Changed the clutch tonight....

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MBreinin

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So, my PCW clutch kit came in today and I changed the clutch. It was a pretty seemless operation with the only part really giving me a hard time was removing that last steel washer deal behind the BS half friction disc.

The clutch was SMOKED. I mean SMOKED. Every friction was worn smooth and all of the steels were well scortched. I wish I had bought a new set of steels or taken these to be beadblasted. In the end, I just re-used them. I may pull it apart again and get them done. I don't ride that much, so I am not that worried about it.

Also, I don't think this was the factory clutch. The discs were installed willy-nilly and were NOT lined up with the notches in alignment with the double dots.

Seeing the condition it was in, I am amazed it gripped at all.

I didn't get a chance to ride it, but I did check function and it seems fine with no binding. Lever action is not bad at all. I will take it out tomorrow and see how it holds.

Mike
 
You didn't happen to take any pictures as you went along ? Did you need reference to a manual ? Did the kit come with instructions ?
Can you say what the cost was to replace ? How long did it take you. Would it be hard to list everything as in an instruction thread for someone with moderate skills to do it themselves. I've never done one nor have I ever seen anybody rebuild one before. Good stuff, you saved yourself a few bucks I'm sure doing it yourself.
 
You didn't happen to take any pictures as you went along ? Did you need reference to a manual ? Did the kit come with instructions ?
Can you say what the cost was to replace ? How long did it take you. Would it be hard to list everything as in an instruction thread for someone with moderate skills to do it themselves. I've never done one nor have I ever seen anybody rebuild one before. Good stuff, you saved yourself a few bucks I'm sure doing it yourself.

Well, I used a combo of sources. This was one:

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

Also, I used a manual and the kit came with instructions. Cost me about $160 for all friction discs, the PCW spring and the gasket. I did not take pics, but it is actually very straightforward and if you follow the instructions, it can be done within a couple of hours the first time. The only setback I had was trying to get all of the Clutch Boss garbage out of the back. Some of those little plates and washers were hard to pull because they were stuck on with the oil tension.

Mike
 
Well, this clutch holds!! Wow, this is like a whole new bike now. Third gear is really special without any slippage.

I wish the clutch cover held as well as the clutch itself. I didn't use any RTV or Loctite and as a result I lost a housing bolt and had a nice oil bath.

I fixed that when I got home. :biglaugh:
 
I used my magnet on a stick to remove the steel spring washer. It worked like a charm. Beats trying to lift it with a pick, fighting the oil tension. Lock tite blue and aluminum are not really compatible. Proper torque should be all you need to keep the bolts in place. Ever notice how the factory doesn't use locktite? Over torquing is the most common cause of bolts loosening up. The threads get pulled a little in the case and then the trouble begins. An inch-pound torque wrench is a wise investment.
Just my two cents worth.
p.s. many, many years working on Harleys and used lots of locktite. ;)
 
Mike, a couple of quick questions if you don't mind...

I assume you have slippage before changing the clutch, but did you have the judder? What I am referring to is when the bike is just idling with the clutch out and it is making noise and vibrating?

How was your clutch basket?

I am just trying to figure out what to go with when I replace mine.
Thanks
 
Over torquing is the most common cause of bolts loosening up. The threads get pulled a little in the case and then the trouble begins. An inch-pound torque wrench is a wise investment.
Just my two cents worth.
p.s. many, many years working on Harleys and used lots of locktite. ;)

:hijacked::hijacked:
I'm not arguing here, but I've never heard the theory of making something too tight and it will end up getting loose. Could you explain? Also, never heard of loctite being an issue with aluminum. Does it cause corrosion or something? I normally put med. strength on all just about all the motor bolts to prevent them from getting loose. Maybe a bad idea? Any other comments?
 
:hijacked::hijacked:
I'm not arguing here, but I've never heard the theory of making something too tight and it will end up getting loose. Could you explain? ?

Threads get stretched and bolts end up loosening. Take a look at an overtorqued bolt someday...it's not pretty.
"Skiddy"
 
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