Redbone
Well-Known Member
Now it's day whatever of our travels, and we're getting ready to head across. The schedule for the day was... GO FIND PUFFINS!!! Brian had never seen them, and I knew that in Elliston there's a puffin festival every year as they have thousands of nesting pairs on this big rock out in the bay there. So we headed up across the isthmus onto the Bonavista Peninsula. We made it up to Elliston, got to the puffin island spot, and hung out watching birds and whales for a while. We decided to stay in Clarenville that night, since it was supposed to rain (I think). There were two big groups of side-by-side drivers there. Those things are pretty cool, but I like two wheels. We had a good dinner, gave the waitress a hard time, and got some good sleep. The next day we planned to ride up through Terra Nova park and up around the next land hump/peninsula thing.
While we were riding in the construction zone we took a little detour for some, uh, gastronomic irregularities, and were on our way pretty fast. The construction wasn't as bad as we'd been told by Uncle Dennis so we made pretty good time. We went up and over, and back down to Gander for lunch at Mary Brown's (chicken place -- good stuff). Then we figured we'd made such good time, we could make it up to Twillingate to look for icebergs and camp somewhere up there. We had this great plan to go to Fogo Island the next morning, but the ferries were apparently really wonky, and decided we'd just camp and head on the next day. There was only one campsite up there with space. It was, ummm... way better for RVs. We did find the flattest available spot on the "tenting field" which was really about an 8% grade hill. Some French people came and camped next to us. The guy had a really loud voice, and was aimed right at us, but we had moos bologna and crackers for dinner, told some more stories, watched the girls across the road, and made fun of the harley guys who were acting like they owned the place. We were greeted by one of them with a "How are the yammies workin?" We told him they were great, and that I had a little fuel leak. He was like, "That's pretty bad, you better go get it checked out." When I told him I was 9,000 miles into my trip, and the leak was from plumbing in my own aux fuel tank days before the trip, he shut up pretty fast. He and his buddy had come across from Nova Scotia on the ferry, and were heading back in a couple days. I'm glad they were out riding, but they had really drunk the kool-aid with the matching shirts, hats, and attitudes purchased new from the dealer (ok, rant over).
Good times, either way.
And find Puffins we did! They are a curious looking and acting bird, when they fly sort of remind me of what a penguin would look like if they flew. Their short little wings beating furiously until they are close to the water, then a short glide onto the water. Our viewing of them were partially overshadowed by an appearance of 2 possibly three humpback whales that were feeding near the rocky islands that were just beyond the rocky perch the puffins called home. The whales were very impressive to me even though I have seen orca’s during the time I lived in the state of Washington. The first glimpse of the whales was the burst of water from their blowhole which initially puzzeled me because it was so far from me. It was from that first sighting that Dave and I concluded that we had just made up the new international hand signal for whale sightings!
Just to be clear it wasn’t the fault of the construction zone that I had gastronomic issues, more than likely it was the previous evenings dinner. I wonder if our giving the waitress a hard time had anything to do with it? Nah, a couple guys like Dave and I were probably the nicest “hard time” she had on a shift in a long time! We even tipped her quite well, shame on me for thinking “she may have doctored up our dinner”!
Fogo Island, we had a couple people say it would be worth the trip to go over, but we ran into very few people that had gone over, at least recently. It was kind of comical after a while to say the least but we decided that even if the ferry did actually get us over to Fogo, would it leave us stranded for a couple of days? In the end we decided not to chance it, so-no-go-to-Fogo!
Our nights lodging in Twillingate we thought we’d camp so we found a RV campground that also had tent area. The campground host was away at dinner or something and for our entertainment we had an aptly dressed Harley rider filling us in what was happening with the host. He was sitting on the deck outside of the office tossing a few down. Like Dave said he asked how our “Yammies” were running, we really got a chuckle about that, especially after Dave shut him up by telling him we actually worked on ours!
Ah yes, the incline campground. Like Dave said we were lucky enough to get a somewhat level spot that I only had to reposition 5 or 6 times to keep my blood from pooling in one extremity or another! The dinner may have sounded somewhat spartan but it was actually really good tasting moose sausage on some fancy crackers, along with an energy bar it probably just what the doctor ordered, gastronomically speaking. We did some shopping in a grocery store called Bidgoods which had all kinds of ocean sourced and local wild game/ berries offerings. Such exotic tastes as cod tongues, seal flipper (which I tried and liked!), seal loin’s, rabbit and partridge this is amongst other standard Newfoundland fare.
Good times indeed!