06VMAXIMUS
Well-Known Member
Looks to me like the large chunk of metal in the last pic of your last post could def. be the problem!
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Miles Long
Well-Known Member
I'm surprised that no one as yet has mentioned the infamous "o-ring" problem -
You may want to address this, before buttoning up your engine.
Best of luck
You may want to address this, before buttoning up your engine.
Best of luck
Hey Maximus, the large chunk of metal is actually a large chunk of busted water jacket. Unless you're referring to the engine itself, LOL,,just kidding. After I took the heads apart I busted the water jackets to remove them. I have replaced all the orings that I can find. The ones in the oil pump were A-ok however I do have new ones, I'm now the proud owner of a ton of gaskets. Buy stock in the gasket market.
I do have a valve that's stuck open.
Well, off to buy a couple more tools, some paint stripper and another case of beer. Working on this thing is turning me into an alcoholic.
I do have a valve that's stuck open.
Well, off to buy a couple more tools, some paint stripper and another case of beer. Working on this thing is turning me into an alcoholic.
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Miles Long
Well-Known Member
I have replaced all the orings that I can find. The ones in the oil pump were A-ok however I do have new ones,
Just to clarify, since you are new to the V-max, and perhaps not familiar with the problem-
The "O-ring fix" mentioned involves replacing the stock orange o-ring on the oil pump discharge piping, with a Kawasaki o-ring, and/or installing a bracket to hold the ring/discharge elbow in place. Many owners notice a partially extruded o-ring when they drop their oil pan, this is why the alteration(s) have come about. It is widely believed that the o-ring slips out of place when the bike is over-revved, before the lubricating oil has warmed to operating temperature. As you know, oil pressure is higher when the oil is colder.
Hopefully,other more computer-savvy forum members will post links to past posts detailing this topic, and perhaps a link to the manufacturer of the bracket.
Cheers!
Just to clarify, since you are new to the V-max, and perhaps not familiar with the problem-
The "O-ring fix" mentioned involves replacing the stock orange o-ring on the oil pump discharge piping, with a Kawasaki o-ring, and/or installing a bracket to hold the ring/discharge elbow in place. Many owners notice a partially extruded o-ring when they drop their oil pan, this is why the alteration(s) have come about. It is widely believed that the o-ring slips out of place when the bike is over-revved, before the lubricating oil has warmed to operating temperature. As you know, oil pressure is higher when the oil is colder.
Hopefully,other more computer-savvy forum members will post links to past posts detailing this topic, and perhaps a link to the manufacturer of the bracket.
Cheers!
Hmm, I wonder which Kawasaki oring works. I've seen pics on this forum of partially extruded orings. The way my elbow fits in there I can't imagine it coming out. There are three bolts holding the pipe in place. But hey since I'm running out of things to take off the bike I should do the upgrade. Here is a picture of my oil pump tube. And Barnette Clutch. Thanks for the oil pump tube tip! If there is anything else I should be wary of please chime in.
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Hi brownrxmd!
I've only just read this thread. There is a couple of points in your description which don't quite make sense, but that is always the way!!
I agree with Seans original diagnosis re the cam timing.
When you said removing the cams didn't help it turn, I thought maybe you had dropped a foreign object down the inlet port. I liked this diagnosis better because it would explain why you could turn the motor to start off with.
I can't think why bad cam timing would let the engine turn for a while and then stop.
A nut dropped into an inlet port might stay out of the way for a few revolutions, and then jam in somewhere. That idea is not likely to bent 2 valves perfectly the same though.
The pictures you have posted show bent exhaust valves. They jammed open because of a tiny bend in the stem.
If you want my 2 cents worth, get those checked out properly.
I couldn't tell if the cam timing was right in those pics, because I can't remember how they go!
I also couldn't see in the pics if there was a witness mark on top of the piston that lines up with those bent valves. (There should be a mark in the carbon where the edge of the valves were hitting.) That would indicate the exhaust cam timing was off.
Also, the pictures of the bores show a clean spot (no carbon build up) near the edge of the pistons. That indicates that it is burning a bit of oil. The only reason I mention this is because, if you get the heads checked, and they need work, you might end up with more load on the rings. More load on rings that are a bit bad already might cause a snowball effect.
That's just me pointing out the worst things I saw.
On the good side, if you can get those valves to seat, and the cam timing correct, you could have it running in no time! :biglaugh:
If you haven't already taken the heads to a machinist, some engine shops would have a vacuum tester that can very quickly test if the valves are seating properly. Might be worth a look.
Good luck! :biglaugh:
I've only just read this thread. There is a couple of points in your description which don't quite make sense, but that is always the way!!
I agree with Seans original diagnosis re the cam timing.
When you said removing the cams didn't help it turn, I thought maybe you had dropped a foreign object down the inlet port. I liked this diagnosis better because it would explain why you could turn the motor to start off with.
I can't think why bad cam timing would let the engine turn for a while and then stop.
A nut dropped into an inlet port might stay out of the way for a few revolutions, and then jam in somewhere. That idea is not likely to bent 2 valves perfectly the same though.
