socket to tighten the two inside rear exhaust nuts.You could also use a gearwrench w/ a socket or leave the allen wrench longer (~3 1/2") and use the wrench right on the cut off allen wrench.

 

[dannymax]

I cut a ~2" section off a 8mm(?)allen wrench and used a 3/8" stubby socket with a deep socket to tighten the two inside rear exhaust nuts.You could also use a gearwrench w/ a socket or leave the allen wrench longer (~3 1/2") and use the wrench right on the cut off allen wrench.

Same here Brian. Seems odd to need a whole handfull of tools to tighten 4 lousy bolts but that's the way it is!

 

[SpecOps13]

Probably done with the installation by now but here's a picture of the tools I used to tighten the exhaust up...

 

[adamax]

SpecOps13, I was surprised that my max needed that rich setting ( and still wonder!! :hmmm: ).
Normal driving was okay at that time but my problem was when I was at full throttle at about 4000 rpm and above. Go one step at a time...

 

[SpecOps13]

Thanks adamax, good advice...

 

[SpecOps13]

Here's what my plugs are looking like after 74 miles of normal riding. I cut the throttle and coasted into the driveway at about 30 mph. Way fat on gas. And, right rear carb appears to be FUBAR..... 0.029 shimmed needles and 3-1/2 turns on the Air /Fuel Screws..

Thoughts???

 

[one2dmax]

Right rear may have a float issue. You can check the settings with the carbs on the bike.

 

[KJShover]

IMO, they look pretty good.
The right rear appears to be on the rich side. Ya might want to play a little with the a/f screws.

On my setup (morley's, stg 7 needles) I redone the a/f screws and they are all over the place, so to speak. One carb is now set at 3.25 another 3.5 and if I remember right the other two are somewhere in between. All my plugs now look the same and the bike runs great.

assuming everything else is in order, It takes a little time to fine tune a/f's but it's all good when you get there. The main thing is don't beat yourself up while getting there, its easy to get impatient. I made the adjustments about once a week until it was where I wanted it to be.

 

[SpecOps13]

See page 4 for additional info

 

[sdt354]

Just ordered my set tonight. Mark has them ready to ship. Getting on the mod monkey express.
Steve-o

 

[SpecOps13]

one2dmax: I just looked up the explanation of doing a wet level test on the floats while on the bike. I tried adjusting the Air Fuel Screw for the right rear carb and it has no effect. The others drop the Idle a small amount when turned all the way in. This right rear has no effect on the idle even turned all the way in and left.

KJShover: Thanx for the words of wisdom, I tend to drive myself nuts getting things done to a fine line tolerance. As I get older that tolerance is widening. I just don't have the energy to fight it as hard as I used to...

 

[gamorg02]

one2dmax: I just looked up the explanation of doing a wet level test on the floats while on the bike. I tried adjusting the Air Fuel Screw for the right rear carb and it has no effect. The others drop the Idle a small amount when turned all the way in. This right rear has no effect on the idle even turned all the way in and left.

KJShover: Thanx for the words of wisdom, I tend to drive myself nuts getting things done to a fine line tolerance. As I get older that tolerance is widening. I just don't have the energy to fight it as hard as I used to...

i would take some compressed air/cleaner and clean out where the screw goes in if its not making a difference!

same thing happened to me except it was wayyyyyyyyyy lean.

 

[SpecOps13]

I spent most of the day working with my Wife on her Tahoe. She has smaller hands and can get to things I can't. We got her fixed so I went on to look at the VMax.


I turned the Air / Fuel Screw in and out on the right rear to no avail. I got the crazy idea to use canned air through what I initially suspected to be a vent hose ( I must be really tired ) actually it's the drain hose. Drain being closed, it couldn't have done anything...:rofl_200: I backed the A/F screw out to a point 5 turns out and did the air into the hose thing. When I turned the screw back in, it turned in almost 3 turns farther than it had been before. It actually caused the engine to slow just like on the other carbs. :ummm::ummm::ummm: I've seen some magical, weird, off the wall fixes before but this takes the cake if that was the problem. There must have been some crap in the needle or some such thing and when I turned it out 5 turns, it went away??? Need time to get a ride in and see. My whole body is toast after crawling around under the Tahoe. So don't know when that ride will be.

 

[gamorg02]

mark? sean? thoughts?

 

[SpecOps13]

Last time I had the bike out the right rear plug was running richer than crap. I got it's Air / Fuel Screw to go all the way in as I mentioned above. I set them all back to 3-1/4 turns out instead of 3-1/2. I'm not sure it runs better with that setting.:ummm: I swapped the right front and rear plugs today too.

I took the bike out and ran it up and down the interstate for a while. Rode through traffic as consistantly as I could to get home. Then I hit the kill switch from about 30 and coasted into the driveway.

FM worked, the right rear plug looks much more like the others now.. I cut and pasted it's new picture above the one from last ride. BTW, running the dirty plug in the front cylinder cleaned it up too. Right, Wrong or indifferent, they all look very much alike now.:clapping: