Clutch never fully disengages

[[email protected]]

Correct. Do not squeeze the clutch lever if the pressure plate is removed. If so, you need to bleed the system

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[MrPresident]

Ok, so i had the plates off to check them, all good. one of each plate (one half friction one clutch) behind the spring clip then 6 clutch and 7 friction in front.

pulled the pushrod (#17) out to check. Put it back in and reached up and pulled the clutch lever to check the action. The push rod pushed out (hooray) and so i pushed it back in and noticed that the next time i pulled the clutch lever I actually got full range of motion all the way to the handlebar!

but each time i did not push the pushrod all the way back in the lever would get one good full pull then each one after that would stop the lever farther and farther away from the handlebar.

Put everything back on except the clutch cover to test, and same result. if i push the pressure plate back in myself the next pull of the clutch lever will be full and smooth. but just letting the clutch spring push everything back together wasnt ennough to return all the clutch fluid and the lever would stop an inch away from the handlebar again.

Isnt the clutch fluid system closed somewhere before that giant bold holding in the clutch boss like back by the large pushrod (#22)? I was planning on flushing the system again for good luck, but i didnt realize you could introduce air into the lines from the clutch side of things.

Either way, the whole business with being able to shove the pushrod back in for a full reset and good action seems odd.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1996/V-MAX 1200 - VMX12H/CLUTCH/parts.html

 

[jfeagins]

I don't think you are introducing air into the clutch lines by activating your lever whilst the clutch is apart. You are introducing too much fluid between the handlebar master & slave cylinder, not allowing the slave to back off the way it should....of course, if you sit there pumping the lever enough times, the handlebar master could bleed itself low enough to introduce air up above....

 

[MrPresident]

But with the clutch spring on, and I even went so far as to install the double D mod and put both springs on they dont exert enough pressure to get the same full return of clutch fluid i was able to get by pushing on it myself.

 

[jfeagins]

Did the previous owner have the clutch basket completely out? It sounds as if you don't have all the pieces/parts in place.

 

[MrPresident]

Wait a minute, the pushrod (#20) had an o ring on it. In the diagram it makes it look like that o ring is between the pushrod and the ball. Did that little guy work his way onto my pushrod and is causing the clutch to stick?!


http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1996/V-MAX 1200 - VMX12H/CLUTCH/parts.html

obviously im just grasping at straws now. but that would be a really easy fix

Edit: And yeah, i had to pull the clutch basket because one of the six bolt mounts snapped off

 

[blaxmax]

Isn't that o-ring on the # 20 push rod end?

 

[MrPresident]

like 3/4 of the way down it.

 

[blaxmax]

5th photo----this should help.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10938

 

[MrPresident]

Ok yeah the o ring is in the right spot good call with the photo ive been googling images for the last 10 minutes looking for it.

Would the clutch even work at all without that ball? that was the only thing i didnt check last night

 

[blaxmax]

ok yeah the o ring is in the right spot good call with the photo ive been googling images for the last 10 minutes looking for it.

Would the clutch even work at all without that ball? That was the only thing i didnt check last night

no

 

[MrPresident]

the mystery continues

damn

 

[MrPresident]

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10938

this thread says the OUTERMOST friction plate is unique and must be put back in place. So the plate right before the pressure plate is different too? How so, is it thinner? Because I didnt notice any that were different except the little half one behind the spring clip.

Could that have done it?

 

[blaxmax]

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10938

this thread says the OUTERMOST friction plate is unique and must be put back in place. So the plate right before the pressure plate is different too? How so, is it thinner? Because I didnt notice any that were different except the little half one behind the spring clip.

Could that have done it?

If you look at #9 the part number is different from the 6 #10's as is #8.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1994/V-MAX 1200 - VMX12F/CLUTCH/parts.html

 

[[email protected]]

I am only aware of 1 difference. See the tabs on the friction plates at 12:00? The outer plate has one large notch while the others have 2 small notches.
I'm really not sure why its like that or what other differences there may be.

 

[DMAN999]

The outside 7 OEM friction plates are all the same (#9 - 26H-16307-01-00 )
and the one farthest in is the 1/2 friction plate (#7 - 26H-16321-01-00 ).
I'd guess his was different in that guide because it was from a 1985 Vmax before they discontinued the old part numbers and started using the same part numbers as our newer Gen1's use.
A lot of guys remove the 1/2 plate and it's associated parts (#4, #5 and #6) and replace those with a full size friction plate for more grab.
All 7 of the Steel Plates are the same (26H-16324-00-00).
http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500442faf8700209bc78ee34/clutch

This should help you identify those parts too:
LvlHead's Into The Clutch Guide
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

Here is what mine looked like when I first removed the pressure plate, the outer friction plate is the same as all the rest (except of course the 1/2 friction at the back of the clutch basket.

 

[MrPresident]

Well shoot if theyre all the same except that half friction at the very back im out of ideas as to why i cant get my clutch to fully disengage or why the clutch lever stops an inch short.

I have all new Caltric friction plates in there, should I switch back to all old plates and see if that clears it up?

 

[DMAN999]

Are you 100% sure the pressure plate was put back on correctly.
If it doesn't go on tight to the outside friction plate that will cause issues too.
I had that happen when I switched to a Barnett 6 spring friction plate.
I pulled it off and rotated it until it was tight to the first friction pate and that fixed it.

 

[MrPresident]

As in the 6 bolts werent tight enough when you put the pressure plate back on? I went until the bolts stopped into their clutch basket arms but didnt actually crank on em. Figured the stock torque spec was basically wrist tight

Also what was the issue like when it happened for you?

 

[DMAN999]

No I mean with No bolts in it did it make contact with the first friction plate like in my picture above ?
Mine was about 1/16" away from the first friction plate so I had to rotate the pressure plate until it was touching the first friction plate.
Then I installed the bolts and yes the bolts only need to be tightened hand tight.

And it was 4 years or so ago so I don't remember if it wouldn't engage or dis-engage.