The pictures you have posted show bent exhaust valves. They jammed open because of a tiny bend in the stem.
If you want my 2 cents worth, get those checked out properly.
I couldn't tell if the cam timing was right in those pics, because I can't remember how they go!
I also couldn't see in the pics if there was a witness mark on top of the piston that lines up with those bent valves. (There should be a mark in the carbon where the edge of the valves were hitting.) That would indicate the exhaust cam timing was off.
Also, the pictures of the bores show a clean spot (no carbon build up) near the edge of the pistons. That indicates that it is burning a bit of oil. The only reason I mention this is because, if you get the heads checked, and they need work, you might end up with more load on the rings. More load on rings that are a bit bad already might cause a snowball effect.
That's just me pointing out the worst things I saw.
On the good side, if you can get those valves to seat, and the cam timing correct, you could have it running in no time! :biglaugh:
If you haven't already taken the heads to a machinist, some engine shops would have a vacuum tester that can very quickly test if the valves are seating properly. Might be worth a look.
Good luck! :biglaugh:
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Thanks Bazwell! I could actually see light through one of the valves. It looks as though its not really centered, one side is a little higher than the other. I sent the head off to a buddy at MMI to see what he thinks.
When I first got the bike home I found a ton of oil in the radiator hose, so much so, I bought all new hoses and flushed the radiator. I also replaced the thermostat housing which was cracked. And the water pump. All new. I felt as if there was a head gasket leak to begin with. So this disassembly was definitly something I anticipated happening, plus now I can paint the bike any color I want. Thanks for the advice on the pistons, At this stage in the game I'm only a dozen bolts away from completely disassembling the whole engine. LOL.. Ahhhh, winter in Wittmann,,which by the way was 80 today.
When I first got the bike home I found a ton of oil in the radiator hose, so much so, I bought all new hoses and flushed the radiator. I also replaced the thermostat housing which was cracked. And the water pump. All new. I felt as if there was a head gasket leak to begin with. So this disassembly was definitly something I anticipated happening, plus now I can paint the bike any color I want. Thanks for the advice on the pistons, At this stage in the game I'm only a dozen bolts away from completely disassembling the whole engine. LOL.. Ahhhh, winter in Wittmann,,which by the way was 80 today.
Maybe before you spend to much contact Sean about his motors.
Cracked thermostat housing = water leak.
Water leak = overheating.
Overheating = blown head gasket.
Blown head gasket = oil in water.
But overheating also = collapsed pistons, warped head faces, distorted bores.
Theres me and my worst case scenario again!
Could either be an easy fix, or a f*ing disaster waiting to drain your wallet!
I'd be asking you friend to report back if the head is straight on the face and the cam journals, and if the valve guides are worn. That will give you a better idea of how good the motor will be.
If he's a friend, he might be able to mike up the bores for you too. (for free, I mean :biglaugh: ) See if they are out of round or worn.
Cracked thermostat housing = water leak.
Water leak = overheating.
Overheating = blown head gasket.
Blown head gasket = oil in water.
But overheating also = collapsed pistons, warped head faces, distorted bores.
Theres me and my worst case scenario again!
Could either be an easy fix, or a f*ing disaster waiting to drain your wallet!
I'd be asking you friend to report back if the head is straight on the face and the cam journals, and if the valve guides are worn. That will give you a better idea of how good the motor will be.
If he's a friend, he might be able to mike up the bores for you too. (for free, I mean :biglaugh: ) See if they are out of round or worn.
mymax04
Well-Known Member
Hey does anybody know what this part is? I think it's a circlip. When I look in the service manual, it shows a full circlip, this looks like a half circlip. When I look online at other schematics it shows this as a half circlip. Any ideas on how it's to be installed is appreciated.
Almost have my frame completely stripped of paint. Next is my swingarm, woohooo.
Almost have my frame completely stripped of paint. Next is my swingarm, woohooo.
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one2dmax
Well-Known Member
You have two of those clips. One on each bearing on the ends of the shafts. I put them halfway between one case and the other though all in one half of the case will work fine. Missed your call earlier and need to talk to you about other stuff you may need (like a HD Oiling kit and ARP studs) before we send this batch out.
Sean
Sean
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
I'd consider bracing the swingarm and probably gusseting the frame now that you're at it...
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Just to make sujre y'all are on the same page;
As Sean said there are two of those clips.
The one in the picture is complete all by itself for it's location, i.e. you only use "half a circlip" in each location. Making a total of two "half circlips"
Finally today I got the cams back in. Took me a few tries, even though I had them labeled I. The hardest part was figuring out how to get the slack in the cam chain on the cam chain tensioner side. But once figured out it was only matter of minutes. Cams in chains on, got the slack to the tensioner side, installed tensioner and everything held.
430 degrees later, the front cams were on and that was a wrap for today. About an hour and two beers later, everything seems in time. And the engine rotates. woohoo.
430 degrees later, the front cams were on and that was a wrap for today. About an hour and two beers later, everything seems in time. And the engine rotates. woohoo.
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
Progress for sure!
