clutch master or slave?

[02GF74]

... but first hello and hi to all. I stopped posting for a number of reasons, mainly as I wanted to reduce the amount of time I spent online.

I had this issue last year where after my bike standing for a while (6 months) the clutch lever has no resistance. I got around it last year by bleeding the clutch, which fixed it, but I noticed that if I pulled the clutch lever quickly then released it, there would be air in the bleed hose on the next pull. I don't see any fluid on or below the bike so I am hoping it is not the slave.

My next step is to replace the internals of the clutch master as
1. I think the problem is there
and
2. it is easier to do than the slave..... unless someone comes along and says "yeah, I had the same symptoms and it is definitely the slave"

 

[CaptainKyle]

... but first hello and hi to all. I stopped posting for a number of reasons, mainly as I wanted to reduce the amount of time I spent online.

I had this issue last year where after my bike standing for a while (6 months) the clutch lever has no resistance. I got around it last year by bleeding the clutch, which fixed it, but I noticed that if I pulled the clutch lever quickly then released it, there would be air in the bleed hose on the next pull. I don't see any fluid on or below the bike so I am hoping it is not the slave.

My next step is to replace the internals of the clutch master as
1. I think the problem is there
and
2. it is easier to do than the slave..... unless someone comes along and says "yeah, I had the same symptoms and it is definitely the slave"

About 90% of the time it is the slave cylinder they are not that hard to do. I have had good luck using the K&l kits to rebuild them just make sure you get the bore nice and clean

 

[Fire-medic]

I agree with CaptainKyle.

Here's an exactrep kit since you're in the UK.

http://www.exactrep.com/acatalog/Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Repair-Kit-172CS.html
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/need-help-rebuilding-my-clutch-master-cylinder.49868/#post-499675
Read the repair thread. I recommend the 'reverse-bleed,' pushing brake fluid from the opened slave cyl bleeder valve upwards into the empty handlebar clutch master cylinder.

Be sure to use a tight-fitting allen key to remove the 2 machine screws holding the slave cyl to the left engine case.


You probably will need gasket (2nd pic) part # 19 as #14 needs to be removed to access the slave cyl.

 

[02GF74]

I will work on it over the weekend but if air was getting in when releasing the clutch lever, if it was entering at the master, it would take a few pulls on the lever for the air to work its way down the hose hence it's got to be entering at the slave. I've ordered the slave seal kit so need to read up on have how to remove the slave.....

.... and apart from clutch slave internals, are these 2 gaskets the only other parts that need replacing? (not looking forward to this .... )

 

[Incider]

I will work on it over the weekend but if air was getting in when releasing the clutch lever, if it was entering at the master, it would take a few pulls on the lever for the air to work its way down the hose hence it's got to be entering at the slave. I've ordered the slave seal kit so need to read up on have how to remove the slave.....

.... and apart from clutch slave internals, are these 2 gaskets the only other parts that need replacing? (not looking forward to this .... )

View attachment 89464

Only need the smaller gasket. It's not a bad job to do. You'll need a decent Allen bit on a socket drive or possibly an impact driver. I managed mine in a couple of hours with a sidecar in the way

 

[Dave.n.Shirley]

I did mine just two days ago and it takes a bit longer than it really should . You only need the lower gasket as Incider says. You can get that gasket on the 'bay for c£6. The nuisance for me was that I didn't have an air source to pop the piston out. So once I removed the slave, I had to re-connect it and bleed it to pop out the piston. Order a few copper washers while you're at it. There's no need to remove the long spacer which the hose banjo bolt mounts to and which in turn connects to the slave. It's a bit fiddly getting the slave in and out of position, but not as bad as some folk make out. I cleaned up the bore using a little wire wool and autosol (I then further cleaned the bore out with clutch fluid on a rag) . It also takes a bit of persuasion to lift the new seal over the piston, but be confident , wet it with clutch fluid, and it slips over. The bleeding part is the time consuming part, and once in position , there isn't a lot of room to twist the spanner 'on / off' on the bleed nipple. Also, put a small pan under the casing before you remove it as you'll have some oil spill out when it pulls off.

 

[MaxMidnight]

I always reverse bleed the clutch.

 

[Fire-medic]

"My clutch doesn't work!"



But after disassembly, it was free of pitting upon the bore or the piston, so suitable for a rebuild. As these have hit about $150 for a complete new assembly, a rebuild is worth it if you're short on the gelt and the components lend themselves to a rebuild.

Like Mr. MM, I also am a fan of the reverse-flush to quickly restore a firm lever at the clutch. Remember, 'bubbles rise.'

 

[Incider]

"My clutch doesn't work!"

View attachment 89636

Looks fine to me

 

[MaxMidnight]

Like Mr. MM, I also am a fan of the reverse-flush to quickly restore a firm lever at the clutch. Remember, 'bubbles rise.'

And also tie the lever back overnight which also helps to purge any remaining air.