Dreaded "0" ring facts

[sidwin]

so i bought the seal from cycle1. how does that fix the problem?

 

[dannymax]

so i bought the seal from cycle1. how does that fix the problem?

The theory is that the 'stopper' from COO makes it more difficult for the o-ring to bulge out.

If you drag race or do a lot of red line shifting it's prolly a good idea to perform this fix as the higher the oil pressure is the more force is applied against the o-ring.

 

[sidwin]

anyone have a picture of the cycle 1 mod installed? i'm trying to visualize it before actually doing it i have the part for about a month now and still haven't installed it. i even ordered new exhaust gaskets too dang hot right now

 

[[email protected]]

anyone have a picture of the cycle 1 mod installed? i'm trying to visualize it before actually doing it i have the part for about a month now and still haven't installed it. i even ordered new exhaust gaskets too dang hot right now

This is stock


See the black rubber circle on the bottom of the elbow? All you do is take off the rubber piece and replace it with the plastic piece from COO. The directions will tell you to put a dab of RTV on the plastic piece to secure it till you get the oil pan on. I didn't like the idea RTV being in there. Just in case it got out and into the pump or something so I just used a dab of grease. Worked just fine for me.

 

[SpecOps13]

mabdcmb: That's just too simple. :biglaugh: You put things into perfect focus for me.

Thanx

 

[sidwin]

This is stock


See the black rubber circle on the bottom of the elbow? All you do is take off the rubber piece and replace it with the plastic piece from COO. The directions will tell you to put a dab of RTV on the plastic piece to secure it till you get the oil pan on. I didn't like the idea RTV being in there. Just in case it got out and into the pump or something so I just used a dab of grease. Worked just fine for me.

so mike... u take the little orange o-ring off and put coo plastic piece there instead? how is that supposed to prevent oil starvation?

Thanks,
Sid

 

[SpecOps13]

sidwin,

The O-Ring doesn't come off. The rubber bumper on the bottom of the elbow comes off. The Plastic COO piece goes in it's place to hold more upward pressure on the elbow. This gives the O-Ring a tighter seal.
I'm thinking of doing the COO and Sean Morley Fixes together. Oval O-Ring and the COO Part too. Double insurance.

 

[98Redlne]

Isn't the cause of the "O-ring" issue that the increased oil pressure causes the OEM rubber bumper to compress a bit, allowing the elbow to push down and thus let the orange o-ring blow out?

It seems that the COO fix keeps the elbow from moving at all, keeping it pressed into the sleeve, thus preventing the o-ring from even being able to blow out.

Really simple fix. I will have to put this on the list for the coming "off season"

 

[Redbone]

sidwin,

The O-Ring doesn't come off. The rubber bumper on the bottom of the elbow comes off. The Plastic COO piece goes in it's place to hold more upward pressure on the elbow. This gives the O-Ring a tighter seal.
I'm thinking of doing the COO and Sean Morley Fixes together. Oval O-Ring and the COO Part too. Double insurance.

I with you there too Dave, I have the HD Oil pump already just going to add the COO fix during downtime this winter.

 

[sidwin]

sidwin,

The O-Ring doesn't come off. The rubber bumper on the bottom of the elbow comes off. The Plastic COO piece goes in it's place to hold more upward pressure on the elbow. This gives the O-Ring a tighter seal.
I'm thinking of doing the COO and Sean Morley Fixes together. Oval O-Ring and the COO Part too. Double insurance.

ok dave i'm more confused... i think i see the rubber you are referring too. so what is causing the coo seal to seal tighter? is one side of it being pushed by the oil pan and therefore the tolerances are tighter?

does anyone have the o-ring part number that sean likes to use from kawasaki?

Thanks,
Sid

 

[SpecOps13]

The COO part itself doesn't allow movement of the elbow. It (The COO Part) rests against the bottom of the pan from what I can gather and forces the elbow upward. This would make the O-Ring a tighter fit by having additional pressure applied ... More difficult or impossible to get it to blow out. As we know, nothing's impossible.:biglaugh:

Dave

 

[sidwin]

so i finished my install last night and haven't started it yet. i think the hardest part was getting the front muffler was a PITA to get lined up. i tried splitting them up and that didn't work. easiest way was to use a zip tie to hold the couplers up and out of the way and floor jack under neath. The oil pan gasket was removed with a blade but the hard to reach parts was easier to clean with a screw driver.

 

[sidwin]

ok went out for a ride on the bike. Before my idle oil pressure was 5 psi. One thing i did notice was my seal looked fine when i dropped my oil pan. Just incase i wiggled the pipe to make sure she was in there and pushed her a little bit to make sure the seal sat deep. THen i put a little atv on the COO stopper and pushed her again.

THanks,
Sid

 

[SpecOps13]

Ok, you guys convinced me to be safe rather than sorry. I ordered the handlebar mounted oil pressure gauge, the O-ring Pop Stopper kit, the spin on filter kit and curved cross member. All from COO. I figure I can atleast hook up the oil pressure gauge and monitor the situation. I'm hoping I don't have a problem right now, then I can do things in a logical order, Hopefully at the next oil change I can do the whole thing and feel secure if I miss 2nd gear again:bang head:.

I've got my fingers crossed that all of the parts are in stock at COO.:biglaugh:

Still need a couple more parts and a real exhaust system to go on,,, too.

 

[sidwin]

you might not need the spin on filter kit depending the year of your bike. you might want to check....

 

[SpecOps13]

It's a 94, changeover was 96.:biglaugh:

 

[SpecOps13]

Update: My parts came in from Tom at COO. I mounted the Gauge on the handlebars with the parts it came with. I fiddled it around until I figured it fit best on top of the bars and the one screw head at the point of the riser / clamp joint. I ran the bike last night in the garage and it showed a little higher readings vs RPM than today. May have been the gauge settling in. Definitely takes a while for the pressure to come down after the initial cold start.

Today I started the bike and let it run for about 5 minutes. The pressure was down to about 20 LBS at idle. I rode the bike to a marina to shoot some pictures of the updated graphics. We redid the fake tank cover with more contrast.

From there I took the bike to the interstate and took readings from the gauge vs the tach. Idle, 1000 RPM shows 0 LBS now.
2400 RPM = 10 LBS
3400 RPM = 20 LBS
4400 RPM = 30 LBS
5400 RPM = 40 LBS
6400 RPM = 50 LBS
7400 RPM = 60 LBS
7700 RPM and up, Bypass at 62 - 64 lbs

I know there's variation in these gauges but atleast it shows I have pressure and I know that Idle isn't really 0 LBS.

Now to get off my butt and order the exhaust, install the COO Fix with a Kawi O-Ring ( Part # 92055-1147) and forget this possible problem forever.:bang head::biglaugh:

 

[Taavinen]

Rang Yamaha over here today (also do Kawasaki at the same place). Spoke to the guy in parts and have ordered that Kawi O-ring. Talked to the guy for a bit. He says he has heard of the O-ring problem but has never seen a customer with the problem. I am apparently only the second person to order the Kawi o ring from him for this fix.
Still, i don't doubt it could be an issue, but am not worried about it. Will fit the new ring with the COO pop fix.
Why did you order the spin on oil kit? Do i need that too?

 

[SpecOps13]

I ordered the spin on kit and frame cross member because I really don't like the canister oil filter arrangement. Maybe your 92 has already been done? It just makes oil changes easier. Easier, I like...:biglaugh:

 

[Taavinen]

ROFL Spec ops. Nah it is standard all the way with my max.....at the moment