finaly put it on a Dyno, not good

[gamorg02]

Thank you for the lead Garrett, I was really looking for something cheaper, I just bought my Vmax less than a month ago, exhaust and carb kit shall be soon ordered, you know...
what about the exhaust temperature, could it be used as an indicator or am I getting too cheap

i know dannymax has been looking that route. i can't comment for how reliable it is, and how quickly it changes n such. its a LOT cheaper tho.

as long as u don't have double walled exhaust it might work? not sure i'd ask danny.

 

[adamax]

:wacko: Dannymax had about 500 posts, searching by temperature sensor didn't turn up the desired result. I found the thread about wideband A/F meter. I might as well go for it if I get some extra $$

 

[gamorg02]

i don't think its something danny's publicly discussed yet, i wonder if he'll chime in here?

 

[2stangs69-91]

Ok finaly after the run around for a few weeks I re did the dyno on the exact same dyno with all the stock jetting back in the carb. The A/F was better still dipped to 11.0 around 5800 then was up at around 13.5 at 9000. The operator said the main jet looked realy good but recomended fatter neadles and softer springs to get on the main jet faster. The hp only increased to 106.2 and the tourqe to 68.9. It doesn't seem to be smoking and the exhaust isn't getting the black ring around the end of my cans like it did. I was talking to him after and mentioned to him that simular bikes with the exact same set up make more hp on different dynos. He has been operating motorcycle dynos for 15 years and he suspects that his dyno is reading low he has had numerous bike on it that he thought should make more hp. He planned on dynoing a bike and running down to another shop and checking it on theres to verify. LOL great I told him I was mainly concerned with A/F anyhow because the bike runs great. Someday I will try another dyno to verify hp readings but for now I am just going to ride it.

 

[gamorg02]

HP #'s will be what they are once the a/f is right, u have the right mindset. do u have a pic of the a/f curve.? stage 7 springs will help richen up the midrange, but if its already going rich u'd want stronger needles id' say?

 

[2stangs69-91]

The A/F is not that far off to be causing the HP #'s I belive the Dyno numbers are off. I have ridden with many vmaxes now and the power is there. It is a proven all dynos are not the same . The A/F from 7000 to 9200 is 13 to 1 with a peak of13.8 at 9200 there is not much HP left there with that A/F

 

[Bawls]

lots of people are blessed with an optimistic dyno... I personally have only been to one here in san diego and it is a pessimistic one lol. Everyone there was reading a few hp lower than they normally do. Just remember that every dyno is different and not to sweat it if you don't get the numbers that you want. The A/F mindset is where you need to be so you're definitely on your way. Get that thing to a drag strip and do some Test and tune so that you can see what it's really doing. that'll be a good indication of whether or not it's sick.

 

[Craigster]

Be careful with the Innovate LC-1. They have a horrible failure rate. I knew this before buying mine but figured since the factory forum lambastes the users for not setting the units up correctly I would have better luck. Mine worked for about a month. After that it would not longer let me log data or even access the flash to change data averaging settings.

The factory told me it was bad wiring on my part and that i needed to reread the details on chassis grounding to my car. I told them it was on a dyno and not running inside or off of a car's electrical system. Told them I had a lab grade power supply. I had three and none of them showed excessive ripple. They wanted me to get screen captures to prove my supply wasn't the problem. I went one better and ran it on a battery - zero ripple. Guess what? They blamed my PC. I told them three PC's fail to communicate with the unit. Two of those units had previously communicated and set up the LC-1. Now all three have the exact same failure? I don't think so.

They decided to blame ignition noise, I told them when I configure the unit, I don't have a bike on the dyno so how is that even remotely possible.

They went back to blaming bad grounding in my car.

The begrudgingly accepted it for analysis, to me it worked fine on their test stand and sent it back. Exact same unit that couldn't be configured or communicate with a PC - not even the courtesy of a replacement unit.

Oddly enough both of my $1900 A/F meter controllers still work and they are 7 years old. My EFI-332 controller for the L1H1 NTK sensor is even older and still works too. The poor Innovate LC-1 couldn't make it a month and the manufacturer told be where to put it.

I will never use or recommend an Innovate product to any of my customers. There are too many good alternatives out there.

 

[twistedmax]

I will never use or recommend an Innovate product to any of my customers. There are too many good alternatives out there.[/ whats your bussiness?how about aem uego a/f meter?

 

[TURBOVMAX]

lots of people are blessed with an optimistic dyno... I personally have only been to one here in san diego and it is a pessimistic one lol. Everyone there was reading a few hp lower than they normally do. Just remember that every dyno is different and not to sweat it if you don't get the numbers that you want. The A/F mindset is where you need to be so you're definitely on your way. Get that thing to a drag strip and do some Test and tune so that you can see what it's really doing. that'll be a good indication of whether or not it's sick.

Best advice I've seen yet!

 

[Craigster]

whats your bussiness?how about aem uego a/f meter?

I operate a dyno tuning service. I've had good luck with the ECM - AFM-1000 ($1300.00), and the NTK Powerdex AFX ($300).

I currently use units supplied by Dynostar up through 2005 ($1960 U.S.) and the EFI-332 unit which is an internet unit built on a $13 PCB with $35 worth of components and a $175 L1H1 NTK sensor. They actually track well together with a divergence below 11:1 and above 14.5:1. So for all my 12:1 through 14:1 tuning all three units (two DS and one EFI -332) agree.

