Charging Troubleshooting

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godsend1

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I'm using the troubleshooting chart, in part D where you test the stator, it says to disconnect the stator from the RR to test the voltage and the resistance of the stator, I have soldered my leads between the stator RR.

Do I need to disconnect those wires to get accurate resistance/voltage readings?
 
Ok, with the wires disconnected I get 0.0 ohms between the 3 white wires coming from the stator, all 3 measure the same, this is with the engine hot, at 5k rpm I get 70-80-80 volts.

I think this indicates the RR has gone bad again.
 
If you have 0 ohms(was your multitester on the LOWEST ohm setting? Like 1, 10, or at most 100?...on a higher setting it might have just been rounding down) on each leg of the stator, that lends itself to indicating the stator windings have shorted out. Spec is between about .4 and .9 ohms, though a stator can be somewhat outside of those and still function fine.

Another test is to set the tester on ohms, put one lead on ground, and test the three pins. All should have infinite ohms (no continuity). If there's any continuity, the stator is shorted and needs to be replaced.

70-80-80 volts is also a bit strange. Ideally all three legs will be the same or extremely close, though the 70-80 VAC range sounds about right.

Why do you think the r/r is bad? Since you said "again", I assume it's died before. Motors that "eat" r/r's do so for a reason. A poor ground is a common reason, as are skimpy wiring and harness connectors that aren't up to snuff for the current load. And old shunt style r/r's generate heat which eventually kills all of them...it's just accelerated here from additional load due to high resistance in the circuit) When you replace it again, eliminate as many connections as possible, and consider replacing it with a newer style MOSFET r/r.
 
The lowest ohm setting is 200, so ...

I tested continuity to ground through each of the legs, all good, no continuity.

My stock RR died a couple of months ago, I replaced it with a new non oem model from Sean, the first one he sent me ran at about 18-19 volts at 5k rpm, the second one ran fine. This was bout 2 months/750 miles ago.

When I replaced the RR I soldered all 3 leads to the stator, as well as soldering the positive lead from the RR to the battery, and I ran a direct wire from the RR to ground. All leads from the RR are soldered now, no connectors.
 
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