Does this look like normal wear?

[First Max]

It's seems excessive to me and there is less than 1k on this oil change. I changed it once when I bought it last fall and again this spring. It's had very fine shiny particles every time. Is this normal with a shared engine and gear box?

 

[First Max]

A brighter video

 

[Radioguylogs]

It does not look normal to me, from what I can see in the video.

Do you hear any knocking noises under various conditions?

 

[First Max]

Nothing of note. The engine sounds mechanical when idling but I don't really have anything to compare it to. I do have a little radial play between the clutch basket and the gear it's riveted to. No idea if that's normal or not. It doesn't seem to react to a magnet so it's probably aluminum

 

[Radioguylogs]

I don't want to make you worry about something that might not be a problem, but I think the crank and rod bearings are non-ferrous.

I would just ride it and keep an ear out for any knocking or rattling type noises.

 

[First Max]

Ya, that's my plan at this point. I'm going to sync the throttle body's tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[First Max]

I don't want to make you worry about something that might not be a problem, but I think the crank and rod bearings are non-ferrous.

I would just ride it and keep an ear out for any knocking or rattling type noises.

Between a little play in the clutch basket and the fact that it didn't have double clutch springs, the clutch looked pretty good and it came with a pcv I'm just hoping the previous owner smoked the clutch, changed it and sold it.

 

[El Canadiense]

Get the oil good and hot before changing. You can cut the oil filter and take a look.

 

[Stephan]

I'm no expert, but old oil is normally black not brown/muddy. Best see what happens to new oil and keep an ear out as advised above. Another investigation method which is simple if usually very dirty is to take off the sump and see what is in it and look up at crank/bearings/cases and see if they appear normal.

 

[wayne billings]

I would ask what type , brand and weight the oil is in the video. In the past I have used super tech in my old truck and I could hear that the engine was noisier and changed it as soon as I could. more noise due to oil is not a positive thing. I hope it is nothing serious.

 

[First Max]

I cut the oil filter open with chain pipe cutter. This is the worst/most of what's in there. The oil color looks normal is sun light I think the muddy color is from the camera/lighting. It just has shiny very fine shiny in it. It's definitely nonferrous. I've put 2k miles on this bike. Plenty of tire spin and a few revlimiter checks here and there. The oil has always come out looking like this. I would think if it's a rod or main it would have given up the ghost by now. When I was doing a leak down test I noticed if you try to turn the engine backwards it binds and sounds awful. I assume that's the starter clutch? My bad didn't upload the photos. I'm new to the whole forum thing.

 

[wayne billings]

If you want an oil pressure gauge , there is a affordable on at cycle one-off custom vmax parts. I have one and it is doing well for me.

 

[First Max]

I would ask what type , brand and weight the oil is in the video. In the past I have used super tech in my old truck and I could hear that the engine was noisier and changed it as soon as I could. more noise due to oil is not a positive thing. I hope it is nothing serious.

That oil was Castrol power1 10w/40. Now it has Amsoil vtwin 20/50 although it probably won't be in there for long. I don't really have a noticeable noise issue.

 

[First Max]

If you want an oil pressure gauge , there is a affordable on at cycle one-off custom vmax parts. I have one and it is doing well for me.

I have an automotive test kit at work with a bunch of weird adapters. I'll probably go grab it in a few.

 

[First Max]

I'm no expert, but old oil is normally black not brown/muddy. Best see what happens to new oil and keep an ear out as advised above. Another investigation method which is simple if usually very dirty is to take off the sump and see what is in it and look up at crank/bearings/cases and see if they appear normal.

Will the pan come down without dropping the exhaust? I just glanced at it a I can probably get the bolts out with a shortened allen wrench but it's pretty close to the exhaust crossover. Thanks.

 

[First Max]

I'd say it's on its way out. 7psi. Hot idle oil pressure. Manual says 7.3 minimum. I checked it with 4 different gauges, all within 1psi. It jumps up to about 45 psi at 3500 rpm and the needle starts to bounce +/- 4psi. I think I'm going to let it cool off and start by inspecting the oil pump then drop the sump. I guess I figured out why it was $7500 when everyone else I saw was 10k. Pretty much everything the seller told me about it ended up being a lie so I wouldn't be surprised if he knew it was hurt. Thanks for all you help everyone! 14k on it when I bought it btw now 16k.

 

[First Max]

The Oil pump looked great. I was able to reach #3+4 rod ends barely with the oil pump out. I didn't feel any excess play there. I'm going to drop the pan tonight if I have time.

 

[Stephan]

Any updates First Max?

 

[Fire-medic]

Gold minute particles is bearing material, shiny silver is probably from engagement dogs if it's magnetic, or possibly thrust surfaces from the case if it's non-magnetic and slver.

 

[First Max]

Nothing definitive. I pulled the pan and everything looked great except that shiny in the oil. Granted you can't really check the mains or much beyond rods and wrist pin play. I emailed Tim nash and he said he was getting 4psi hot oil pressure while he was testing for a low oil pressure light. He said he abandoned the low ops light because they run so low on pressure. I changed the oil a couple times thinking the po had burned out the clutch before selling it but I haven't gotten it all flushed out yet. Whatever it is, it fine enough to pass through the filter and float in the oil for 24 hours+ so I figured it's clutch.