Dreaded "0" ring facts

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Ok, you guys convinced me to be safe rather than sorry. I ordered the handlebar mounted oil pressure gauge, the O-ring Pop Stopper kit, the spin on filter kit and curved cross member. All from COO. I figure I can at least hook up the oil pressure gauge and monitor the situation. I'm hoping I don't have a problem right now, then I can do things in a logical order, Hopefully at the next oil change I can do the whole thing and feel secure if I miss 2nd gear again:bang head:.

I've got my fingers crossed that all of the parts are in stock at COO.:biglaugh:

Still need a couple more parts and a real exhaust system to go on,,, too.
I HAD MY KIT FOR LIKE A MONTH & WAS STILL CONTEMPLATING PUTTING IT IN OR NOT , SO WITH ALL THE TALK ON THE FORUM ABOUT IT & ME KNOWING THAT IF I HAVE THE KIT & DO NOT PUT IT IN , THAT I WILL BE THE POSTER CHILD & BLOW MY MOTOR , SO I PUT IT IN & NOW SLEEP LIKE A BABY , AND DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT ! ... IT WAS WORTH IT , JUST FOR PIECE OF MIND ! ... :punk:
 
COP RUNNER: I put the Oil Pressure Gauge on. I have the COO parts but as long as I have oil pressure, I'm waiting. I have to decide on the exhaust system I want, too many possible configurations. I'll do the exhaust and other fixes all at once.

I did adjust the shifter so it's all but impossible to miss a gear again.:biglaugh:
 
COP RUNNER: I put the Oil Pressure Gauge on. I have the COO parts but as long as I have oil pressure, I'm waiting. I have to decide on the exhaust system I want, too many possible configurations. I'll do the exhaust and other fixes all at once.

I did adjust the shifter so it's all but impossible to miss a gear again.:biglaugh:
NO DOUGHT , DO IT ALL AT THE SAME TIME & TAKE YOUR TIME DOING IT ! .. :punk: .. IF YOU GET FRUSTRATED , WALK AWAY & GO BACK AT IT THE NEXT DAY ! ... THE WORST PART OF THE JOB TO ME WAS , SCRAPING THE OLD GASKET OFF THE OIL PAN & BLOCK WITH A RAZOR BLADE , BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TAKE ANY OF THE ALUMINUM WITH IT !
 
OK, I'm getting ready to go into uncharted territory. Atleast for me. I have the COO Part and Gasket. I have no clue if My O-Ring has partially popped out or not. Oil pressure with COO Gauge seams fine or at least close. My Marks Exhaust will be here Thursday.

I can't find a definitive article with pictures that shows the process of actually replacing the O-Ring. I suspect there's more to it than just twisting the tube down, removing the old O-Ring and installing the Kawi replacement which I don't have yet. I may have to document my trials and tribulations as I'm doing the mod, but help me with some insight or something so I won't have the bike apart for week and weeks. I have to go on vacation somewhere besides my garage....:biglaugh:

What additional parts may I need?

Help...............:rofl_200:

I wanna hear that V-8 Sound before I go....
 
Take a look here at what I did to correct the bulging oring.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=153567&postcount=19

I took the J tube to a bench grinder to shave a couple mm's off so it sits deeper. Then clam it down with a hose clam. It did take a bit of forming so the cover fit nicely back on. This was an easy, quick, and effective fix. There is no way that the oring will ever have an issue again.
 
Once you get the pan off, there really isn't much more to it than pulling the old elbow down and out, replacing the o-ring, and then shoving it back into place. Pretty easy.
 
hexec: Wow, that'll never go anywhere.:biglaugh: A forever fix.......

[email protected]: If that's really the case, That's exactly what I needed to hear. I'd heard rumors that the piping was all connected and would split or break apart or you'd FU all the O-Rings associated with it if you tried to pull the pipe down and replace the O-ring.. Thanx, now all I need is the Kawi O-Ring...That and the COO Fix I already have will be good enough for piece of mind...
 
My experience with the "dreaded O-Ring" First is the o-ring it self. Second is one of the crank main bearings worn to the copper. third is the crank with slight scoring. Luckly second gear second gear started to give up so i tore it down before serious damage could happen. This motor spent most of its life at 110%. Around 100 to 110 1/4 mile passes this year.
 

