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Well-Known Member
Thats a pretty good deal :eusa_dance:. Money WELL spent
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Thats a pretty good deal :eusa_dance:. Money WELL spent
I will have to check I can sell the whole front end kit minus oil & seals for 240 I am sure I could get oil & seal in there & come out about same but the seals would be aftermarket. I am sure for that price there not Yamaha seals.
After doing some research into installing fork springs/emulator it sounds pretty reasonable for me to do myself. The two things I'm confused about are the references to setting the "sag" and setting the "preload." Sounds like these are a result of the spacer length, am I wrong? What should I be doing for these; any starting points? I think I’m going to hold off on installing the seals for now as I don’t want to completely break down my forks and I had the seals replaced about 3 years ago. I read through the thread “How To: Install fork springs (late model gen 1)” and it looks like the recommended way is to remove the calipers, and wheel, then remove the tubes from the bike. I think that I have fork oil drain bolts (I would have to remove the front axle to get access to them if they are in fact drain bolts). Would I be able to do this with the forks intact, fishing the washers out with a coat hanger wire, or should I just take them off the bike? Thanks in advance for any advice.
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
If your gonna put in ractech emulators, you're gonna have to remove the damper rod, which means disassembling the forks, which means you might as well do the seals.
Maybe not...it's been several months since i did mine and I just said eff it and rebuilt the forks
regards from my tapatalking android...
Maybe not...it's been several months since i did mine and I just said eff it and rebuilt the forks
regards from my tapatalking android...
Hmmm....Race Tech says, "These tunable valves sit on top of the damping rods and are held in place by the main springs. This makes them both simple to install and completely tunable for all conditions and rider preferences." When you installed yours did you have to remove the damper rod to get them to sit right?
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
You have to drill holes in the damper rods to basically neutralize them
regards from my tapatalking android...
regards from my tapatalking android...
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ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
now that i'm on a computer...
http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/cartridge_emulators.htm
here's a pic of one side of one of my damper rods
http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/cartridge_emulators.htm
here's a pic of one side of one of my damper rods
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
The forks have to come off and be completely disassembled.
Damper rod needs removed and drilled out as Ninjaneer shows
Ricor intiminators do not require this. Progressive emulators do.
Damper rod needs removed and drilled out as Ninjaneer shows
Ricor intiminators do not require this. Progressive emulators do.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Ricor for Damping rod forks? No drill?
How do they nuetralize the damping rod? I'm interested?
Never mind...I just went and looked myself.....These look to me to be maybe a better design than the racetech emulators I have....
What I'd really be interested are are some that could be adjusted without dissasembly...But I think they call those "sport bike front end convesrions"
Thanks for the pic and the clarification Ninjaneer. I appreciate you taking the time to post that. Looks like I have a full fledged project on my hands. Hopefully Race Tech has some basic instructions they send with them. I did call my mechanic earlier in the day and he quoted me $200 for the springs and emulators (which he said he was very familiar with), as well as seals. I'm gonna do some more research on this site (I saw there was a reference to a video for the installation somewhere) and hopefully give it a whirl. From my research so far it looks like breaking the forks apart and replacing the seals is the hardest part. If I can do this myself, I think I might throw some cash down on some Progressive 440's next month, which I think should be the next logical step (maybe those will get rid of the feeling of driving an old mattress).
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
$200 is probably a pretty fair price form someone else to do it....
Use this forum tho and you can spend that $200 on something else......I'ts not too tough of a job......you might/probably will need an impact
I have used a clothes closet dowel rod instead of that fancy tool they sell that pokes down in there to hold the damper from spinning. You just shave down the end till it'll barely fit..
Another trick is to bust those allen bolts loose at the bottom of the forks before doing anything else, that way the spring pressure inside the forks will hold the damper rod from spinning when you hit it with an impact..
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
If your in there already, spend the extra and do the seals since then they will be brand new and you wont have to worry for awhile. Better safe than sorry!!! As to removing the dampening rod, you need an impact wrench to break the bolt loose and for assembly, you can use the backend of a broom stick or long paint roller extension which worked just fine for me without any modifications. You just need to be able to hold it still to thread the bolt back on and get the impact wrench going to tighten it back up!
Just my 2 cents worth.....
