Exactrep Fuel Cell

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Bruiser1198

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Even though I am not currently in a position to buy another V-Max I was wondering has anyone purchased and installed the larger {5.2 Gal} fuel cell from them . Seen it the other day and was wondering if anyone took the plunge it . Thanks
 
The stock bias ply tire is like butter on a hot pan. A decent sticky radial will change all that. Of course they'll break loose with some effort too.
 
My head is spinning on a tire response to a fuel cell question. I'm guessing the response above was intended for a different thread?
I suspect he had two windows open to the forum and didn't realize exactly to which one he was posting.
 
Even though I am not currently in a position to buy another V-Max I was wondering has anyone purchased and installed the larger {5.2 Gal} fuel cell from them . Seen it the other day and was wondering if anyone took the plunge it . Thanks
Yea , my brother got me one last year for my birthday, I wished I had never seen it!
That tanks the perfect answer/remedy to my rust bucket tank hands down!
Mine has rusting weld beads in it from the offset clearance work and my frankensteen fuel gauge
sending unit LOL.
If I was confidant I could cut and plastic weld that beautiful tank for my offset I have loved to have it, Cheryl at Exactrep said that it wasn't the type of material that would "weld" anyway.
But yea its a nice tank, very worth the money just to not have the rust issue causing problems with the carbs.
 
I have one, what do you want to know?
Like I said right now I am just looking and planning down the road , does it fit with the stock swingarm ? and I am thinking a 17" rear wheel with a 180/55/17 tire . Works Street Tracker shocks stock length nothing else done . I had the 17" rear wheel before might consider an 18" if it will work with this fuel cell. Thanks
 
Like I said right now I am just looking and planning down the road , does it fit with the stock swingarm ? and I am thinking a 17" rear wheel with a 180/55/17 tire . Works Street Tracker shocks stock length nothing else done . I had the 17" rear wheel before might consider an 18" if it will work with this fuel cell. Thanks
Bigger fuel tank 20.5 litre/5.42 US Gallon for Vmax 1200 all years, works as original, made from VEPE. Smooth,non-paintable surface.

From Exactrep's site

Please take the following into account:
1: The rear shock absorbers must be fully sprung and have at least the length of the original shock absorbers.
2: The rear swing arm should not be higher beneath the tank than the original swing arm. Fits with most OTEC swing-arms.
Please state what kind of swing arm you are using

Fits with all wheels up to 17" x 190 width tyre depending upon any offset.

Only modification needed is to remove approx. 30mm from the front edge of the rear mudguard (as shown on click on).
 
Like I said right now I am just looking and planning down the road , does it fit with the stock swingarm ? and I am thinking a 17" rear wheel with a 180/55/17 tire . Works Street Tracker shocks stock length nothing else done . I had the 17" rear wheel before might consider an 18" if it will work with this fuel cell. Thanks

Fits with stock s/a.
I have 17" Dymags with the bigger tyre and no issues.
Shouldn't be any problems with stock length shock.

It is tiiiight to get into the frame though.

The only problem I had was with aftermarket side panels, one pair I chose wouldn't fit because the tank comes out into that part of the frame and there wasn't sufficient clearance. Found a pair that fitted OK and stock wouldn't be an issue.

One other down side is the lack of bragging rights as no-one can see it. :(

Best bit is that I can do 130 miles + before needing to fill up.
 
* * *

Best bit is that I can do 130 miles + before needing to fill up.

Gotta love the Vmax when you're happy with 130 miles "AFTER" a fuel tank capacity upgrade!

I don't mind the short range on the Gen1, but where it irritates me is on my Valkyrie. On an extremely capable touring mount, I am usually hitting reserve right around or just after 120 miles. At 150, I'm walking. That's fine on a bruiser, but not cool when you're "out there" touring and unsure where the next filling station is - or if it'll be open. I even carry a 1 gallon reserve can inside a saddlebag on trips to the hinterlands. (Got bit in New Mexico once. Never again).
 
130 miles isn't a problem when your knees are only good for 100! :(
I am thinking about getting the Exactrep extra fuel tank.

http://www.exactrep.com/acatalog/-Tour-Star---1.3-Gallon---6litre--Extra-Fuel-Tank-430T.html#SID=11
The install is trivial compared to the internals. This would get me to 100 mile without having to panic. Right now at 75 I am searching furiously for gas. Particularly out on the highway. If it is 10 miles to the next exit and there is no gas at the intersection.......
 
Fits with stock s/a.
I have 17" Dymags with the bigger tyre and no issues.
Shouldn't be any problems with stock length shock.

It is tiiiight to get into the frame though.

The only problem I had was with aftermarket side panels, one pair I chose wouldn't fit because the tank comes out into that part of the frame and there wasn't sufficient clearance. Found a pair that fitted OK and stock wouldn't be an issue.

One other down side is the lack of bragging rights as no-one can see it. :(

Best bit is that I can do 130 miles + before needing to fill up.
How tough was the installation? I'm still a bit amateur when it comes to wrenching, so talk to me like I'm an idiot ;)
 
I' d prefer to talk to you as a reasonably intelligent human being that can read and follow instructions.

The instructions that come with it describe the fitting process and the Haynes manual describe tank removal which (amongst others) includes removing the seat, side panels, silencers, shock absorbers and swinging arm, front section of the mudguard, disconnect the reg/rect. and fuel level sensor and drain the tank.

Sounds a lot but it's mainly just undoing nuts, bolts and screws.

You can now disconnect the remaining tank hardware and the tank.

Getting the new one in is 'fun' as it is a tight fit but a bit of pushing and shoving will get it in.

I can't find my original fitting instructions but seem to recall you have to do a mod to the lower mudguard.

The rest is the reverse of dismantling.
 
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I' d prefer to talk to you as a reasonably intelligent human being that can read and follow inst ructions.

The instructions that come with it describe the fitting process and the Haynes manual describe tank removal which (amongst others) includes removing the seat, side panels, silencers, shock absorbers and swinging arm, front section of the mudguard, disconnect the reg/rect. and fuel level sensor and drain the tank.

Sounds a lot but it's mainly just undoing nuts, bolts and screws.

You can now disconnect the remaining tank hardware and the tank.

Getting the new one in is 'fun' as it is a tight fit but a bit of pushing and shoving will get it in.

I can't find my original fitting instructions but seem to recall you have to do a mod to the lower mudguard.

The rest is the reverse of dismantling.
Doesn't sound terrible, what sort of time investment am I looking at? Any specialty tools needed?
 
I was working on a bare frame when first fitted so can't advise how long it would take.
The time would also depend on your speed of working and facilities. IMO it should take less than a day depending on the number of tea and toilet breaks you need.

No special tools....unless you classify spanners as such. :oops:
 
I installed January of year so havent had the chance to test it out beside ride to the gas station to fill. Pending on the company, there are 2 version 21 and 24 liters. In the other thread, 21 liter is a good fit. I ordered 24 liter and I had to modify and cut the rear fender liner and relocate few things.

gen2 gas tank removal
 
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