EFI conversion on a Gen-1

[CaptainKyle]

Any details on that? Would love to learn how others did it.

I would have to ask him. I can't recall everything he has told me.

 

[RempageR1]

I would have to ask him. I can't recall everything he has told me.

Pictures also help

 

[CaptainKyle]

Pictures also help

This is all I can find going thru our old text. He used Hayabusa throttle bodies

 

[RempageR1]

This is all I can find going thru our old text. He used Hayabusa throttle bodies

Thank you! Very interesting pictures and good work! The magnet for the cam sensor is a pretty cool feature

 

[RempageR1]

Impressive work, well done.

Unless I've missed it I would be interested to know what difference it has made to torque, power and fuel consumption.

Without any major rework of the intake and exhaust, the power will be similar to carbs. Fuel consumption whilst cruising with some stop and go traffic is about 44MPG. 49MPG is doable on 64 mph. I do run Sean`s overdrive venture transmission kit so that also helps.

 

[RempageR1]

As mentioned, it might be worth investigating using EFI with the stock carbs. To do that, I designed the first iteration of the new manifolds. Since the wall thickness has to be much thicker for 3d printed pieces compared to the original aluminium ones, I cannot use the originial boots/rubbers, the outer diameter is just too big. So it`s going to be slip-on as you see here. The final manifolds will be printed with carbon/nylon again which has some elasticity. Hopfefully can tighten them up some more with the original clamps even though it`s already a nice tight fit. Below is the first print, which needs about 5mm extra height as you can see:



The injector is located on the inside. I don't think it`s ideal to have it on the side but due to lack of space it`s the only option right now. If anyone has some smart ideas about that let me know


As always, to be continued.

 

[Fab333]

As mentioned, it might be worth investigating using EFI with the stock carbs. To do that, I designed the first iteration of the new manifolds. Since the wall thickness has to be much thicker for 3d printed pieces compared to the original aluminium ones, I cannot use the originial boots/rubbers, the outer diameter is just too big. So it`s going to be slip-on as you see here. The final manifolds will be printed with carbon/nylon again which has some elasticity. Hopfefully can tighten them up some more with the original clamps even though it`s already a nice tight fit. Below is the first print, which needs about 5mm extra height as you can see:

View attachment 95988

The injector is located on the inside. I don't think it`s ideal to have it on the side but due to lack of space it`s the only option right now. If anyone has some smart ideas about that let me know
View attachment 95989

As always, to be continued.

you could try putting a recess on the inside, so you could put a thin Oring for a better seal.

 

[02GF74]

I have to say this is one of, if not, the most impressive modification threads I seen anywhere. So very well done.

I have most of the skills to do this but have no enthusiasm to even start.

Anyways, been meaning to post this a while back, a friend of mine mentioned that there are companies that do 3D metal printing. The way I remember it is that metal is mixed with a filler so once printed, the piece is heated so the filler melts and the metal fuses together. (obviously the printed part is made slightly larger than the final piece bigger due material loss)

I would expect an inlet made that way would end up with thinner walls and be more heat resistant, possibly stronger too.

He said the cost was not prohibitive so it may be something for you to investigate.

Re. Injectors, there may be smaller ones than the ones you are using that would allow better placement.... I sure you've looked already.

 

[RempageR1]

you could try putting a recess on the inside, so you could put a thin Oring for a better seal.

Yes that might be a good addition, will look into that. Thanks!

 

[RempageR1]

I have to say this is one of, if not, the most impressive modification threads I seen anywhere. So very well done.

I have most of the skills to do this but have no enthusiasm to even start.

Anyways, been meaning to post this a while back, a friend of mine mentioned that there are companies that do 3D metal printing. The way I remember it is that metal is mixed with a filler so once printed, the piece is heated so the filler melts and the metal fuses together. (obviously the printed part is made slightly larger than the final piece bigger due material loss)

I would expect an inlet made that way would end up with thinner walls and be more heat resistant, possibly stronger too.

He said the cost was not prohibitive so it may be something for you to investigate.

Re. Injectors, there may be smaller ones than the ones you are using that would allow better placement.... I sure you've looked already.

Thanks for the compliment! Much appreciated!

Yes, this is just for prototyping, if in the end it will be a commercial product it has to be metal (printed or CNC). If 3D metal printing provies a strong result with the right cost, that will be the way to go.

For now, heat is not an issue. I`ve used my soldering iron on the carbon/nylon ones and nothing happens till about 200 degrees celcius. Since it`s inlet side and the head is watercooled, the inlet never goes above 100 degrees.

Indeed it`s hard to find smaller injectors that still has have enough flow. There might be moped ones that are smaller but they are not usable. So far, no options there. Some more investigating required but I doubt it would really make difference if they are injecting from the side.