Clutch bled

[josephjhaney]

Problem solved! At least for now, hopefully I get some time out of it before I see the issue again, I have the slave cyl seal replacement kit, but want to ride her a little before I tackle that job.

 

[alorio1]

The caliper rebuild kid does not come with the square o-ring rebuild kit, did you check to see if the clutch slave has the square O-ring in the box?

 

[josephjhaney]

The caliper rebuild kid does not come with the square o-ring rebuild kit, did you check to see if the clutch slave has the square O-ring in the box?

I did not.... I had thought the rebuild kit would include all the stuff I needed.... I won't be doing it right away so if I need extra stuff I can order. What it came with was a spring, two large round seals, a small seal, and what looks like a cap for a bleed port.

 

[josephjhaney]

The only place I see a sqare shaped seal is in the master on the handle, and it appears, visually at least, to be fine.

 

[alorio1]

Maybe some one else will chime in that has ordered the same rebuild kit and actually rebuilt their slave cylinder and found that it does have all the seals needed. I think I would have ordered the whole assy since it's such a PITA to change. If you do rebuild it and reuse the old seal , you may still have leakage. Then you will probably have to buy a new gasket and the whole assy to fix the problem...total loss about 26 bucks and your labor.

 

[Fire-medic]

Joe's right on this one I am afraid. Just buy the ass'y. & switch it out. Keep the defective one as a back-up if you need something from it. I stopped re-building clutch, brake and slave cylinders, it's just not worth-it as-long as NOS pieces are avail.

 

[josephjhaney]

So I can look at the prices, can you perhaps post a link to what I would want to purchase? I'm pretty ok getting the whole assembly if it's going to be an easier and better swap in and out. Now, I should point out, after bleeding, it's working with zero issues, and the bike has a little over 2,180 miles on it, so I doubt there is anything wrong but the deteriorated rubber in the slave cyl. (I found an 85 with 1950 miles on it, rode it the 220 home, and this was the issue that popped up). Everything else seems freaking awsome.

Joe

 

[jedi-]

I don't recall square shaped anything for the slave cylinder ( other than its dust cover). Sure you're not confusing the master cylinder?

Provided the bore is ok in the slave cylinder then the kit should work just fine.

The workshop manual might suggest removing the stator cover but it isn't necessary .
The cap screws need to be nice and clean and use either a long allen key or an allen socket on a ratchet drive and make sure they are good quality as the screws are tight . Round them off and you'll be really sad.

 

[alorio1]

Google 1FK-16381-11-00 and you can choose your part supplier. I'm sure Sean Morley will have one and he is a vendor and a supporter of this site. You can email him here; [email protected]

 

[alorio1]

While you have the slave off, it would be a good Idea to replace the clutch push rod seal and use black RTV sealant to the back of the seal also. That seal seems to fit loosely and needs a sealant on it.

Oil Seal

93109-08061-00. I pressed mine in with my thumb. If the reservoir fluid level is not dropping, you could me mistaking oil for brake fluid