I also have a Tech Edge that works well. They do not provide the datalogging software themselves for their widebands, but the prices are fair and the software (3rd party) works reasonably well. I am not using it right now - it's on the shalf as a back up unit in case I have a failure of one of the others.

Sounds crazy, yes? I have two widebands installed on the dyno. That way I always have one as a back up ready to go at the flick of a switch. It also allows me to test true dual exhaust bikes with two individual meters. I also have 5 spare LSU4 sensors on the shelf should either unit lose a sensor due to water striking the ceramic (I never want to be like the stealership down the street and tell a customer we can't tune because we lost a sensor). Then I have the EFI-332 as a third back up with a different sensor for comparison/reference checking and I have a fourth controller and sixth sensor in case the whole world goes to hell.

 

[gamorg02]

ur in newton? how much do u charge for runs? Maybe once i get mine dialed in i can pop up there this spring/summer.

 

[4gasem]

chris got 121 i believe with holeshots and DW jet kit, so thats something to aim for!

122 but who's counting? :eusa_dance:

Mine runs pretty strong. I broke it in a certain way that tends to give more HP.

Chris

 

[gamorg02]

u did 124 i thought?

I also meant chris hansen (vmaxride06) he put a stage 1 DW kit on

 

[4gasem]

u did 124 i thought?

I also meant chris hansen (vmaxride06) he put a stage 1 DW kit on

Yeah I was 122 with Dales kit and 124 with Seans. Peak power was great but I gained a crap ton in the midrange with Seans kit.

 

[Craigster]

ur in newton? how much do u charge for runs? Maybe once i get mine dialed in i can pop up there this spring/summer.

Yes, Newton NH. Right above Amesbury, Ma and next door to Plaistow, NH. I'm not a site sponsor, so I don't want to try to make this an ad. But, I charge $35 for a basic run, $50 for runs w/torque and AFR. And for that money you get enough pulls to show she's stable and not making any more power.

Make sure who ever you go to, you get a good solid baseline before making tuning changes.

I try to get three good runs within 1/2 horsepower of one another. You'd be surprised sometimes how many runs it takes to get numbers stable. 3 pulls doesn't cut it with shaft drive bikes coming up to temp. everything needs to stabilize, tire, rear end fluid and bearings, U-Joint, engine and transmission, pipes. The V-Max is one bike that requires time to do correctly.

I've done as many as 14 to 17 pulls to get a solid base line. Picture this, Your bike makes the following power with every pull: 112, 112.6, 113, 113.8, 114, 113.8 Should I do another run? Most dyno guys give you the first three runs. I found out a long time ago that's just junk. I do another pull and blam 114.5 Do we do another? 115.0 then 114.8, followed by 114.6 followed by 114.9 then 114.7 Now I feel confident that you have a GOOD solid hp reading. Anyway, that's what I call a a base line. At least 3 runs showing that power is no longer climbing.

Anyway, I hope that's informative. Not trying to advertise here, I hope I can get some info out there so folks in California can benefit as well as someone in my back yard.

 

[twistedmax]

craig,
are you familiar with robs dyno service?http://www.robsdyno.com/contact.htm

 

[gamorg02]

Yes, Newton NH. Right above Amesbury, Ma and next door to Plaistow, NH. I'm not a site sponsor, so I don't want to try to make this an ad. But, I charge $35 for a basic run, $50 for runs w/torque and AFR. And for that money you get enough pulls to show she's stable and not making any more power.

Make sure who ever you go to, you get a good solid baseline before making tuning changes.

I try to get three good runs within 1/2 horsepower of one another. You'd be surprised sometimes how many runs it takes to get numbers stable. 3 pulls doesn't cut it with shaft drive bikes coming up to temp. everything needs to stabilize, tire, rear end fluid and bearings, U-Joint, engine and transmission, pipes. The V-Max is one bike that requires time to do correctly.

I've done as many as 14 to 17 pulls to get a solid base line. Picture this, Your bike makes the following power with every pull: 112, 112.6, 113, 113.8, 114, 113.8 Should I do another run? Most dyno guys give you the first three runs. I found out a long time ago that's just junk. I do another pull and blam 114.5 Do we do another? 115.0 then 114.8, followed by 114.6 followed by 114.9 then 114.7 Now I feel confident that you have a GOOD solid hp reading. Anyway, that's what I call a a base line. At least 3 runs showing that power is no longer climbing.

Anyway, I hope that's informative. Not trying to advertise here, I hope I can get some info out there so folks in California can benefit as well as someone in my back yard.

its not advertising if i asked ya! well once we're thawed out i'll get back in touch with ya. good of reason if any for a trip up to NH.

 

[tugla]

its not advertising if i asked ya! well once we're thawed out i'll get back in touch with ya. good of reason if any for a trip up to NH.

+1 hey Garrett i got lots to do to the carbs and also willing to make a ride down there to get V2 on a dyno, think we can get her running way better

 

[gamorg02]

i'd love some company blasting up to NH. last time i did a NH ride i made it with george in about an hour and 10 minutes. it was a 95 mile trip!