Death wobble

[Alpinerider88]

Hey all, I went from a 2004 r1 to an 85 max. Its got the r1 modedfront forks, gusseted swing arm... At around 80 in a corner still hard on the gas it wiggles like its doing the mocarina how can I fix it?

 

[KDIMD]

As you mentioned in the next post, are you running radial tire up front? Check pressure, cupping, fall away test. For balancing, I use ride on as both balance and sealant.

One thing I do notice on my r1 conversion is that the front end is much lower than stock. So if the rear has not been lowered, the geometry is off.

 

[Alpinerider88]

Its a radial up front and a bias ply out back I'm assuming. If its lower from the r1 conversion I'm guessing thats why I drag the kick stand? Is there anything i can do to the drag? Also the tire is a little cupped but its almost like tank slap

 

[one2dmax]

You may have frame and swingarm flex. Reinforced arm may help as well as a radial rear wheel (if it's not already done)

 

[MaxMidnight]

Before spending any money check the basics first:-
- Check tyre pressure
- Headrace bearings correctly adjusted
- Condition and correct volume of fluid in forks
- Static sag of front and rear suspension
- Condition of front and rear wheel bearings
- Condition and adjustment of swinging arm bearings
- Performance of rear shocks

It would also be prudent to confirm that the either the forks have been extended or the rear has been dropped to maintain the steering geometry.

More info here

If all that checks out OK then have a read of this

 

[Alpinerider88]

Before spending any money check the basics first:-
- Check tyre pressure
- Headrace bearings correctly adjusted
- Condition and correct volume of fluid in forks
- Static sag of front and rear suspension
- Condition of front and rear wheel bearings
- Condition and adjustment of swinging arm bearings
- Performance of rear shocks

It would also be prudent to confirm that the either the forks have been extended or the rear has been dropped to maintain the steering geometry.

More info here

If all that checks out OK then have a read of this

So since I am new to owning a max, what is the proper height of the front and rear suspension? Also maybe if you know the proper static sag? I'm pretty sure it is not set up right

 

[Fire-medic]

Mixing radials and bias-ply tires will give you all-sorts of issues, don't do it. Just look at your rear tire, if the size has an "R" suffix after the first numbers (the tire width/aspect ratio, as-in 170/55R) then it's a radial.

Yes, there have been a very-few bikes stock with a mix of radial and bias-ply tires, but the VMax i'snt one of them! Even mixing different designs of radial tires can make your handling screwed-up. The intersecting angles of the belts of the radial tire carcass, often at <45 degrees, versus the 'zero-degree' belt construction (belts are perpendicular, or 90 degrees to each-other) will cause horrible handling if you mix them.

 

[Redbone]

On a stock Vmax the rear shocks will be 13", being that you have a non stock front end that height is different from stock, as Mr. Midnight stated you'll need to measure. How to check your sag (link on how to)
We can help once you come up with the information. The Vmax will not ever handle like a R1 but it shouldn't wobble or shake at all, with some adjustments you will have a much better and safer handling Vmax.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Also maybe if you know the proper static sag? I'm pretty sure it is not set up right

All you need to know here.

 

[Fire-medic]

On a stock Vmax the rear shocks will be 13", being that you have a non stock front end that height is different from stock, as Mr. Midnight stated you'll need to measure. How to check your sag (link on how to)
We can help once you come up with the information. The Vmax will not ever handle like a R1 but it shouldn't wobble or shake at all, with some adjustments you will have a much better and safer handling Vmax.

That's measured, eye-to-eye, on-center, no-load, so if you measure on the bike, you won't have 13". You probably could jack-up the rear so the swingarm hangs-down, eliminating most of the sag, and find that it will measure close-to that. The shocks are easy to remove, you only need to remove one anyway to measure their unloaded length.

Preserving handling usually means removing the same amount at the front as at the rear. Two inches will really detrimentally affect cornering clearance.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Two inches will really detrimentally affect cornering clearance.

And also potentially allow the front wheel to hit the radiator under heavy breaking? (I seen to recall)

 

[Alpinerider88]

I forgot do mention that the rear shocks are not stock either,,
They are progressive brand

 

[Fire-medic]

OK, do this:

• take a picture of your front and rear tire sizes
• take a pic from the side of how your bike sits, with the front wheel straight-ahead, and the camera at engine height
• remove a rear shock and measure it on-center, eyelet-to-eyelet

Then we'll have some info about how it's equipped.