ColtMax's 1997 restoration thread

[ColtMax]

My Vmax has 144 000 km and still runs great, I would like to make sure that it runs this way for many more KMs as I share a particular story with this Vmax.
This thread will cover my journey through the overhaul process of this bike. I am not a professional mechanic but I do have good experience with fixing motorcycles and cars.

The plan for 2025 winter consists of the followings:
1 - overhaul of the front fork with Progressive Suspension springs
2 - steering bearings
3 - wheel bearings and seals
4 - brake discs and pads
5 - brake calipers overhaul
6 - brake and clutch master cylinders
7 - clutch friction discs and metal discs
8 - clutch double D mod - I have bought the extra spring, but not sure if I will go through with this.
9 - clutch slave cylinder overhaul
10 - carburetors overhaul
11 - intake and v-boost boots
12 - fuel filter
13 - thermostat replacement
14 - drive shaft seals and re-shimming
15 - engine valves adjustments and valve cover gaskets
16 - Progressive suspension rear shocks (444-4020B) intended for Harley's, but very similar specs to the discontinued VMax 444s.
17 - cleaning, polishing, brushing and clear coating some aluminum components such as the scoops and side covers.

I welcome all suggestions such as "while you are at it" or "you should do it this way".
Hope this can be useful to others too.

So, let's get started!

 

[ColtMax]

1- Overhaul of the front fork with Progressive Suspension springs

The first section of the bike I'll be tackling is the front suspension.
First step is to disassemble the front forks and these videos from @one2dmax (Sean Morley) are amazing!
Here is the how to disassemble the front fork video from Sean:

PARTS:
I have ordered the following OEM parts to perform this task:

Item	PN	Description	Qty
15	4V4-23188-L0-00	O-RING	2​
19	3LR-23149-00-00	WASHER, SPRING UPPER	2​
9	3GM-23173-00-00	SPINDLE, TAPER	2​
6	4PU-23144-00-00	SEAL, DUST	2​
4	4PU-23145-01-00	OIL SEAL	2​
7	4V4-23146-L0-00	WASHER, OIL SEAL	2​
5	5EB-23125-00-00	METAL, SLIDE 1	2​
12	4V4-23158-L0-00	GASKET	2​

UPGRADE
As an upgrade, I am installing the Progressive Suspension spring 11-1144



DISASSEMBLY
The disassembly process was pretty straight forward, thanks to Seans's video.
Here is how my bike sits now:

 

[Traumahawk]

Since your going this far on the forks, I would suggest setting the sag as well. It's easy to do with either cutting off, or a longer piece of pvc piping.

 

[ColtMax]

Since your going this far on the forks, I would suggest setting the sag as well. It's easy to do with either cutting off, or a longer piece of pvc piping.

I guess this is achieved by cutting the white tubes supplied in the Progressive kit? I'll do some reading on that. Thanks for mentioning it

 

[Fire-medic]

Depending upon on how hard/enthusiastically you use your bike, Race-Tech offers specific resistance springs based upon your weight ready-to-ride, and how you ride. Something to consider, instead of a one-size fits-all Progressive Suspension pair of springs. I have both, and I prefer the Race-Tech, you may be perfectly content with the P.S.

One thing you didn't mention about the front suspension, is adding cartridge emulators, another Race-Tech item. They change the traditional oil-based damper rods' function to like wave washer stacks, using coil springs which are adjustable, and if you take the time to set them up properly. your front-end handling improves greatly. RICOR is another company which has a similar product. YSS used to offer one as well, but I haven't seen that for awhile.

An example: https://www.partsgiant.com/p348768-race-tech-fork-springs?f=116151&r=vt-25

https://www.partsgiant.com/p350481-race-tech-gold-valve-cartridge-fork-emulator?r=vt-25

Do you have The Hulk grip strength? The 'double disc' diaphragm spring modification is great if you're going to abuse the clutch at the dragstrip, but if you're in an urban 'stop & go' traffic environment, I suspect you will soon grow tired of the excess effort it requires. PCW in upstate NY offered a heavy-duty single diaphragm spring, not sure if they're still around. I got one from them and also added another friction disc, while removing the innermost pieces in the clutch pack, like the narrow 'steelie' and the wire spring to make room for the additional friction disc. Sean Morley may have the replacement heavy-duty diaphragm spring as well.

About the clutch and front brake (and the clutch slave cylinder and the rear disc brake master cyl.), I can understand wanting to overhaul them based upon your mileage attained. They're simple to work upon, and a rebuild kit from OEM or a quality aftermarket supplier like All-Balls is easy to install. I think I'd be inclined to use what you have until they start to not work. What that period of use is, you just need to 'wait & see.' They're both (clutch & front brake master cylinders) 5/8" if you want to replace them with something fancy/aftermarket.

I didn't see mention of brake/clutch hoses, and those are items which should be replaced, if you're on the OEM hoses. Stainless steel braided lines are popular, and they expand under load less-than OEM rubber does. You may already have replaced the hoses, I don't know. I am a fan of the 'reverse-bleed' for non-ABS brakes and the clutch (especially) as it does the job quickly and efficiently. If you aren't familiar with that, use the search function: reverse-bleed and my screen name.

You're sure to get lots of suggestions, and I bet many members will see your posts and follow your examples of work being accomplished. We all like the write-ups, and pictures, lots of pictures. Have at-it.