drive shaft leak

[user 16790]

I have oil leaking out of the rubber boot on the drive shaft of my 1991 model, I thought (hoped) it would be one of the seals in the actual shaft area but the oil that is visible is a different colour to my final gear case oil, it smells different too, so it must be from the back of the engine,
I have read that to do that area it needs a special tool which I do not have so I will have to take it to someone else to get done,
what I'd like information on if possible please, what type of seal is needed in that area, I've read differing articles where some say 'o-ring' and some say 'seal', is there more than one seal o-ring needed ?
I want to be able to buy the part before giving it to my dealer so it doesn't get taken apart and then left for ages while they order the part, thank you

 

[user 16790]

just a clarification, what I've seen listed as a 'seal' I've also seen listed as a 'dust cover', would it be that it is just the 'o-ring' that keeps the oil in and is it flexible enough to stretch over parts without having to remove the universal joint

 

[MaxMidnight]

You only need the tool if you want to fully dismantle the middle gear; it isn't required to remove the Drive gear bearing housing (#17).
The u/j can be removed once you have removed the circlips that retain the bearings which then gives you access to the retaining nut which holds the u/j onto the output shaft.
You will now be able to remove the Drive gear bearing housing.
O ring (#19) seals the housing to the middle gear casing but I can't remember if it is just the dust seal (#18) that stops the slippery stuff that has passed through the bearings.
Note also that you will must replace the collapsible collar.

 

[user 16790]

thank you for the information, which part is the collapsible collar and is it possible to replace the o-ring without removing the universal joint

 

[user 16790]

I think I've figured it out to be number 12

 

[Fire-medic]

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50043181f8700209bc78af4a/middle-drive-gear
Part #12
Spacer, Expansion

2H7-17571-01-00

$15.77
____________________________________________________________

Part #18
Oil Seal

93101-35085-00

$11.08
____________________________________________________________

Part #19
O-Ring

93210-71360-00

$5.78





https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50043183f8700209bc78af51/drive-shaft

 

[one2dmax]

#12 is not a seal. AND I don't generally worry about replacing it just to replace #18 (most likely part). I don't also remove or take apart the u-joint since you can get a box wrench in there to remove the nut. Very small turns though. I do usually remove the entire assembly (#17) then do the work on the bench.

 

[Fire-medic]

#12 is not a seal. AND I don't generally worry about replacing it just to replace #18 (most likely part). I don't also remove or take apart the u-joint since you can get a box wrench in there to remove the nut. Very small turns though. I do usually remove the entire assembly (#17) then do the work on the bench.

Sean, will there be adequate room for a ratcheting box end wrench, like a Gearwrench? I understand that one manufacturer's ratcheting box end wrench head may work where another won't, because of sizing. Is it a typical, right-hand thread (R-tighty, L-loosey)? Will the transmission left in-gear be sufficient to loosen the nut? I suppose with the bearing housing and helical gearshaft being removed, you can just secure it in a vise? Any worries about marking the gear from clamping it in a vise, or is it a high-grade steel, not-prone to being marked by the vise jaws? Or, should you use brass sleeves over the vise jaws in the clamping of the helical gearshaft? Or perhaps wood blocks?

 

[one2dmax]

It is a normal thread direction but there is just not much room in there. I haven't tried the gear wrench though. Yes, I have done it in the chassis before. When removed from the engine I vice up on the sides of the exposed gear which is sticking out just enough from the housing. It's nearly indestructible steel.

 

[Fire-medic]

It is a normal thread direction but there is just not much room in there. I haven't tried the gear wrench though. Yes, I have done it in the chassis before. When removed from the engine I vice up on the sides of the exposed gear which is sticking out just enough from the housing. It's nearly indestructible steel.

Thank-you, once-again, for your free dispensing of VMax knowledge.

 

[user 16790]

this is great, thank you all, just have to figure out if I'm able to do it with my knackered wrist now

ps. I ordered the parts '12' '18' and '19' from Fowlers as I'm in the uk

I went for a ride today and then did a smell test of the accumulated oil on the frame rail, it definitely smells like engine oil, the gear oil is a strange smell

 

[82ndCowboy]

[QUOTE="the gear oil is a strange smell
[/QUOTE]

Not to some gear heads.
LOL

 

[02GF74]

re: crush tube
I would expect this works in the same way as on car differentials - from memory you tighten up the nut to set the preload on the gears crushing the tube in the process.
The tubes have one or more semi-circular regions that bow outwards when the tube is compressed, should you want to reuse it, all you need to do is to apply a hammer to those sections to flatten them a tiny bit - you don't need much extension - I've done it on a Ford English diff without any issues whatsoever.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

When you have the driveshaft out, check that Ujoint. Make sure there are no tight spots or spots that feel like a "click". Bad ujoints will eat up a seal in a heartbeat.