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I took my 94 (W/ 17,000 miles on it) down last week to check and replace the Dreaded O-Ring with the Kawasaki Part that I had Sean send. I installed Marks Exhaust at the same time so I had him send new exhaust gaskets too. I also did the Cycle One Off Mod, it came with a new pan gasket and the more solid, longer button / spacer / stand off to go at the bottom of the Main / Secondary Oil Galley Pipe.. Sure would have been nice to have some real instructions for this job. I called Sean in the middle of doing it to be sure I didn't screw anything up. He, as always was more than happy to help.

I didn't have to remove the oil level sensor as the wiring was long enough to reach the floor still connected to the pan.

There's no way you can just pull the pipe down to get at the O-Ring without further work. I backed out the 2 front bolts holding the Main / Secondary Oil Galley "The Pluming" in place. I didn't pull them all the way out.

When I got to the third, rear bolt, I applied quite a bit of force, trying to move it in both directions. I had a 500 Suzuki Titan that had a left hand thread on the connection of the oil injection. That's when I called Sean. He told me it was a standard right thread, just apply more force. When I did it finally came off. There's a weird copper washer that's held on just above this bolt. Again, I didn't take the bolt all the way out. At this point I could pull the pluming down but still lacked the clearance to R&R the O-Ring. The oil pump and pickup hold the primary pump pipe in place and that pipe stops further movement, atleast on mine. Check yours first..... 3 allen head screws hold this in place. I backed them out about 1/8" so the primary pump pipe could drop just a bit.

I removed the orange stock ring and put some oil on the Kawasaki O-Ring to install it. It's sort of a snug fit. A much wider and tougher O-Ring than stock.

I pushed the Main / Secondary Oil Galley back into place, insuring that the smaller O-Rings on it's branches reseated where they needed to be. I tightened the 2 front bolts, then the rear. I cleaned the bottom of the pipe, where I'd removed the stock rubber spacer. Put a tiny bit of the Black RTV at the bottom and inserted the Cycle One Off Plastic Spacer. Next, I re-tightened the Oil Pump / Pick up, gradually going in a circle until the 3 screws were tight at the same time and same amount.

My old pan gasket was stuck to the engine rather than the pan so it was a PITA to get off. I used a small amount of Black RTV on the pan side for the new gasket to be sure it would come off that way next time. That was good because I opened it back up the next morning, just to be sure everything was secure and in place. It worked quite nicely.

Note, As Sean has mentioned, I don't believe any damage was done to my engine having the side of the O-Ring popped out of place. It still had enough oil flowing to survive. I did gain overall oil pressure after the job was completed but not to an extreme. There were no metal shavings in the oil or pan.

If this helps one person, I'm a Happy Camper....:biglaugh:
 

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So far, I have dismatled 3 engines, one of them I did not really look for the O-ring and it was before I knew about it, the other two had that O-ring bulged out. This photo is fresh, still steaming,,,:biglaugh:
 

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Dropped the pan on my 05' with 36,000km's on it today (22,500 miles), o-ring was exactly where it's supposed to be.:biglaugh:
 
I took my 94 (W/ 17,000 miles on it) down last week to check and replace the Dreaded O-Ring with the Kawasaki Part that I had Sean send. I installed Marks Exhaust at the same time so I had him send new exhaust gaskets too. I also did the Cycle One Off Mod, it came with a new pan gasket and the more solid, longer button / spacer / stand off to go at the bottom of the Main / Secondary Oil Galley Pipe.. Sure would have been nice to have some real instructions for this job. I called Sean in the middle of doing it to be sure I didn't screw anything up. He, as always was more than happy to help.

I didn't have to remove the oil level sensor as the wiring was long enough to reach the floor still connected to the pan.

There's no way you can just pull the pipe down to get at the O-Ring without further work. I backed out the 2 front bolts holding the Main / Secondary Oil Galley "The Pluming" in place. I didn't pull them all the way out.

