Driving lights

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Bacon_grease

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Alright, I've covered luggage and wind protection and highway bars...

Now, driving lights. Does the V Max have enough stator capacity to carry a pair of 55W driving lights?
 
No the max is 35 wt, get a high quality light bulb and headlight relays.
that is the short answer.

Bacon_grease said:
Alright, I've covered luggage and wind protection and highway bars...

Now, driving lights. Does the V Max have enough stator capacity to carry a pair of 55W driving lights?
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launch box
 
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Happy with my PIAA "Plasma" bulb and additional Kasan "Pathblaser" modulator. Flat topped, very white beams and the modulator really gets yu noticed in the daylight.
Lew
 
Bacon_grease said:
Alright, I've covered luggage and wind protection and highway bars...

Now, driving lights. Does the V Max have enough stator capacity to carry a pair of 55W driving lights?

Are you taking about a extra set of lights or replacing the existing bulbs? If it is extra lights, I don't think the VMax can handle an extra 110 watts. As sad as that sounds, the VMax is fairly boarderline in electrical output, which is why it has charging issues when connectors start getting dirty. There is a double relay mod for your headlight that makes a huge difference in light output from your stock headlight. I'll try and find it and toss it up here.
 
On a slightly different note the electric vest I have ordered draws 3-3.5 amps and 45 watts. Will my 99 Max handle that??????
Thanks.
 
Buster Hymen said:
Are you taking about a extra set of lights or replacing the existing bulbs? If it is extra lights, I don't think the VMax can handle an extra 110 watts. As sad as that sounds, the VMax is fairly boarderline in electrical output, which is why it has charging issues when connectors start getting dirty. There is a double relay mod for your headlight that makes a huge difference in light output from your stock headlight. I'll try and find it and toss it up here.

Yeah, I'm hopin' to mount a pair of additional driving lights.... I'll figger something out to make it work (assuming I learned something in all those ******* electrical engineering courses I'm taking :29: )

Don't worry about diggin' up the link on headlight relays, I've got too much practice putting those in. (seriously, would it be THAT much more expensive/difficult for bike/car manufacturers to put those damned things in????)

Back to the driving lights.... perhaps a small "booster" battery to hold the few extra electrons the VMax makes in daylight for use during evening/rain and a voltimeter to make sure I don't use too many electrons at night and can't start in the morning.:confused2:
 
I have a set of 55 watt mounted to mine (on the belly pan) Have had no problems to date with them.
 

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What kind of light is that? Did you do any relay mods?
 
I have a cybermax headlight that replaces the stock one of 55/60 watts; I'm running Two 100 watt H3's in it, so I've added 150 watts load, which is about 12.5 amps, or in reality it's closer to 10.7 amps since the bike runs at 14 volts and not 12. It's pushed the system to it's limit but I've had no problems with it. I've probably racked up 2000 miles running it like this so far.

I think somewhere in ths thread or elsewhere in the electrical thread I posted what the actual watts capability of the Vmax is along with how much it consumes normally.

If I remember right the normal load is about 70-75% of the system capability. Now I'm pretty much at 100% which I'm sure is prolly gonna shorten the life of my Generator or R/R eventually.
 
I've made my headlight set-up as follows:

Replaced the stock headlight with a little bit smaller double headlights. Both have 55W H3 bulbs in. The connection logic is changed so that when the switch is in "LO" position, only one of the headlights is on. When the switch is in "HI" position, both are on.

The advantage is that you don't need to use all lighting when not necessary, but you also have the "all-out" option available.

The connection is easy to arrange. Just open the HI/LO switch and you find there three wires; yellow, blue and green. There are small drops of open metal at the switch end of each wire. Then just carefully solder the drops at the end of blue and green wires together - that's it! Moreover, if necessary, the modification is not doing any harm for wiring and it can be returned to it's original state any time by easily soldering the joint open again.
 

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