Not uncommon to have surface splits not causing leaks. However, since you replaced 'em, one less thing to worry about.Found split rubbers on inlets so they were also replaced.
Have you used starting fluid to spray around the airbox to carburetor bellmouths, the carburetor to VBoost rubbers, and lastly, the VBoost to cyl head connections, where live thin O-rings? I've had the cyl head to VBoost O-ring leak, causing issues. Be sure to replace all four of the O-rings! If the VBoost is coming off, it's a false economy not to replace all four skinny O-rings.
I assume you replaced the sparkplugs? Did you remove the sparkplug caps (they unscrew) from the high-tension wires to check for green corrosion on the wire ends at the sparkplug caps? Trim a bit back on the wires to remove the green corrosion and add a small schmear of dielectric grease on the wire end, and replace the sparkplug cap.
You should be able to let the engine carburetor intakes 'sniff' some starting fluid (you don't need a lot) and it should start. Then you can give the engine short sprays as it threatens to die, to keep the engine running, and hopefully it will begin to run on the fuel pump's supply to the carbs.
Have you tried to see how-much gas comes out of the float bowl drain hoses? The carbs should all pass a similar amount of fuel with the float drain screws open, one at a time. Loosen the screw, turn on the ignition, and see what the fuel flow out is like, Repeat the same trial for each float bowl drain. You're using fresh gas, yes? Replaced the fuel filter? You can find a generic one at your local parts house, bring your old one to compare.
You want to have removed spark plugs in the plug caps and grounded because ignition systems don't like their energy not discharged when it's generated. People usually stop the gas flow and remove and test plugs grounded one at a time to check for spark output.
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