When I got to the third, rear bolt, I applied quite a bit of force, trying to move it in both directions. I had a 500 Suzuki Titan that had a left hand thread on the connection of the oil injection. That's when I called Sean. He told me it was a standard right thread, just apply more force. When I did it finally came off. There's a weird copper washer that's held on just above this bolt. Again, I didn't take the bolt all the way out. At this point I could pull the pluming down but still lacked the clearance to R&R the O-Ring. The oil pump and pickup hold the primary pump pipe in place and that pipe stops further movement, at least on mine. Check yours first..... 3 allen head screws hold this in place. I backed them out about 1/8" so the primary pump pipe could drop just a bit.

I removed the orange stock ring and put some oil on the Kawasaki O-Ring to install it. It's sort of a snug fit. A much wider and tougher O-Ring than stock.

I pushed the Main / Secondary Oil Galley back into place, insuring that the smaller O-Rings on it's branches reseated where they needed to be. I tightened the 2 front bolts, then the rear. I cleaned the bottom of the pipe, where I'd removed the stock rubber spacer. Put a tiny bit of the Black RTV at the bottom and inserted the Cycle One Off Plastic Spacer. Next, I re-tightened the Oil Pump / Pick up, gradually going in a circle until the 3 screws were tight at the same time and same amount.

My old pan gasket was stuck to the engine rather than the pan so it was a PITA to get off. I used a small amount of Black RTV on the pan side for the new gasket to be sure it would come off that way next time. That was good because I opened it back up the next morning, just to be sure everything was secure and in place. It worked quite nicely.

Note, As Sean has mentioned, I don't believe any damage was done to my engine having the side of the O-Ring popped out of place. It still had enough oil flowing to survive. I did gain overall oil pressure after the job was completed but not to an extreme. There were no metal shavings in the oil or pan.

If this helps one person, I'm a Happy Camper....:biglaugh:
i THATS A GOOD SIGN , ( NO METAL SAVINGS IN THE OIL ) ! .. I HAD LUCKED OUT WITH MY GASKET , THERE WAS ONLY ABOUT A ONE INCH PIECE THAT WAS STUCK TO THE ENGINE ! .. I BET YOU FEEL A LOT BETTER NOW THAT YOU DID THE " O " RING FIX , RIGHT ? .. :clapping: .. :eusa_dance:
 
COP RUNNER: Yes, I feel great knowing that it won't pop out again. But, I now have an 89 that I seriously need to do the same thing to.:bang head: If I don't have enough problems to deal with I always make more for myself.:rofl_200:
 
After pulling my 94 down, I thought I had this whole Dreaded O-Ring Thing figured out. The 94 for the most part is very low mileage at 17,000 miles. The bike seems to have been very well maintained and cleaned prior to my buying it 4 years ago. The O-Ring in it was Popped Out so I figured that most of the older VMax's out there must be the same. I put the Kamikaze O-Ring in and all was well. I found no damage from the O-Ring being popped out.

My 89 looks like it's had the Dog **** run out of it, just by the fact that it was dirty and a lot of things were Mickey Moused on it. The bike has 34,000 miles on it. I pulled the Kerker 4-1 which I'm repairing and repainting and dropped the pan. The oil was fine, no metal flakes or any sign of excessive wear. Believe me, I even ran the magnet through the drained oil looking for something there.

The O-Ring was perfectly in place, It totally amazed me. I dropped the 3 bolts holding the O-Ring's plumbing and then dropped the oil pump about 1/8" by loosening the 3 screws holding it. Removed and replaced the O-Ring with the Kamikaze part and tightened everything up. the new O-Ring was very hard to seat, I had to carefully pry between the oil pump pipe and the pipe with the O-Ring once all the bolts were tightened again. then it finally seated all the way.
It's in place forever...

Now I feel that I know nothing about the likelyhood that this O-Ring will be popped out on other bikes. :confused2::ummm::bang head::rofl_200:

I really wonder now that the bike is back together, if someone didn't install the Yamaha updated parts at some point in the past. Duh on me, I didn't even think of checking that out prior to reassembly.

Pictures, I did the bottom shot of the pipe because the first shot was at an angle and almost gives the impression that the O-Ring may be out of place. It was perfectly seated. The 3rd shot shows the 2 pipes that I carefully pried against to get the new O-Ring seated. It was taken prior to any work beginning and is just for referance.
 

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i ARE YOU REPLACING THE RUBBER BUTTON ON THE END OF THE ELBOW WITH THE PLASTIC UPDATED ONE ? .. :confused2:
 
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