Exhaust without re-tuning?

[Fire-medic]

Coil over plug ignition instead of old-style coils using plug wires from remote coils to sparkplugs. One of our members makes a slick COPs set which is available through Sean Morley/Morley's Muscle (see his banner ad).


http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5427

 

[Bushwacker]

Thank you. I take it these work way better eh?

 

[[email protected]]

Wrong as in there will more tuning to do than what he say's or the adjustment. Please explain what surprises you. My goal isn't to make a race bike here, but a muscle bike should sound like one and these stock pipes just don't do it justice. So Im wide open to idea's.

After reading so many tuning threads it seems most guys get the best performance from smaller main jets (like 150) and maybe a shim on the needle.

Every bike is different so no one can say for sure but that seems to be a common setup that works well

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[Bushwacker]

Good to know thanks so much.

 

[Traumahawk]

Good to know thanks so much.

The reason why you would have to go LEANER with a free flowing exhaust, is because of the CV carbs. Constant Velocity. If you flow more air out (because of the better exhaust) it will PULL more air into the carbs, which in turn will pull more fuel as well. So....a better exhaust will actually richen you up, so thats why you go leaner on the Vmax. The Vmax was actually a little bit rich from the factory, whereas most bikes are lean from the factory.

 

[[email protected]]

Thank you. I take it these work way better eh?

No. COPs don't work way better. They don't add performance.
The OEM coils work just fine for igniting the air fuel mixture pending all parts are in good order.

COPs are a great alternative to the OEM parts if they need replaced. They take up less room and can be easily swapped on the fly.

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[Bushwacker]

So as mabdcmb said above. This is what I will most likely wind up doing? Let me ask you this as well. What is the most efficient way to tune a Max to get it dialed in without a dyno pull every time you make changes? EDR charges about $150 to dyno the bike, so I should probably go there prepared with some jets, needles and shims and whatever else to get it right shouldn't I. What else to take is the question. Get that COP's installed new plugs and what else? LOL...Sounds like I may be upgrading everything just short of a motor rebuild. Which will eventually happen someday as well. Don't want to half ass it and I want it done right so if you guys want to educate me please do. Like where I should start and finish with the tuning. Last thing you all should know is there is a switch on the left side of the bike "see pic below" that I don't exactly what it does. I do know that when I turn it to the down position the RPM's drop to about 800/850 from 1000. It's like it detunes the motor, so I just leave it in the up position where it runs better. Taking it to the shop this Friday to have this old dude that knows these old bikes go through it and give me an eval on whats what with this bike. This way I will know where to start as far as what should get done first and work from there.

 

[Bushwacker]

No. COPs don't work way better. They don't add performance.
The OEM coils work just fine for igniting the air fuel mixture pending all parts are in good order.

COPs are a great alternative to the OEM parts if they need replaced. They take up less room and can be easily swapped on the fly.

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Okay no COP's. OEM good to go.

 

[Fire-medic]

The switch is probably controlling your VBoost, allowing it to open at around 3000 rpm instead of the stock ~6500 rpm.

 

[Bushwacker]

Not sure, but I will find out and let ya know.

 

[Donny Daughtry]

Generally slip-ons don't require any carb carb changes at all....except maybe Super Trapps, but not sure on that.

You can get a full system Marks Performance that has great sound and requires only a needle shim.....very simple, 20 minute job to do all 4 carbs.

Supertrapps are one of the only slip on exhaust that are tunable from the exhaust end.:clapping:

 

[DRWard]

The switch is probably controlling your VBoost, allowing it to open at around 3000 rpm instead of the stock ~6500 rpm.

I agree with Fire-Medic, probably a Vboost switch. You might pull the left scoop and see where the wires from the switch go. Mine has the VBoost module mounted under the L.scoop and plugs in between the factory plugs. Easy to see. On mine it was installed on it when I bought it, hardest part was to figure what each position did. Mine has 3 positions, I think it is factory 6000 Vboost, 3000 or ON all the time, I can't remember now on the last one. I leave mine in factory 6000, runs smoother especially around town.

