Clutch Adjustment

[Ost85vmax]

Is there any way to adjust the clutch lever? Mine seems to engage immediately as i pull it in. Maybe a 1/4" and it seems to engage. It almost has me wondering if it is totally releasing since there is really no play at all letting it out. I wish the was an inch or so before it would engage so I would know that I am letting the clutch out totally. I have not had any slippage that I know of but the other day the motor reved up on me, this was the first time and last so far. Atthe time I thought the worst but I could have just had my hand resting on the clutch lever or I supposed possibly putting some pressure on it, but thats how close it is and I would like to get it into the middle of the pull if thats even possible.

Thanks!

 

[ninjaneer]

off hand I can only think of investing in an adjustable lever. Its a hydraulic clutch, so ....

Do you have stock clutch plates? As opposed to a DD, PCW, or Barnett setup?

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android

 

[Ost85vmax]

Running the DD mod. I didnt really think there was an adjustment, but on this forum you never know what people gave come up with.

 

[Redbone]

Check this out...pulled from a web search...

It sounds like the clutch to me. A slipping clutch gets noticeable in the high gears first.

Do this:

Put bike in 5th gear ,rev it up to 3500-4000 rpm's then dump the clutch. If it slips, clutch is bad. If it stalls, clutch is okay.

I believe it would be best to have the front wheel up against a wall or other type of immovable object.

 

[davesax36]

Could old oil simulate a slipping clutch? Or could driveline drag (license plate stuck up under fender rubbing numbers off, don't ask) make it slip. I haven't done my pcw mod, but if I can correct slipping (in all gears with >.125 throttle) with an oil change, I'll wait to do all my work when the motor is out.

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[KJShover]

oil that uses friction modifiers can make your clutch behave as if it's slipping.

Higher performance engine oils such as API SJ thru SM will contain some level of friction modifier. While the friction modifier improves fuel economy, it is not compatible with wet clutches used on motorcycles. The friction modifier causes the wet clutch to slip. This is especially true if the motorcycle manufacturer recommends using only engine oils carrying API SF or SG Service Categories.
API recommends following the Original Equipment Manufacturer's (OEMs) oil recommendations. Typically an API SJ through SM engine oil would include some friction modifier. Only if the OEM indicates that higher performance engine oils such as API SJ, API SL and API SM it is possible to use these engine oils in these motorcycles.

Regards,
Dennis L. Bachelder
American Petroleum Institute
1220 L Street NW
Washington DC 20005 USA

 

[davesax36]

I'm pretty sure that's not the problem, but I'll change it anyway before I go and start taking off parts. I also read a thread on advrider that was talking about lowering the level in the master to relieve pressure buildup from a wearing but not totally worn out clutch. Super short disengagement distance seems to be a symptom that's cured by proper level of fluid in the clutch master.

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[jfeagins]

I'm pretty sure that's not the problem, but I'll change it anyway before I go and start taking off parts. I also read a thread on advrider that was talking about lowering the level in the master to relieve pressure buildup from a wearing but not totally worn out clutch. Super short disengagement distance seems to be a symptom that's cured by proper level of fluid in the clutch master. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Ummm....NO.

 

[davesax36]

Ok, so they are wrong and an over-filled master cylinder does not have any effect on lever travel, engagement point, or any of that?

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[KJShover]

Ok, so they are wrong and an over-filled master cylinder does not have any effect on lever travel, engagement point, or any of that?

Just like having no fluid in the reservoir, being too full won't allow any fluid travel, you will get virtually no action on the clutch. As the clutch disks wear out, they get thinner, this forces the pressure plate spring and push rod a little further out, pushing a little more fluid back up into the master cyl. Being that the clutch plates are thinner, it will barely change the angle of the dangle for pressure release that effects the engagement point of the clutch lever, I'm thinking about 9 out of 10 people wont even notice this.
What I've seen on other maxes and hydraulic clutched bikes, all it took was a "top off" of a quart or so of oil with friction modifiers to exaggerate issues with an older clutch. A complete oil change cured all with the exception of a couple of the bikes. They really did need a new clutch.

 

[mproy]

Exactly the same thing happen to me, change the oil and it work good after, mechanic said that a little dirt in oil could be the cause.

 

[jfeagins]

Changing engine oil may well have an affect on clutch plate operation, but will not affect clutch lever travel. Overfilling a reservoir would most likely cause a mess around the cover gasket before causing any other ill affects. I believe the seep hole in the cover would allow you to discover an overfill situation fairly quickly. (OEM reservoirs) I've topped off a little too high on my annual spring fluid changeout a couple times over the years, and ended up with seepage and a mess to show for it. NEVER any lever travel problems from it.

 

[davesax36]

Changed my oil. Took the bike out last night. Came back to see the oil super dirty already. I guess this probably came from mixing the oil from that left side under the middle gear cover. How am I supposed to get at that 14mm bolt to drain from that side? It sits right over the pipes...

Took it out tonight, too, didn't change again (yet). Highway speed, whack the throttle wide open and I get a little surge, then a slip. The more I played with it, the worse it got. Not terrible like the first time, when I had to limp home 25 miles with the thing barely hanging on at 55 mph, but enough to send me directly home to look at it. Of course the oil still looks kinda dirty. I guess maybe my clutch is going. I'm pretty sure the PO was fairly abusive to this poor beast. This must be just one more step in the process of me nursing it back to health.

 

[jfeagins]

Sean will have all the pressure plates, clutch plates and the clutch cover gasket you need to refresh that clutch. [email protected]

 

[DMAN999]

Here's a good VMax Clutch Guide (It also Includes info on doing the DD Mod):
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

 

[davesax36]

Yeah, I have a pcw kit already. I'm just trying to figure out how to get the oil from the middle gear chamber without dumping it all over the pipes.

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[Ost85vmax]

If your referring to oil draining out when you go change the clutch then all will be good. Put the bike on the side stand and you shouldn't loose much at all. Maybe on ounce or so. Throw anything over the pipes to protect them if there cool. Even better in my case my driveway is sloped so I get even more angle to keep the oil in the bike when accessing the clutch. Otherwise you could get the tires up on a piece of plywood or something to tilt her even more. Pull the cover, put you pcw kit in, new gasket, put the cover on and never have to worry about loosing or adding oil.

 

[davesax36]

I get the install process. I want to get ALL of the oil out before I put the
new stuff in.
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[DMAN999]

I get the install process.
I want to get ALL of the oil out before I put the new stuff in.

I wouldn't worry about it.
The Owners Manual and the Service Manual both say to use the Drain Bolt on the Bottom of the Oil Pan to Drain the Oil when doing an Oil Change.
They Don't say Anything about the Middle Gear Case.

 

[davesax36]

Cool. I'll just keep changing it until it looks clean and not try any WOT fun for a few weeks.

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