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
I've got a cheap compressor and impact gun. I couldn't break one of the damper bolts loose with it. I used a breaker bar on the tight one. I kept the fork assembled. Came right apart with no drama.
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
+1 very simple project. Good advice to get impact gun. Once you complete this project, you'll realize how crazy simple it is and how crazy unbelievable it is to pay someone else to do this, at which point all kinds of other projects become possible--some of which an impact gun would be useful.
PM me if you have decided to DIY this. I'll be happy to provide you my support hot line.
This is how i did it. much success. also i did this when it came time to tighten the dampen rods. have you seen Sean's youtube vid, yet?
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
I'm planning on doing this myself on Saturday. After watching Sean's videos, reading up on other threads, and going through the instructions that came with the springs/ emulators in the mail, I feel pretty good about it. I found a friend with an impact gun that I can borrow, so I'm pretty pyched about that after looking at how expensive they are. The parts that I'm somewhat unsure of:
-How to lift the front end of the bike (my highway pegs are not solid and have hinges; have one jack but that would be a balancing act).
-Setting the seals. What size PVC? I saw on another thread that someone just "found the right size allen that fills in the gap between the lower and the tube and hit the top of the allen carefully with a small ballpeen hammer" - this seems like it would damage the seals?
-Emulator tuning. As of now, I'm planning on using the 64lb springs with two turns, and leaving 2 valve holes, with 15w oil. Has anyone found a better starting point than this (40lb srings, more turns, lighter oil, more valve holes, etc.)?
Thanks for the replies and wish me luck.
Glen
-How to lift the front end of the bike (my highway pegs are not solid and have hinges; have one jack but that would be a balancing act).
-Setting the seals. What size PVC? I saw on another thread that someone just "found the right size allen that fills in the gap between the lower and the tube and hit the top of the allen carefully with a small ballpeen hammer" - this seems like it would damage the seals?
-Emulator tuning. As of now, I'm planning on using the 64lb springs with two turns, and leaving 2 valve holes, with 15w oil. Has anyone found a better starting point than this (40lb srings, more turns, lighter oil, more valve holes, etc.)?
Thanks for the replies and wish me luck.
Glen
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
unk:hmmm.....i dunno what to say cuz i place stands under my engine guards and one jack, i'm sure someone'll chime in.
yes the PVC is great--provides a more uniformity, but i just used an old seal, or was it one of the "old" washers?? man it's been a while, any ways i put whatever it was over the new seal and VERY carefully tapped a punch around the circumference of the seal. not as quick, but worked just as well
i'm 160lbs sopping wet and ride slightly forward. i started with the blue at the recommended # of turns and ended up with the yellow with 3 turns...or was it the other way around? (aar, i started with the lighter and ended up with the heavier poundage). i started out with 10 wt and have ended up with 15w at the recommended level.
it's gonna really end up depending on your impression of what a good ride should feel like, but what you've called out sounds like a good starting point.
here's a site i used to guide me through my tuning process:
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/setup_2.htm
keeping in mind the following:
There are four tuning variables for damping: oil viscosity, which is selected to properly control rebound damping; the preload on the Emulator spring, which controls low- and mid-speed damping; the Emulator's spring stiffness itself, which controls high-speed damping; and the bleed-hole size, which affects low-speed damping.
Minus breaking the end of a retainer clip everything was going as expected until I realized Race Tech sent me the wrong size emulator kit:bang head:. The Emulator adapter is too large to sit correctly to form a seal. The outside diameter of the adapter is the same as the outside diameter of the emulator so both are wrong. Since I found this out past business hours on Saturday I wasn't able to contact anyone at Race Tech. I sent them an email and plan on calling them first thing Monday. Hopefully their customer service will come through and get me the correct kit quickly.
Just got off the phone with Race Tech and they in fact sent me the wrong emulator kit. They sent me the 4101 when I really needed the 4301. I will have the part by Thursday, but this still screws up my commute for the week and people on this forum have posted before that Race Tech's database is a shot in the dark for '93 on up (here: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=4231&highlight=race+tech+emulator ). Wish someone at Race Tech would update this as I'm sure this happens on a regular basis. Maybe they should just send both and have you send back the one that doesn't fit.
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
Sorry to here of your probs. I had thought everything had gone well since my hotline didn't ring. HEHEHEHE.
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