Fork movement?

[Poolio]

Installed new progressive springs and new deals with 15w oil. Took for a quick ride today and the front end didn't seem to have much movement. I weigh over 250 and when I grab the front brake and push the bars down when stopped it doesn't seem to go down at all. I'm ok if this is normal, just not sure. I watched Sean's video and followed it down to the letter even made the tool to measure the right
Oil amount. Gonna take it out for a better ride tomorrow and see how it feels. I checked the marks on the forks for movement and it was under an inch they moved for the quick ride I took. But I did pull a few wheelies. It felt nice setting it down and not nose diving

 

[DMAN999]

I weigh about 180 lbs. and I have Progressive Springs with 10wt fork fluid and no air and my forks compress slightly under hard braking (maybe 1") compared to the massive dive (3-4") I had with the soft stock springs.

 

[Poolio]

That's the answer I was looking for. I think the difference between the old worn out ones and the new progressives is so different it's just making me wonder. The new battery even seems to help the bike a lot. I got the apex 12220 and the bike starts different. Almost instant and no need to turn it over a bunch of times. I guess you don't realize how bad some things were until you get new ones

 

[blaxmax]

That's the answer I was looking for. I think the difference between the old worn out ones and the new progressives is so different it's just making me wonder. The new battery even seems to help the bike a lot. I got the apex 12220 and the bike starts different. Almost instant and no need to turn it over a bunch of times. I guess you don't realize how bad some things were until you get new ones

The dive is going to be the biggest difference-less is more--is this the battery you bought? http://www.apexbattery.com/ub1220-12v-22ah-battery.html

 

[MaxMidnight]

To get the best out of them you need to set the static sag.

 

[Specs95t]

To get the best out of them you need to set the static sag.

Good point.

The instructions that come with Progressive springs state as much - cut spacers to size.

When I installed mine, I decided to keep the original metal spacers and removed about 3/4" from original length.

Longer spacers = more initial spring load and firmer front end travel.

Sean Morely also sells fork tube caps that have additional fine tuning adjustment for preloading the springs.

 

[tugla]

The springs do break in after a while and end up at a perfect amount of dip. I also have 15 wt and I found them stiff at the beginning then they seem to settle in.
How much was the spacer sticking out before you put the end cap on, or how hard was it for you to screw the cap? If you needed someone else's help I'd say trim the spacer a little, if you did it by yourself should be perfect amount.

 

[Poolio]

Yes, that's the battery I used and it starts great now. I did put the caps on by myself. It was with effort. I'm gonna give them a week or so of riding and then see how they are. They were both sticking up a little over an inch. 1 1/4 or so. Nose dive is completely gone. Just want to make sure that they're operating correctly and not too stiff and hoppy

 

[Specs95t]

Yes, that's the battery I used and it starts great now. I did put the caps on by myself. It was with effort. I'm gonna give them a week or so of riding and then see how they are. They were both sticking up a little over an inch. 1 1/4 or so. Nose dive is completely gone. Just want to make sure that they're operating correctly and not too stiff and hoppy

I replaced mine during the summer and found that they were hoppy until I bled the air out a few times. Seams like you need to let the new fluid work a little, heat up, etc and then relieve pressure with the top bleed valves.

I ended up going on a shakeout ride without the top plastic caps and a little screwdriver. I'd ride 10 miles and let out any built up pressure and then do the same again 10 miles later.

Surprising that the pressure kept building back up.

Bring a rag with you as you may get a little fluid weeping out during the bleed. Again, this worked well for me on a warm summer day....

The result was less bouncy feel at 35-40 mph.

 

[MaxMidnight]

The springs do break in after a while and end up at a perfect amount of dip.

But the amount of sag is dependant on the weight of rider + kit. A featherweight will cause less sag then (say) a sumo wrestler. Also the riders preference for a softer or harder ride will need to be taken into consideration.

Just 'cos one rider finds the sweet spot this may not be the case for another.

My advice would be not to guess the length of the space but to measure the sag and adjust accordingly. A assistant make the job easier

I replaced mine during the summer and found that they were hoppy until I bled the air out a few times.

Surprising that the pressure kept building back up.

As air heats up it will expand and will raise the pressure within the forks which is normal.
Depressing the Schrader valve will reduce this pressure and I can understand why it would keep building until the temperature of the fork assembly has stabilised.
Air also acts as a spring so by reducing the pressure you are effectively reducing the spring rate of the system i.e. that provided by the spring and air.
I appreciate that the forks will maintain positive air pressure as this forces the seal lips out thus preventing air from escaping.
I'm less sure that it will maintain the negative pressure that will occur as the system cools.

Additionally I have never read of the need to 'bleed' air from forks.

As the above fixed your problem then my gut feel is that you had/ have an issue with static sag, oil volume or viscosity.

 

[tugla]

with being also over 250 i found it took me over a coupke months before the springs got softer but are now perfect. ...i also run the forks down in the triple tree.
i have to mind my notes if i did 1 inch or 1 1 /4 in on my set ups.
regardless you will like them over time....and as mentioned check no air in them seems best or overall concensus on set up.

 

[Poolio]

I'm going to pull the spacers and make sure it's 1". I filled the fluid to the correct level. I did have some pressure in the tubes after riding for 15-20 minutes I bled that off. I also added the super brace. It might just be me and might have to just get used to it. If they are an inch I'm just gonna ride it for a bit and see how she does

 

[MaxMidnight]

I'm going to pull the spacers and make sure it's 1". I filled the fluid to the correct level. I did have some pressure in the tubes after riding for 15-20 minutes I bled that off. I also added the super brace. It might just be me and might have to just get used to it. If they are an inch I'm just gonna ride it for a bit and see how she does

Why does it have to be an inch? If you are heavier or lighter then this measurement will nit dive you the optimum ride.

If you are going to the trouble to measure the spacers then MEASURE THE STATIC SAG first and then adjust accordingly!

 

[MaxMidnight]

Oops! Repeat post

 

[Poolio]

Cut almost 2" off the spacers. Seems good now. The fork moves a lot more and still seems to reduce dive to almost none. I had to drain some fluid too. I filled both sides the exact same amount and one was higher than the other? Must have had trapped air I guess

 

[tugla]

Just curious with the extra two inches you cut off, how much in total did you remove?

 

[Poolio]

Only the 2", didn't cut any on the original install. Bike is still a little stiff. But much better and seems to have plenty of travel.

 

[tugla]

Oh ya without any of the spacer cut it would be stiff....I forget what the instructions say to cut off but I found it works pretty good ...