coolant leak

[Diablotin]

Ok I'm having that coolant leak for a while now but it's really getting worst.
After searching in the forum I saw some buddies who got the same issue.
Just to be sure, do I need all the parts described by mark here ?

Thanks

 

[Travolous]

I just posted about this same thing yesterday in the Motor section. You need the thermostat O rings. There are also part numbers listed in my thread. Around $8 worth of parts.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=20543

 

[dannymax]

Guys, I would recommend bringing up a parts fiche and getting every o-ring associated with the system, from the drain cock assembly back to the water pump elbow....in fact, as long as the fluid is drained, why not pull the water pump and rebuild that too. There's some good threads in this forum explaining the whole procedure.

Nothing irritates me more than to look at an o-ring or seal and figure it's good only to have the damn thing **** the bed a month later!

 

[88vmx12]

Guys, I would recommend bringing up a parts fiche and getting every o-ring associated with the system, from the drain cock assembly back to the water pump elbow....in fact, as long as the fluid is drained, why not pull the water pump and rebuild that too. There's some good threads in this forum explaining the whole procedure.

Nothing irritates me more than to look at an o-ring or seal and figure it's good only to have the damn thing **** the bed a month later!

+1...... get it all don't half ass it! Otherwise you would be pissed when you are back in there doing the same damn thing on the O-ring next to the last one :bang head:. Plus paying for more coolant that you might of lost and the down time you had. Spend the extra few bucks and do it all at the same time unk:
G

 

[Thevmaxrider]

Guys, I would recommend bringing up a parts fiche and getting every o-ring associated with the system, from the drain cock assembly back to the water pump elbow....in fact, as long as the fluid is drained, why not pull the water pump and rebuild that too. There's some good threads in this forum explaining the whole procedure.

Nothing irritates me more than to look at an o-ring or seal and figure it's good only to have the damn thing **** the bed a month later!

+2!!! I am going to be doing this same stuff shortly to Toxic. I even went so far as to purchase an entire drain cock assembly because mine is in rough shape. Nothing worse than a rough drain cock you know!:rofl_200::rofl_200:

 

[88vmx12]

Nothing worse than a rough ..... cock you know!:rofl_200::rofl_200:

sorry had to modify your quote.... But DAMN Jim you are funny! :rofl_200::rofl_200:

G

 

[Travolous]

I understand the logic behind replacing everything, but it's not like it's time consuming work . Replacing the O rings in that elbow can't take very much time at all. Drain the coolant into a brand new uncontaminated container (for reusing purposes), remove the clamp to the hose connected to the elbow, remove the two? bolts holding on the elbow. Replace O-ring, put back together. Unless I am missing something, we're looking at 30minutes of total work?

 

[one2dmax]

It's hard to tell from your pics but you may also have a cracked top cap. Leaks aren't common from this assembly and there isn't much reason to replace what isn't broken. BUT, if it's in rough shape then you can consider replacing it (or just the new rings as was noted).

Sean

 

[satariel666]

It's hard to tell from your pics but you may also have a cracked top cap. Leaks aren't common from this assembly and there isn't much reason to replace what isn't broken. BUT, if it's in rough shape then you can consider replacing it (or just the new rings as was noted).

Sean

Theres an oring under that cap which I was replacing few times.
Cheap quick fix!

 

[dmax1]

I would look at the hose it looks pretty bloated and old. Could be seeping from the hose and running down around the housing. A new hose and clamp might fix your problem. :confused2:

 

[Diablotin]

I just posted about this same thing yesterday in the Motor section. You need the thermostat O rings. There are also part numbers listed in my thread. Around $8 worth of parts.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=20543

Exactly buddy, One of the 2 thread I did read about the issue yesterday
Although on mine I didn't see any crack yet. I'll pull it out soon and figure it out.

 

[Diablotin]

I think changes the hoses and all the o-ring won't be a bad idea, although I need to see what I can find locally asap. After my last 4h ride I lost about a liter of coolant.
I looks like it's happening only when stopping the bike, so I guess I should keep riding it :rofl_200:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

That water neck is a pain in the dick to remove, you will need some ratchet driver style allens and a swivel, If I remember correctly I had to remove the exhaust pipe to pull it out of there completely....I could be wrong and it was something else I was working on at the time..

That hose does look very bloated and spongy....

If the water neck is cracked it's about $70 bucks from the stealer..

Mine was leaking at the neck and all it was was just the o-rings, but I did what others have suggested and replaced all the rubber gaskets, or-rings, and the thermostat as well...I hate doing stuff twice..And the parts are cheap....

Personally I wouldn't touch the water pump unless it's giving you problems. Never really seen one go bad, but I know they do from the posts on here...I'll probably rebuld mine too when I put my new engine together..since it's already off the bike..

 

[namyzzo]

Ok I'm having that coolant leak for a while now but it's really getting worst.
After searching in the forum I saw some buddies who got the same issue.
Just to be sure, do I need all the parts described by mark here ?

Thanks

I'm finally close to firing up my 86 rebuild.. I too have the leak at the same spot. I started with a new o-ring.. I removed the assembly and noticed piting inside where the o-ring seats. I used wetsand paper and attempted to remove most of it. Cleaned the top surface that the housing sits on with a file. I tested the new fit by plugging the holes and blowing in it - and it seemed to hold..Re-assembled on bike..Now it leaks alot slower..LOL ... If you press on the housing to oneside - it will stop leaking... The plastic housing is weird - why does it only contact the bolting surface - and yet have a gap inbetween them when installed...

I powdercoated the metal housing - and made sure no powder got in there..

The piting just looks like old "corrosion" pitting..
..Also - it appears the cover seats on the thermo seal. My new one has a notch in the rubber to clear the weep hole in the thermo.. I had a old one from a donor bike and it did not have the cut-out section.. - wonder if that is squeezing past the housing????


( I have the Kerker Header - so maybe stock pipes would require different removal steps = but I just loosend/removed all the hoses down there, 2 bolts from housing to block, removed metal feed pipe from housing and was then able to weasel the elbow/housing/thermo cover assembly out the front between the front header pipes...fyi )


guess ill order housing,cover,o-ring,seal..etc..

 

[Diablotin]

I had to remove the front header before accessing it. Not easy to access the thermostat. Finally i replaced that o-ring and no issue anymore.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2