 

[Bushwacker]

I agree with Fire-Medic, probably a Vboost switch. You might pull the left scoop and see where the wires from the switch go. Mine has the VBoost module mounted under the L.scoop and plugs in between the factory plugs. Easy to see. On mine it was installed on it when I bought it, hardest part was to figure what each position did. Mine has 3 positions, I think it is factory 6000 Vboost, 3000 or ON all the time, I can't remember now on the last one. I leave mine in factory 6000, runs smoother especially around town.

Yeah I'm going to figure out where it goes for sure. Mine only has two positions and I leave it in the up position because it runs best there. Your also right about the factory RPM it is 6000.

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[caseyjones955]

I have a full exhaust and some intake mods, and got her pretty well tuned. Having the OEM 6000rpm Vboost really feels appropriate. It sure gives an extra kick when it opens up. It definitely rampages between 6k and 10k. I have to be careful not to over rev it, it pulls quite happily right on past the red line.

I tried riding once with Vboost open and it didnt feel right, maybe I just wasnt used to it. I'm real happy with the stock Vboost function.

 

[Bushwacker]

I have a full exhaust and some intake mods, and got her pretty well tuned. Having the OEM 6000rpm Vboost really feels appropriate. It sure gives an extra kick when it opens up. It definitely rampages between 6k and 10k. I have to be careful not to over rev it, it pulls quite happily right on past the red line.

I tried riding once with Vboost open and it didnt feel right, maybe I just wasnt used to it. I'm real happy with the stock Vboost function.

See that's my problem and why I'm not sure if it is the V boost because when I hits 6000 rpm and I mean right at 6 it does the same thing it's like it got a kick in its ass and really takes off until you let up. I call it the fun zone. Zoom Zoom. Love this bike man. It's like a ******* freight train going down the road. There be monsters out on those roads and there called Vmax. Moohaha

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[caseyjones955]

From what I've seen general consensus is stock works great. Removal of Vboost was part of the directions for the tuning/jetting kit I installed but I left it alone and it's happy. Fun zone is an appropriate description to be sure.

 

[Bushwacker]

Well you guys hit it right. It's a T-Boost MKII. So my next question is how much of pain is it to get this bike back to stock and dialed in. One problem Im having is I can hardly find a good tech that knows these First Gen bikes. Seems knowone works on anything older than 10 years anymore. Does anyone here know what I have to do to get this max back to stock?

 

[Traumahawk]

Well you guys hit it right. It's a T-Boost MKII. So my next question is how much of pain is it to get this bike back to stock and dialed in. One problem Im having is I can hardly find a good tech that knows these First Gen bikes. Seems knowone works on anything older than 10 years anymore. Does anyone here know what I have to do to get this max back to stock?

This forum is the best way to get your bike back to stock. Your right, techs that are GOOD at working on a Vmax are few and far inbetween.

 

[Donny Daughtry]

Well you guys hit it right. It's a T-Boost MKII. So my next question is how much of pain is it to get this bike back to stock and dialed in. One problem Im having is I can hardly find a good tech that knows these First Gen bikes. Seems knowone works on anything older than 10 years anymore. Does anyone here know what I have to do to get this max back to stock?

The tboost is to open it at 3000 rpm-Normally it is a 3 way switch-one position will open it at 3000rpm-one position will turn it off opening at 6000rpm and the 3rd position is opening all the time.
You have a 2-way switch that should open it at 3000 rpm while on and 6000 rpm while off-the later would be same as stock setting so you could just leave it there to be the same as stock.

 

[Bushwacker]

Humm maybe theres something else going on then. I just took it for a ride to the coast and back over fathers day and all was fine. Made a stop at the coffee shop on the way back not far from my house and when I started it back up I noticed right away something was off. Loss of power and no throttle response. When I crack the throttle it takes a bit for it to catch up and when it does it's still not good. Also, before when I put the switch in the down position it would drop the rpm and be slugish and when I put it in the up position it would up the rpm back to 1k and run good. That's kind of what it's doing now. I just want to get rid of that T-Boost thing and get it back to stock. Once I get it back to stock and I want more power I'll do it the right way.