Cost to benefit...

[Traumahawk]

Well thanks for the clear up...Sounds like i need to read up a bit more....lol

 

[sdt354]

Does that $1400 buy, in your opinion, a noticeable difference in performance and handling over say the 500 it would take to install a race tech shocks and emulator?

I can't say because I've never ridden a vmax with USD forks. I spent $500 on front suspention, including the wide Wheel I put i n front,which itself lower my front a lot.There was a deal for free Progressive springs when I bought my 440 rear shocks. I skipped emulators, but I trust my Vmax Brothers here that have them to say they're worth it. Their a good concept when you look at what they do.
I think I'd want radials,shocks,and brakes before a USD fork. The USD looks bad ass though. The tree price kills you. COO HAD TREES FOR $350, But thats, had. I saw a set of R1 forks local, with the calipers for $175. For sale by a Vmax rider I know. If anyone is interested, I'd be glad to check them out for ya. Last I herd they were on CL.
Steve-o

 

[sdt354]

I have progressive springs lowered 1inch internally. I noticed a nice difference from stock. But if you don't have radial tires yet put your money towards that first. That is by far the best mod for handling you can do for your bike. It's not the cheapest but there are a few options. I bought a set of carrezzera rims from Sean and I absolutely love them. They are so light and are easy on the eye as well. I believe he only has a few sets left and when they get sold you will not be able to get a new set anymore. He had the manufacturer make him 50 sets about 2 years ago and when they are gone there gone. They are anodized a color of your choice or if your pockets are deep you can get them chromed as well.
Good luck with what ever you decide.

Marks bike handels incredible now. We switch bikes sometimes, and it;s a great way to compare your stuff . Carro's weren't in my budget. I;m happy with the wheels I have,Kosman bolt togethers . Sean did me right on the front wheel. And Charles-Antwerp, helped me out when I bought the rear Kosman. I wish I'd gone to a 130/70 in front instead of the 120-Next year.

 

[CaptainKyle]

It doesn't cost $500 for Race-Tech springs and emulators. More like $200-$250 or so unless they have gone up considerably since I bought them. I have both on my current Max and had Progressive springs on my previous Max. Just be sure you get the correct springs for your weight/riding style. I got the 1.0 springs which are too HD for my weight. I should have got the .95 or .90 springs. Prefer the Race-Tech setup but the Progressive springs can be had for around $100. I have an 18" Kosman rear wheel and stock front wheel which is the least expensive way to go radials. If I had the money I would get a set of the Carr's from Sean but just can't do that in my current financial situation.

Every other solution cost more so it is up to you on how much you want to spend.

I figured he was talking 500 for emulators springs & shocks which is a little short probably closer to 600 or a bit more for both & that is if you know how to install the emulators & springs your self. If not you can add a couple hundred on top of that.

 

[one2dmax]

I wonder if this is radial vs bias automotive or even if this is correct to apply to all tire construction. The "feel" is damn sure the opposite of the claims.

 

[Decter]

Looks aside, is there a dramatic difference in performance between Kosman wheel widening and after market radial rims like what Sean offers?

 

[DMAN999]

I wonder if this is radial vs bias automotive or even if this is correct to apply to all tire construction. The "feel" is damn sure the opposite of the claims.

It's seems it's the same for Motorcycle and Car tires.
From here:
http://www.motofotostudio.com/2011/...es-bias-ply-versus-radial-tires/#.U5p7mdhOU5g

To understand the difference between radials versus bias belts tires, try to imagine a tire as it rotates against the road. As the tread makes contact with the pavement, the sidewall of a tire flexes outward and causes the tire to flatten and form a contact patch. While the tire revolves, the patch lifts from the road, the sidewall bounces back into shape, and the next section of the tire’s tread replaces the previous section to maintain the patch. Bias-belted tires have cords angled from 27 to 45 degrees across the center line of the tire, and they make for a very thick and inflexible sidewall. Tires of bias-ply construction are tough as a three-dollar breakfast steak, but not nearly as flexible as is ideal.
Radial tires, on the other hand, use cords place at a 90 degree angle to the center line and provide lots more flexibility. Flexibility is the radial tire advantage. Lots of energy goes to making a bias ply tire’s sidewall stiff, and that generates heat, and heat is a tire’s worst nightmare. You need some heat to make a tire work properly, but too much will cause the tire to fail. Tubeless tires run cooler, but that’s yet another story.
The sidewall of a radial tire flexes with ease, and as a result, there’s little or no friction between the belts and that means less heat. It’s the heat advantage that also makes radial tires considerably more durable. The additional flexibility of a radial tire also makes for a larger contact patch and gives you much, much more traction, and that’s a good thing.

And from what I've read it's the flexible sidewall on Radials that improves their cornering stability.

 

[one2dmax]

Looks aside, is there a dramatic difference in performance between Kosman wheel widening and after market radial rims like what Sean offers?

Any radial sized wheel will have much more benefit then the OEM wheels. Our wheels are some of the lightest ever made and as such reduce reciprocating mass which reduces effort required to change direction of the bike. Most others (RC, UFO, MaxDaddy, Sportmax, Kosman, and others) are even heavier then stock so you only get the benefit of the radial and not the full benefit you could have.

 

[Redbone]

Any radial sized wheel will have much more benefit then the OEM wheels. Our wheels are some of the lightest ever made and as such reduce reciprocating mass which reduces effort required to change direction of the bike. Most others (RC, UFO, MaxDaddy, Sportmax, Kosman, and others) are even heavier then stock so you only get the benefit of the radial and not the full benefit you could have.

+1, I experienced this after installing the Carrozzeria's, could hardly go down the road straight! I have 31.5" wide bars which complicated my initial feeling of twitchiness but now that I'm used to the relative ease that the bike turns it has made it so easy to ride.

 

[leroycp]

+1 for sure

 

[Rollie]

I figured he was talking 500 for emulators springs & shocks which is a little short probably closer to 600 or a bit more for both & that is if you know how to install the emulators & springs your self. If not you can add a couple hundred on top of that.

Top rated shocks alone , brand new , can run $ 600 and up to the Ohlins $ 1,000 range.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Top rated shocks alone , brand new , can run $ 600 and up to the Ohlins $ 1,000 range.

Yeah I was talking about your basic 412's that is the only way he can get both ends for 600

 

[one2dmax]

I do sell Penske shocks which is on the very high end stuff too but that is about the cost of a well used Vmax.